HOW TO GROW GIANT BAMBOO FROM SEED?

How to grow giant bamboo from seed?

LOOKING FOR GIANT BAMBOO SEEDS? THE CLICK THIS LINK FOR THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' SEED STORE

There are a number of species and even genera associated with the 'Giant bamboo' common name although it is usually the impressive Bambusa arundinacea or Dendrocalamus giganteus which are mostly regularly cited. So, how do you grow giant bamboo from seed?

Once you have obtained your giant bamboo seeds they will need to be pre-soaked for approximately 24 hours in lukewarm water, somewhere about 86 F - 30 C. To maintain this temperature in cooler climates place the seeds in an airing cupboard or other such permanently warm position.

Giant bamboo seeds

For sowing use  a modular seed tray filled with a good quality seed compost or Jiffy 7 Peat Pellets. When using modular seed trays place one seed per module and press to just below the surface. Water in well then place in a heated propagator at approximately 30-35 degrees Celsius with the vents closed. If you have a timer on the thermostat then provide a slightly lower night temperature of 25-30 C.

When using Jiffy 7 pellets, soak them in water first before placing them into in a plastic pot. Sow the seeds on the peat pellets and cover the seeds with a thin layer of peat (about 2 mm). In warmer countries you can put the plastic pot in a zip-lock bag then fill the zip-lock bag with enough water (along with a few drops of water soluble general fertilizer), so that the compost is fully soaked a few mm of water remaining at the bottom of the bag on the bottom. The zip-lock bag can be sealed and no further maintenance will be required until germination. In cooler countries place the pot in a heated propagator set at the above temperatures.

The germination time for bamboo seeds, depending on the species, will be between 10 and 40 days. Once germinated provide adequate ventilation and pot on once the root system has established in is existing container.

In text image credit - Simon Eade

For related articles click onto:
HOW TO GROW BAMBOO IN POTS
HOW TO KILL BAMBOO PLANTS
HOW TO PROPAGATE ABUTILON FROM CUTTINGS
HOW TO PROPAGATE BOX HEDGING PLANTS
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM BAMBOO
HOW TO TAKE CUTTINGS FROM CLEMATIS
MISCANTHUS SINENSIS 'COSMOPOLITAN'
PSEUDOSASA JAPONICA
WHAT IS ELEPHANT GRASS?

WHY ARE MY HOUSEPLANTS DYING?

Why are my houseplants dying?

LOOKING FOR RARE AND UNUSUAL SEEDS? THEN CLICK HERE FOR THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' SEED SHOP

Having worked in the garden centre industry for may years the most often asked question I would receive is this - 'Why has my house plant died?' The second most asked question, if your are interested, was 'do you have a plant that is evergreen, will flower all year round, will quickly grow to 4 ft and then stop at that height?' They would of course be directed to the artificial plant section as such a plant does not exist. Anyway, back to the question as to why are my house plants dying. Usually the reason is the same in 80% of cases, and if the plant has died with a few weeks of purchase then it tends to reach 95%. That reason is too much water, and it is particularly prevalent during the winter and early spring period when most house plants are dormant.

I understand why it happens, people often cherish their house plants like their children. Children require feeding and watering every day and so without instruction the inexperienced house plant enthusiast will treat their prized specimens the same way. This is fine if you are growing tropical marginal house plants such as papyrus or the umbrella palm, but certainly not for all other plants that have not evolved to grow in waterlogged conditions.

Waterlogged houseplants sitting in water

I will explain. The tiny root hairs that grow from the tertiary or lateral roots are just a specialised, single plant cell. And like all plant cells will require oxygen for respiration in order to survive. Plant composts are formulated to have good drainage so as to maintain tiny air pockets within its structure in order to promote a healthy root environment. If the compost is full of water then there are very few air pockets and over time the root hair will die, preventing the plant from taking up live-sustaining water and nutrients. Unable to take up water the plant will begin to wilt, at which point inexperienced house plant owners will water more beginning a never-ending downward cycle of death. As a general rule (and there are exceptions like Saintpaulias)  if you pick up a houseplant and water drips out of the base then it is probably over watered. If you have a thin crust of grey slats on the surface of the compost then you are over watering. If you do not allow the top inch or so of compost to dry out before watering then you are probably over waterings. Be aware that plants will require more water during the growing season (late spring to early autumn) and far less during their dormant period. As a rough guide, water weekly during the growing period and monthly outside of the growing period.

The other reasons which can caused plant death are as follows:

1.Too hot! Do not site your houseplants next to a heat source such as a radiator.

2. Too cold. Tropical plants have no resistance to frosts.

3. Fungal infections. These tend to be secondary infections due to the plant being in a poor conditions, such as being over-watered!

4. Insect infestation - keep your eyes peeled.

5. Too drafty. Cold or hot draughts can shock a plant to drop it leaves. 

6. Neglect, as in not watering enough.

Just one more thing. Never over-water cacti or succulents as they just cannot cope with this. Equally, cacti and succulents do not live in the desert and will require some water to never watering them will also kill them. You need to work out a happy medium. Again, go back to the water weekly during the growing period and monthly outside of the growing period, but about a quarter of what you would give a regular plant.

In text image credit - By Qumarchi - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=108987691

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO GROW AECHMEA FASCIATA
HOW TO GROW FICUS PUMILA
HOW TO GROW STROMANTHE SANGUINEA 'Triostar'
HOW TO GROW THE SWISS CHEESE PLANT - Monstera deliciosa

IS FICUS LYRATA AN INDOOR PLANT?

HOW DO YOU START A 'MOTHER OF THOUSANDS' BABY?

How do you start a 'Mother of Thousands' baby?
LOOKING FOR MOTHER OF MILLIONS AND THOUSANDS PUPS? THEN CLICK HERE TO FIND THE SPECIES AVAILABLE AT THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' SEED SHOP 

The 'Mother of Thousands' ornamental plant, as well as  the 'Mother of Millions', are amongst several species within the Bryophyllum (previously known as Kalanchoe) genus known for their ability to produce baby plants known as 'Pups' along the edge of their leaves. Although not unique, it is because of the Bryophyllum's unusual ornamental quality that many gardeners are tempted to try and propagate these pups in order to produce new plants. So how do you start a 'Mother of Thousands' baby?

Mother of Thousands pups growing on soil surface

You will be pleased to know that it is surprising simple, in fact just allowing a pup to land on some damp compost is enough for one to take root and establish itself as a mature specimen, however this can take several weeks. This process can easily be sped up with a few appropriate horticultural techniques.

To begin which (and to make things easy for yourself), choose as large a pup as possible, preferably with some roots already produced. These large rooting pups usually appear after the parent pant has flowered. Next prepare a 9cm pot, teracota is best but plastic is fine, and fill to 2 cm of the brim with a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seeds and Cutting', or a proprietary cactus compost. That being said they will still root in a standard multipurpose compost of even the dirt found between cracks in the pavement!

While you can just lay the plantlet on the soil surface, it will root quicker if you can place the roots plate in the soil, the secure it on the sides with a small amount of compost. If you have some root on your pup then using a dibber or a pencil create a hole in the soil so that the root can be dropped in without being damaged. Once again, carefully push the soil back against the back of the pup avoiding both the root or roots, or pup. Being extremely careful so as not to dislodge the pup from the soil water in. You may wish to do this with a mister bottle to be on the safe side. Now remember that 'Mother of Thousands' are succulents and as such are drought tolerant. This means that they can be prone to damage from over-watering, especially from late autumn to early spring. Avoid water-logging the compost and re-water one the top centimetre of so is dry.

Once your 'Mother of Thousands' baby has become established in its pot it can be potted on onto one which is larger. Your 'Mother of Thousands' will begin producing its own babies once it has matured.

For related articles click onto the following links:

DEVIL'S BACKBONE - Kalanchoe daigremontiana