Bindweed - Convolvulus arvensis, although more accurately commonly known as the field bindweed, is a pernicious perennial weed common to many gardens and allotments in the south of England. Native to Europe and Asia it is a species of the the morning glory family.
Bindweed root system
It is a climbing or creeping herbaceous vine which left unmanaged can grow to between 0.5–2 metres high. It is considered problematical for two reasons:
1. A single plant can produce up to 500 seeds in one season, and each seed can remain viable in the soil for up to 20 years!
2. The extensive root systems can be several metres long and due to its brittle nature is prone to snapping when weeded. These roots are rich in carbohydrates and proteins and allows it to sprout new growth repeatedly from the remaining fragments.
The mid-green leaves are linear to arrowhead-shaped, and usually between 2–5 cm long. The white or pale pink, funnel-shaped blooms appear from June to August. Each flower is approximately 1.5-2.5 centimetres in diameter, with five slightly darker pink radial stripes and are subtended by small bracts. Once pollinated light brown fruits appear (approximately 0.3 cm wide) containing 2 seeds.
Arguably the best method of controlling bindweed is to use chemical herbicides although this isn't always practical if it is smothering economically or emotionally important plants. Digging out the roots is also a viable method although it will be a repetitive chore that will need to be maintained over several years until the underlying root system becomes exhausted.
To find out more about controlling bindweed click onto the following link: HOW TO CONTROL BINDWEED - Convolvulus arvensis HOW TO GROW CONVOLVULUS SABATIUS WHAT IS BINDWEED?
Main image credit - Bouba - Convolvulus arvensis, 28 juin 2004, Jardin des Plantes de Paris (fr:Jardin des Plantes de Paris) https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en
In text image credit - Simon Eade gardenofeaden@gmail.com
The common name bindweed is unfortunately used for a number of plant, but for the purpose of this article (which relates to the common garden weed - Convolvulus arvensis) the more accurate common name of 'Field Bindweed' will be used.
Closely related to the morning glory family, the field bindweed is a native to Europe and Asia. However, as pretty as its blooms are, the field bindweed is also a pernicious garden weed which if left unmanaged can easily swamp a suburban border and contaminate lawns. It is also notorious for out-competing ornamental species for sunlight, moisture and nutrients and is one of the most serious of agricultural weeds in the temperate regions of the world!
How to control bindweed - Convolvulus arvensis
A single plant can produce up to 500 seeds in a season, with each seed capable of remaining viable in the ground for up to 20 years! However it is arguably the deep, extensive, brittle root system which causes the biggest headaches. Any attempt to hand dig out the field bindweed invariably results in the roots snapping. Even a small section of root can contain sufficient carbohydrates and proteins to allow it to sprout repeatedly following the removal of the above-ground growth.
Organic control of bindweed
It is possible to manage bindweed by persistent digging and hoeing. Over time the plants will weaken and over a couple of years of relentless pursuit it is possible to wear out the root systems. Just remember that dormant seeds will stay viable in the ground for decades and so consider organic control of bindweed as an almost permanent feature .
On allotments, one popular method is to cover the area in old carpet for a year or so as the lack of sunlight to the soils effectively killing off most vegetation.
Chemical control of bindweed
The chemical of choice is Glyphosate. This is a non-selective weed killer which will affect any plant when applied to green growth, so be careful what you spray and avoid windy conditions. The reason why it is the chemical of choice is because it travels throughout the plant's vascular system killing both the top growth foliage and the roots. It also deactivates on contact with soil so that you can replant without the risk of damaging newly planted or sown plants.
In text image credit - Bouba - Convolvulus arvensis, 28 juin 2004, Jardin des Plantes de Paris (fr:Jardin des Plantes de Paris) https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/deed.en
Species and cultivars from the Campsis genus are a little hit and miss when it comes to planting in the cooler climates of northern Europe. However the vigour of the hybrid Campsis x tagliabuana 'Madame Galen', is such that it can be considered hardy, especially in the milder regions of southern England and Ireland. Unfortunately in warmer mediterranean and subtropical climates it can grow profusely with underground suckers, and as such can be considered a bit of a garden thug!
Campsis x tagliabuana 'Madame Galen' flowers
The gorgeous, exotic, trumpet-shaped blooms will bring a touch of the exotic to British gardens, and to get the best out of them plant Campsis x tagliabuana 'Madame Galen' in a sheltered position which receives full sun. The protection of a south facing wall will prove to be best although any solid structure will suffice.
It is a woody, climbing vine with mid-green, glossy pinnate leaves and attaches itself to structures by aerial rootlets. It can prove to be quite vigorous so be aware that under favourable conditions Campsis 'Madame Galen' can grow to approximately 8-12 meters tall, with a width of around 2.5-4 metres.
Plant between November and March in a moist, well-drained soil, previously enriched with well-rotted farm manure or garden compost. In warmer climates, Campsis 'Madame Galen' will perform better in poorer soils.
Once Campsis x tagliabuana 'Madame Galen' has established its root system, it will prove to be surprisingly drought resistant. However watering may still be required during periods of extended drought. After planting, cut the stems of new specimens to 15 cm from the ground, as this will stimulate new growth. Train the strongest new shoots, and remove weaker shoots. After 2 or 3 years, a framework will be established, and you should prune back side-shoots to within 2 or 3 shoots of the main stems.
Unruly mature specimens can be cut back in late winter as the new blooms emerge on new growth.
The incredible, yet stunning looking sago palm is so unusual in shape and design that it almost looks unreal. Both visually and literally prehistoric, species of sago palm can be found across much of the subtropical and tropical regions of the world. However, should you require one for the garden they can be expensive, so growing sago palm seed can be a far more sensible option.
Before you plant up your sago palm seeds, place them into a bucket of water. Mature seeds, which have a bright orange or red color, will sink, while immature or infertile seeds will continue to float. Dispose of any seeds that float as these are unlikely to germinate.
Sago palm seeds
To help encourage successful germination, scrape the outer coating of the seeds with a sharp knife. The seed coat of the sago palm is very hard so scraping it - which is known as scarification - slightly weakens this outer coating, enabling moisture to penetrate into the seed. Wear your garden gloves when performing this activity, as the seed coat is poisonous.
Sow sago palm seeds in large modular trays, or pots, using a good seed compost such as John Innes seed and potting with the seed half out of the compost. Place your newly planted sago palm seeds into a heated propagator an optimum temperature of 70-75F (20-25C), or failing that a warm windowsill out of direct light.
Germination can take 1-3 months, so try to keep the compost moist but not over wet. They are very slow growing at first, and the last thing you want to do is over-water. When you sago palm seedlings are large enough, pot on as required into 5in and finally 8in pots.
Remember that sago palms are not fully hardy and while they are small provide a temperature of 5-10C (40F-50F) throughout the winter. Do not allow them to suffer cold damage as they are unlikely to survive.
Planting sago palm seeds outside
Of course, sago palms are not terribly hardy, even in the southernmost parts of the United Kingdom. However, they can be successfully grown outdoors in both Georgia and Florida.
Select a warm location that does not receive any direct sunlight.
Sago palm seedlings
To begin with, dig a series of shallow furrows into the soil. The furrows should be about 1 inch deep and 18 inches apart.
Place the individual seeds in the furrow. The pointed ends of the seeds should be oriented horizontally.
Space the seeds 12 to 24 inches apart,you will find that this spacing will make it easier to transplant the seedlings later on.
Lightly cover the seeds with soil or sand.
It is not necessary to tamp the soil into place.
Water the area thoroughly, but do not saturate the soil.
Mature sago palms
Continue watering the seed bed on a regular basis, never allowing the soil to dry out completely.
If your seeds are viable they will begin to emerge in three to six months.
Continue to water the the seedlings for another one to two years.
The sago palm is a slow-growing plant and it may take that long before the seedlings develop a root system large enough and strong enough to allow successful transplantation. Once established you should have a stunning specimen which can only improve as time goes on.
You may not be surprised to find out that there are venomous snakes in India, but what may shock you is that India has the highest number of recorded venomous snake bites and fatalities in the world.
There are in fact a reported 250,000 estimated venomous snake bites per year in India. Of that number, it is estimated that there are at least 50,000 fatalities, which means that approximately 20% of all snake bite victims die!
Venomous snakes are both numerous and aggressive, particularly in the rural areas of India. The snake species responsible for the majority of snake bites are known as the 'Big Four'. The Big Four tend to be attracted to agricultural areas, rice paddies for example, where they can find abundant food sources such as rats and other rodent species. Unfortunately, the search for rodents also brings these venomous snakes into populated areas, and on occasion into people's houses. However, the more we know about these snakes, and in particular being able to recognise them and their habits, the less likely it will be that people will be injured or even killed by them.
The "Big Four" of venomous snakes in India are considered to be the following species:
The King Cobra
The King Cobra
The most famous and perhaps the most feared snake in India is the large and powerful King Cobra.
Snake's Description : The King Cobra is uniformly olive, brown or green in colour with rings like cross bands of black.
Although the King Cobra is the largest venomous snake in the world and it has a disposition to go with this honour, it causes relatively few bites on humans.
The King Cobra appears to have a high degree of intelligence, and avoids attacking another venomous snake for fear of being bitten.
King Cobras usually prefer to eat non-venomous species, but if it is too hungry it may attack other venomous snakes like the Common Krait, other Cobra species, and will even eat its own species making it a snake cannibal!
King Cobras can inject more milligrams of venom than any other snake. Its venom is also a powerful neurotoxin, and so if you are unfortunate enough to be bitten by one, death is certain without prompt medical aid.
Snake's Habitat: The King Cobra's habitat includes dense jungle, cultivated land and paddy fields.
Indian Krait
Indian krait
The Indian Krait - also called as the Bungarus - is found in most of the Indian continent. This species also contains a neurotoxic venom that is 16 times more powerful than cobra venom.
Krait venom is extremely powerful and will quickly induce muscle paralysis. Clinically, their venom is predominantly made up of presynaptic neurotoxin which affects the ability of nerve endings to release the chemical that sends the message on to the next nerve.
Snake's Description: The Common Indian Krait is black or bluish-black in colour with white narrow cross bands and a narrow head. It is also the world's No.2 most venomous snake. Its average length is about 90 centimetres, but it can easily grow up to 1.5 meters.
Snake's Characteristics: Kraits are found only in Asia, but the Indian Krait is of special concern to man as it is 15 times more deadly than any common cobra. It is active at night and relatively passive during the day. Unfortunately, native people often step on kraits while walking through their habitats. The krait has a tendency to seek shelter in sleeping bags, boots and tents. Its venom is a powerful neurotoxin that causes respiratory failure.
The Common Indian Krait is most venomous snake of the Indian peninsula which makes it the most venomous snake of India, Sri-Lanka and Pakistan.
Snake's Habitat: Common Indian Kraits habitat include open fields, human settlements as well as dense jungle.
Russell's Viper
Russell's viper
The Russell's Viper is responsible for more human fatalities than any other venomous snake. Not only is it highly irritable, it is also believed to be the world's No.5 Venomous snake. When threatened, the Russell's Viper coils tightly, hisses and strikes with such speed that its victim has little chance of escaping.
The symptoms of the bite are pain at the site of the bite which is immediately followed by swelling of the affected extremity. Bleeding is also a common symptom, especially from the gums. There is also a drop in both blood pressure and heart rate.
Snake's Description: Russell Viper has a light brown body with three rows of dark brown or black blotches bordered with white or yellow extending its entire length which can be up to 1.5 meters. The head of the Russell's Viper is flattened, triangular and is also distinct from the neck. The snout of the Viper is blunt, raised and rounded. Its hemotoxic venom is a powerful coagulant, damaging both tissue and blood cells.
Snake's Habitat: The Russell Viper's habitat varies from farmlands to dense rain forests, and is commonly found around human settlements.
Saw Scaled Viper
Saw scaled viper
The Indian Saw Scaled viper is the smallest member of the Big Four snakes.
Five subspecies of the Saw Scaled viper are currently recognised which range between 40 and 80 cm in length.
The head of the Saw Scaled Viper is distinct from neck, while the snout very short and rounded.
Snake's Description: The colour-pattern consists of a pale buff, grayish, reddish, olive or pale brown ground colour, overlaid mid dorsally with a series of variably coloured, but mostly whitish spots, edged with dark brown. The body is slender to moderately stout, and slightly flattened vertically.
The head is short, distinctly wider than neck and has a light-coloured trident, cruciform or arrow-shaped mark on the head. There is a pale stripe from each eye to angle of mouth. The throat and chin are white, while the topside of the Saw Scaled Viper is buff or tan, to olive brown or chestnut with dark-edged whitish spots along backbone, and narrow, undulating white line along sides.The upper
portions of loops are more conspicuous than lower portions. The underside is white, greyish-white, yellowish-white, pale pinkish-brown, stippled with dark grey. The tail is short, tapers abruptly and is about 10 percent of total body length.
Snake's Habitat: The Saw Scaled Viper is often found near cultivated areas.
Anti-venom's
India and other Asian countries now have much better medical treatment and anti-venom available now compared to previous years, but continue to suffer a high percentage of fatalities due to continued reliance on folk medicine remedies and the length of time needed to get to a proper medical treatment center.
However, snakebites from these four snakes are so prevalent, that a common anti-venom has been developed to treat the bites for all fur.
Lavender is without doubt one of the most popular of all hardy shrubs, and why not? Tolerant of drought, heat, poor soils and most pests and diseases, not only does will lavender flower its heart out, it is a fantastic source of nectar for pollinating insects! However, you can't just plant lavender anywhere and they can easily be killed by too much kindness.
So, just how do you successfully plant lavender?
Lavender
Lavender is a genus of 39 species of flowering plants that are native to Africa, the Mediterranean, South-West Asia, Arabia, Western Iran and South-East India. And this is important because knowing where lavender comes from will allow you to - at least in part - mimic the conditions that they have evolved to survive.
Lavenders flourish best in dry, well-drained, sandy or gravelly soils in full sun. All lavender species need little or no fertilizer and good air circulation. This is particularly important in areas of high humidity as root rot due to fungus infection can be a problem. Avoid organic mulches as this can trap moisture around the plants' bases, again encouraging root rot. Instead, use pea gravel, decomposed granite, or sand instead.
If the flowers are used for drying, pick the blooms when they are showing colour but before they are fully open. Cut the whole flower stalks and hang these, tied in bunches in a cool dry airy position.
Pruning
Lavender - http://plant-passion.typepad.com/
Remove the dead flower stems as they arise and cut back hard straggly plants in August as this will encourage new growth from the base. A light trim to help shape more formal plants can be undertaken in late March or April.
Unfortunately Lavenders will tend to grow leggy with age and if left to their own devices may need to be discarded or replaced after 5 or 6 years.
Pests
When kept in sunny, well-drained conditions lavender are relatively pest and disease resistant. Be that as it may they do tend to be prone to infestations of froghopper larvae commonly known as cuckoo spit. Froghopper larvae can be controlled with an application of a systemic insecticide, or knocked away from the plant with a jet of water.
Rosemary is one of those plants that not only smells good, it tastes good and looks good too. When I say taste, I mean as a flavoursome herb so don't start chomping on a random stem and expect it to fill you with culinary delights, because it won’t!
Be that as it may, rosemary plants are fantastically popular and are often found in gardens as a specimen shrub or informal hedging. Its Latin name, Rosmarinus officinalis, means "dew of the sea" and while rosemary is most closely associated with Mediterranean cooking you don't need perfect sunshine, or a sea mist to successfully grow rosemary.
How to propagate Rosemary from cuttings
How to take cuttings from rosemary
The best time to take cuttings from Rosemary is when the new shoots begin to emerge. Mid to late June is normally the best time. Select a healthy looking plant with lots of new growth on it. If you can, take your cuttings early in the day. Using a sterilised sharp blade or secateurs, snip off non-flowering sections of new growth 10 cm - 15 cm long. To reduce moisture loss, remove most of the lower leaves so you have a clean length of stem and place them in a plastic bag. Seal it and keep it in a shaded spot to prevent wilting until you are ready to root the cuttings.
Using porous terra cotta pots fill with a good quality cutting compost such as John Innes ‘Seed and Cutting’. However, I would recommend improving the drainage by mixing in horticultural grit or perlite at a ratio of 2:1 compost to drainage improver.
Once again, using a sharp sterilised knife, take 7.5cm (3in) cuttings from young shoots either just below a leaf joint or torn off at the stem. Remove the leaves from the lower half of the cutting in order to help reduce water loss.
How to take cuttings from rosemary
At this point you can dip the stem ends in hormone rooting powder to speed up the rooting process, but this isn't really necessary. The rosemary cuttings can now be inserted around the edge of the pot (if the pot is big enough) leaving a 1 ½ inch gap between each cutting. Alternatively, and if your pots are on the small side, plant the cuttings individually.
Water the cuttings from below and allow the compost to settle around their stems. Place pots in a cold frame in a sheltered, shaded area, indoors in a propagator or simply cover with a plastic bag to retain the moisture. Just make sure that the sides of the bag are not touching any of the plant material.
After a few weeks, gently invert pots and check for signs of root development. Mist over foliage and ensure the compost stays on the moist side. Once new growth begins to appear all covers can be removed. Allow the soil to dry out between watering but don't allow the compost to stay dry for extended periods and do not allow the compost to become waterlogged.
Once the rosemary cuttings have a good root system, gently tease the cuttings apart and pot up individually into a loam-based compost, such as John Innes No. 2.
Keep plants watered and pot them on again as they get larger and the roots fill their container. They should be big enough to plant out in the following spring.
The cheetah is one of the world's most beautiful creatures, and as such has been regarded as a coveted prize for royalty for millennia. Ancient Egyptians often kept cheetahs as pets, and also tamed and trained them for hunting. This tradition was passed on to the ancient Persians and brought to India, where the practice was continued by Indian princes into the twentieth century.
It is a native to most of Africa and parts of the Middle East, and is the only extant member of the genus Acinonyx. However, what makes this big cat species truly special is that it can run faster than any other land animal. In short bursts it can reach a top speed of between 70 to 75 mph. The Cheetah also has the ability to accelerate from 60 mph in just shy of three seconds!
What do cheetahs eat?
The cheetah is a carnivore, eating mostly mammals under 40 kg (88 lb). In the wild, cheetahs would usually prey on the Thomson's gazelle, the Grant's gazelle, the springbok and the impala.
However, the young of larger mammals such as wildebeests and zebras are also taken, and adults too, when the cats hunt in groups. On occasion they will also prey on Guinea fowl and hares.
While the other big cats mainly hunt by night, the cheetah is a diurnal hunter. This means that cheetahs usually hunt either early in the morning or later in the evening when it is not so hot, but there is still enough light.
How cheetahs catch their prey
Cheetah sprinting
The cheetah hunts by vision rather than by scent. Prey is stalked to within 10–30 metres, then chased. This is usually over in less than a minute, and if the cheetah fails to make a catch quickly, it will give up. The cheetah has an average hunting success rate of around 50%.
Running at speeds between 112 and 120 km/h (70 and 75 mph) puts a great deal of strain on the cheetah's body. When sprinting, the cheetah's body temperature becomes so high that it would be deadly to continue; this is why the cheetah is often seen resting after it has caught its prey. If it is a hard chase, it sometimes needs to rest for half an hour or more.
The cheetah kills its prey by tripping it during the chase, then biting it on the underside of the throat to suffocate it; the cheetah is not strong enough to break the necks of the four-legged prey it mainly hunts. The bite may also puncture a vital artery in the neck. Then the cheetah proceeds to devour its catch as quickly as possible before the kill is taken by stronger predators.
Cheetah on lookout
On the open Savannas of Iran and parts of Africa, cheetahs are superb examples of specialization - the evolutionary adaptation to very specific environmental conditions. In this case, the specialization is for speed.
Going after impalas, gazelles and small wildebeests, the cheetah is a blur, and the chase is short-lived, typically lasting about 30 seconds. Cheetah mothers spend a lot of time teaching their cubs to chase, sometimes dragging live animals back to the den so the cubs can practice the chase-and-catch process.
When a cheetah overtakes its prey, it knocks it down and takes it out with a bite to the neck. It then eats as quickly as possible. If a lion comes along, the cheetah will abandon its catch - it can't fight off a lion, and chances are, the cheetah will lose its life along with its prey if it doesn't get out of there fast enough.
Conservation
Cheetah with cubs
The cheetah is a vulnerable species. Once widely shot for its valuable fur, it is now at risk from loss of habitat and prey. Once numerous in India, the cheetah became extinct there in the 1950's. Less than 30,000 remain in Africa.
Cheetah cubs have a high mortality rate due to predation by other carnivores, such as the lion and hyena, and perhaps genetic factors. It has been suggested that the low genetic diversity of cheetahs is a cause of poor sperm, birth defects, cramped teeth, curled tails, and bent limbs. Some biologists even believe that they are too inbred to flourish as a species.
It is thought that the species went through a prolonged period of inbreeding following a genetic bottleneck during the last ice age. However, even though they lost most of their genetic diversity thousands of years ago, their decline appears only in the last century or so, suggesting factors other than genetics are mainly responsible.
Breeding
Cheetah with cub
There is no particular breeding season and cheetah cubs can be born at any time of year. After mating the male will leave the female, who rears the young when they are born some three months later.
The cubs are born in a concealed den and are blind and helpless for about 11 days. Once their eyes are opened the mother carries them to different dens every few days. Later, the cubs will follow her of their own accord. This regular moving ensures a clean den and reduces the risk of predators - such as lions - sniffing them out.
The young cubs are weaned at about three months of age, after which they follow their mother to each kill and share her catch. They leave her after 13 to 20 months but reason together as a litter for a few more months. The females are the first to disperse, each taking up residence in a new area. The males stay together, but move away from their birthplace. the cubs are finally mature at 20 to 24 months old.
Habits
Cheetah siblings
Surprisingly, male and female cheetahs have completely different lifestyles. The female can spend up to 20 months looking after each litter of cubs, but she will mainly lead an otherwise solitary lifestyle.
She is not aggressive to other cheetahs, preferring to retreat rather than attack. Neither is she territorial although her range may overlap with other females.
By contrast, males are rarely solitary, living and hunting in an all male group of four or five animals. This group will often comprise of brothers from the same litter, which will generally stay together for life.
Fiercely territorial, each male group scent marks its boundary with urine. Should other males encroach on the territory of an established group, fierce fights will occur, sometimes resulting in the death of an intruder.
Scent is used by females to tell a male when she is receptive, although once the male has picked up her scent the pair will communicate using a series of calls.
Fuchsias are one of the country's favourite ornamental plants. The trouble is, with so many stunning varieties to choose from, it can end up being very expensive if you try and satisfy your every Fuchsia wish.
How to take cuttings from fuchsia
However, all is not lost as you can always consider taking Fuchsia cuttings from the shoots of established plants. In fact, Fuchsia cuttings will root very easily if given the right of conditions.
The trouble is - and I have experienced this myself - is that many growers commonly complain of a high proportion of failure in their their fuchsia cuttings.
So what then, are the secrets to successfully rooting fuchsia?
It is important to take fuchsia cuttings only from plants that are in the very best condition, and the parent plants should have been properly watered a few hours before the cutting are taken. Having removed your cutting it should be inserted into its rooting medium as soon as possible. The next trick is to not allow your cuttings to wilt or that will be the end of it!
How to take cuttings from fuchsia
To achieve this, your fuchsia cuttings should be kept as turgid as possible and this is achieved by keeping them in an area of high humidity.
This can be done by placing your cuttings in a propagator or by covering them in a clear plastic bag. Just make sure the leaves do not touch the edges. They should also be shaded from the sun.
Contrary to popular belief, the use of rooting hormones is not really necessary for fuchsia cuttings especially if the piece of material has been removed from the very tip of the plant. This type of fuchsia cutting is known as a soft tip cutting.
How to propagate fuchsias from cuttings
If you intend to take a decent number of Fuchsia cuttings then it may be worth investing in a heated propagator. By enabling a soil temperature of just 68F (20C) you can expect a quicker and far more successful rooting.
Choose a good quality compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' but consider mixing the compost together with some horticultural grit or perlite to help improve drainage.
How to take cuttings from fuchsia
Green, soft tip cuttings of fuchsias can be taken all year round, but the best time of the year will be the spring when growth is in full spring. The cut on the stem needs to be made above a set of leaves, leaving three sets of leaves above the cut. During the process of taking the cutting, be careful not to damage the stem - wherever possible, handle the cutting by the leaves.
Trim the cutting to immediately below the third set of leaves. Then, carefully trim off the lower set of leaves with a sharp knife, including any small shoots at the leaf nodes.
Take your Fuchsia cuttings as small as possible because these tiny cuttings can begin to root in 10 days or less. Now, gently push the cutting in around the edge of the pot so the leaves are just resting on the top of the compost.
Do not firm down the fuchsia cuttings in the first watering will do that, and make sure you label each cutting if you insert many different varieties in the same pot or tray.
Be aware that once your cuttings have taken root, the most common cause of death of cuttings is over watering drowning followed by fungal disease.
So provide good ventilation and allow your plants to dry sufficiently between watering.
With new, and ever larger flowering varieties being released each year, it's no wonder that Hydrangea species and cultivars are so popular. Unfortunately, owning one of these fancy specimens can come at a price - which is normally expensive! Luckily, Hydrangeas are very easy to propagate and cuttings can be taken at more or less any time of the year so long as the plant is actively growing.
In fact, if your Hydrangea cuttings are taken over the summer, they will root in a matter of weeks! And it couldn't be easier, simply cut off a shoot making sure that your knife is sharp and that the cut made is clean and even.
How to propagate Hydrangeas from cuttings
Hydrangea cutting material
To begin with, remove a section of new growth 5 to 6 inches long with your sharp knife. You can recognize the new stem growth on a hydrangea as it will be a light green.
Remove the lower leaves at the bottom two leaf nodes. This is where the root should form. Remove all leaves except for the two at the top, then cut these top leaves in half crosswise.
Dip the base of the cutting stems into a rooting hormone to help encourage root growth. Follow the directions on the manufacturer's label for correct usage.
Place each stem into a separate pots containing a well drained potting compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Potting'. However it is well worth improving the drainage further by creating a 2:1 mix of compost and horticultural grit/perlite.
Water the pots until the water runs freely from the drainage holes. The soil should now be moist but not soggy.
If you only have large pots at your disposal then you can place more than one per pot, but they will need to be potted on at a later date.
Striking hydrangea cuttings
Once the pots have drained, place them into a covered propagator or - failing that - cover the pots with plastic bags.
Make sure the leaves do not touch the plastic.
Leave the cuttings in a shaded location, and only when the soil is dry. The cuttings should root between two to four weeks.
Propagation Tips
Place cuttings in bright light, but never in direct sun as they can overheat and die. Do not water the cuttings until top of soil feels dry to the touch. Remember though that over watering will cause cuttings to rot. Overwinter Hydrangea cuttings under protection as they are unlikely to survive extreme temperatures in their first year.
There is nothing even close to a specimen banana plant to bring that exotic, tropical feel to your garden. And now, with ever hardy varieties becoming available, the reality of growing a banana all year round - without cold protection - is becoming more of a reality. Unfortunately, suitably hardy bananas can be both elusive to find and expensive, but if you decide to grow hardy bananas from seed all this can change.
Growing Hardy Bananas from Seed
Banana seeds
Hardy banana seed can be sown at anytime of year so long as you can break its seed dormancy. To achieve this, soak the seeds for 24 hours in warm water before planting.
Using either a seed tray of modular tray, fill with a good quality seed compost such as John Innes ‘Seed and Potting’. Then using a dibber – or an old pencil as in my case - sow the hardy banana seed ¼in deep. Backfill the hole with a little more compost then water thoroughly. Allow the excess water to drain then seal the tray inside a polythene bag in order to keep the compost moist. Now place the tray in a warm area while the seeds germinate. Be aware that germination is slow and erratic and even at a temperature of around 28 degrees Celsius banana seeds can take 1-6 months to germinate.
It is worth mentioning here that most banana seed will respond well to fluctuations in temperature. If you have both the time and the facilities, consider give your seeds alternating temperatures of 19 hours cool and 5 hours warm. You will find that some species will respond well to larger fluctuations of temperature – between 35 degrees Celsius and 15 degrees Celsius, while others are better with less severe fluctuations 25 Celsius – 15 Celsius or even 20 Celsius -15 Celsius. However, do not go much below 12 degrees Celsius as this can place your hardy banana seed back into dormancy.Perhaps the easiest way to produce your fluctuating temperatures is keep your seeded trays in a heated propagator. Switch it on during the day and turn it off at night. If your night temperatures are too cold then have the propagator on a night and turned off during the day.
Banana seedlings
Tropical species of banana will do better with a constant temperature between 20 and 35 Celsius - depending on the variety. Fresh seed will always be the best, although it has been known for banana seed to germinate at room temperature after being stored for 2 years! There are still a lot of unknowns with regards to germinating banana seeds, but the following research may be of help to you.
At a germinating temperature fluctuating between 35 – 15 Degrees Celsius. The banana species listed below had the following success rate:
Musa Helen's Hybrid 21% M. Sikkimensis 23% M. Sikkimensis Red tiger 0% M. flaviflora 3% M. Formosana 4% E. Glaucum 1%
At a germinating temperature fluctuating between 25 – 15 Degrees Celsius. The banana species listed below had the following success rate:
E. Glaucum 24% M. Sikkimensis Red tiger 30% M. Sikkimensis 34% M. Helens Hyb. 11% M. Flaviflora 7% M. Formosana 0%
At a germinating temperature fluctuating between 21 – 15 Degrees Celsius. The banana species listed below had the following success rate:
M. sikkimensis 3% M. Sikkimensis Red tiger 27% E. glaucum 18% M Helens Hyb. 30% M. flaviflora 15% M. Formosana 2%
How to grow banana plants from seeds
It should be noted that further germination will occur so long as you have the patience to wait for it – including the difficult Musa Formosa which eventually germinated about 50% of all seeds sown.
As each seed germinates, lift carefully from the tray so as to prevent any damage to the juvenile root system, and transfer it to a 3 in pot of good quality, free draining compost. Pot on as required because the larger the container the larger your banana plant will grow.
Grow on in warm well lit conditions. During summer they can be stood outside or planted in the border but should be brought into well lit frost free conditions for the winter when it should be kept moderately dry. Some discolouration of the leaf ends may occur through the winter months but this won't harm the plant.
For related articles click onto the following links: BANANA PLANTS
Tomato blight is a disease caused by a fungus-like organism which spreads rapidly in the foliage and fruit of tomatoes - typically in wet weather, causing them to collapse and decay.
In particular, it is a serious disease outdoor tomatoes, but not as common on tomatoes grown in greenhouses.
Blight is specific to tomatoes and potatoes, and some ornamental relatives of these two crops are also susceptible. Cases have been recorded on some ornamental Solanum species as well as bedding Petunias.
Symptoms of Tomato Blight
What is tomato blight?
The initial symptom of blight on tomatoes is a rapidly spreading, watery rot of leaves which soon collapse, shrivel and turn brown. During humid conditions, a fine white fungal growth may be seen around the edge of the lesions on the underside of the leaves. Brown lesions may also develop on the stems. If allowed to spread unchecked, the disease will begin to attack the fruit. This is recognised by brown patches appearing on green fruit. If infected, the more mature fruits will decay rapidly.
How to Control Tomato Blight
Perhaps the biggest problem with blight on tomatoes is with its cousin the humble potato. With the majority of potato varieties being highly susceptible to this virulent fungus, the late summer air is full of pathogenic spores just waiting for a suitable host plant to infect. It's Unfortunate that the closely related tomato plant more than readily fits the bill.
This can be a particular problem with tomatoes, especially when grown outside in the more temperate regions of the country. With the late cropping of most true outdoor varieties – and even later cropping if glasshouse varieties are grown outside – the ripening fruit will often coincide with the seasonal incidence of ‘Late Blight’. If the late summer season is particularly hot and humid, your tomato crops will probably stand little hope of survival and your years worth of work can end up as another pile being burned at the local incinerator.
What is tomato blight?
Because infection is so dependent on specific combinations of temperature and rainfall, periods of high risk can be predicted accurately. To find out when your tomatoes are at their greatest risk it is worth contacting your local horticultural advisory service. You will be able to access these warnings (visit the Potato Review website), but because this information is more for the commercial grower you must rely on a more restricted range of protectant fungicides containing copper (Bordeaux Mixture or Fruit and Vegetable Disease Control), as the more effective systemic products will not be approved for amateur use.
As a safety net, when wet weather is forecast from June onwards, begin applications of protectant sprays as a matter of course.
