HOW TO STOP CHRISTMAS TREES FROM DROPPING THEIR NEEDLES

How to stop Christmas trees from dropping their needles

 For most people, the thing they tend to worry about most with a cut, live Christmas trees is how long the needles are going to last before they either fall off, get trampled around the house or get stuck in the soles of your feet. The trouble with cut trees is this, over half of a Christmas tree's weight is down to the water inside it. So when its roots are cut off for sale, the tree is no longer able to replenish the water it loses through evaporation and transpiration - the emission of water vapour in plants.

A Christmas tree will lose water naturally through its needles, but without roots it will be unable to replace that which is lost. Once this water loss reaches a critical level the trees natural defence system will kick in and it will try to shed as many needles as possible before it dies of dehydration (desiccation) in an attempt to save itself.

Bare Christmas tree

There are techniques you can use that will slow their water loss down, and this will prolong the time that the needles will stay on the stems and branches, but you need to start treatment as soon as possible after the tree has been cut.

The problem that occurs here is that most trees you buy would have had their roots removed a week or two earlier, sometimes more, before they even reach a shop, and each shop generally stops buying new stock during the second week in December. By that time, and particularly if the weather has been warm, they would have been drying out for a week or two and will probably be dropping leaves as soon as they are out of their protective netting. If you are the type of person who looks for a bargain just one or two days before Christmas day then you really are going to get what you pay for.

With all trees slightly differing some are worse for drying out than others, but with a little attention, you can maintain the quality of your display trees until the twelfth day itself. Check out our top tips for Christmas tree care.

How to prevent a Christmas tree from dropping its needles

How to stop Christmas trees from dropping their needles

1. The first thing to do with your chosen tree is to make a fresh cut 1-2 inches back from the base, quite often this is a service that your retailer will provide, but you may have to ask first.

Try not to bruise or dirty the cut surface otherwise you may need to give it another cut when you get home

2. Once you return home place the fresh cut into a container of water as this will allow some uptake of fluid back into the plant. If you intend to put your tree up in the home straight away, then your choice of Christmas tree stand then become important.

There are many on the market now that come with an in-built reservoir. I would advise purchasing one to keep your tree in peak condition. Remember to keep it topped up though as you will be surprised at how much water it will use. If you intend to wait before you decorate your tree then it will probably be best for your tree to leave it outside in the cold. The colder it is the less water will be lost through evaporation and transpiration.

How to stop Christmas trees from dropping their needles

3. With regards to Christmas tree stands make sure that it is of a suitable size for your tree. If you think that you can get away with a smaller size you will end up having to whittle away its base to make it fit.

By doing this, you will be removing the cambium layer responsible for water intake. This negates the point of having a stand with a reservoir. Your tree is also more likely to fall over!

4. Use small LED or low voltage lights as they will produce little or no heat. Larger lights will warm up where they touch the branches causing water loss.

5. If possible, keep your tree in a cool room, out of draughts and direct sunlight as this will all help in reducing water loss. If this isn't possible then remember to keep your tree away from direct sources of heat such as electric or open fires.

WARNING! Pine sap can be highly volatile if accidentally ignited, and if a tree catches light you can lose more than just your prized Christmas ornaments, you may end up losing your home! Remember the the longer the tree has been without roots, the drier it becomes and this increases the risk of it all going up in flames!

How to stop Christmas trees from dropping their needles

6. Finally, the oldest trick in the book. Spray the underside of you tree with hairspray as this will block the stomatal pores in the needles that allow water to escape.

Unfortunately this will also make your tree more flammable, although nowadays you can buy cans of Xmas tree 'needle-fast' spray. You generally find them next to cans of Christmas tree pine fragrance - perhaps the most ridiculous product on the market today as it can end up making your room smell like a 1970's toilet!

For related article click onto the following links:
CAN I GROW A CHRISTMAS TREE FROM SEED?

CAN YOU REPLANT A CHRISTMAS TREE?
CAN YOU REPLANT A CUT CHRISTMAS TREE?
CHRISTMAS COOKIE RECIPE
Christmas Tree
HOW TO GROW A CHRISTMAS TREE
HOW TO GROW A CHRISTMAS TREE FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW THE WOLLEMI PINE
HOW TO STOP CHRISTMAS TREES FROM DROPPING THEIR NEEDLES
HOW DO YOU STOP A CHRISTMAS TREE FROM GROWING?
MERRY CHRISTMAS - FROM WHERE I LIVE
THE HISTORY OF CHRISTMAS

HOW TO GROW ROSES FROM SEED

How to grow roses from seed

Growing roses from seed is not the quickest way to propagate roses but it can be the most rewarding. It is also the best way to hybridise roses in order to create brand new varieties. Of course there will be disappointments as some of your seed won't germinate at all, and annoyingly you will always lose a certain percentage of  seedlings to damping off disease.

Unfortunately, once you get your seedlings to a size where they will bloom you will need to prepare yourself for yet more disappointment. Why? Because some of your creations will be as ugly as sin, while others will be just plain boring! However the point of all your work will become as clear as a lead crystal goblet as one of your rose seedlings may turned out to be something quite special!

When do you harvest rose hips?

Ripe rose hips

Once the fruit (rosehip) has fully formed, wait four months before harvesting the seed. Some rose hips would have turned orange, red or yellow to prove that they are indeed ripe, but others can stay green even when over ripe.

You can open the rose hips as soon as they have been collected or you can store in a fridge for  up to four weeks before opening.

To open, slice the rose hips in half with a knife, then remove the seeds. the pulp and outer shell can be thrown away


Growing Roses from seed

Once your rose seed has been collected, soak them overnight. Then in the morning, discard any seeds that are floating as these will produce either weak seedlings or not germinate at all. Strain the seeds of and then - wait for it - place into a blender with some more fresh water. Turn the blender on to LOW and whizz for a few seconds in order to remove most of what is left of the pulp. You may lose a few seeds here but you can always skip this step - especially if you are short of seed.

Dried rose hips

Alternatively you can clean the pulp from your rose seeds by spreading them out on a clean cloth or towel and scrubbing over them with a suitable brush. Be aware that this can end up being quite a lot of work.

From this point, professional rose grows tend to chill their seeds from between six to ten weeks before planting as this will encourage germination. If you leave them in any longer, is has been known for rose seeds to germinate in the fridge!

The most popular method of refrigeration to place your clean, seeds onto a piece of good quality, damp paper towel. Fold the paper towel over a couple of times and then place into a sealable plastic bag. This can now be left in the salad compartment of your fridge.

When and how to plant rose seeds

Rose seeds collected as late as November - and possibly as late as December and January in warmer climates - can be planted as soon as they are retrieved. However, if they have been chilled then they can be sown in early spring. If there is a risk of frost then this will need to be done under protection.

Rose seedlings

Using a compost mix of 1:1 John Innes 'Seed and Potting' compost and horticultural grit or perlite, plant your rose seeds 1/2 inch deep into small, individual pots or a large shallow seed tray. Now water in with a soluble seedling fungicide such as Benlate.

Allow the soil to drain off then move the pots/tray into a warm and sunny position. Place a clear cover - such as a sheet of glass or perspex - over the the pot or the pots/tray and place in a cool yet sunny position. If there is no risk of frosts then the containers can be placed outside into a cold frame.

Keep the soil moist and after six weeks or so your rose seeds should begin to germinate. As soon as you seed the seedlings emerge, remove their clear cover. If the seedlings are in a cold frame then the lid can be left open during the day - don't forget to shut it at night. The seedlings will continue to sprout while the weather is cool but growth can be arrested if the young plants get to warm!

Once the rose seedlings are a few inches tall then can be potted on either into 3/4 inch pots, or if you are feeling brave then can be planted directly into a prepared bed outside. From there it will take just three years to reach maturity.

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WHY DON'T WE VALUE OUR FOOD ANYMORE

Why don't we value our food anymore?

Those of us who still have children in secondary school will know what I mean when I say that children look ‘different’ to how they used too when I was at school – and I don't mean the mullet haircuts, or any other dodgy 80’s fashion statement.

Why don't we value our food anymore?

During the 1980’s the girls looked like supermodels (most of them), and the boys were generally athletic with a few skinny geeks thrown in. I remember in my year at school that there was also one fat kid – but compared to fat kids nowadays he was more well-built than anything else (and, as skinny as I was, he still beat me a tennis on a regular basis).

And here lies the difference. In my minds eye, all the children who were at school with me were thin, but in today’s reality most of the children seem to be fat – depending in which part of the country you live in.

So what has changed? Well with the advent of modern technological advances our children spend much of their free time either on the computer, watching TV or playing computer games. And while a more sedentary lifestyle is certainly a major contributing factor to childhood obesity, our 21st century diet has a lot to answer for too. You may be surprised to read that the American Academy of Pediatrics (AAP) suggests that older kids should not watch more than 1-2 hours of TV or video per day, and that kids under age 2 not watch any television at all!

WHERE IT STARTED TO GO WRONG - THE TV DINNER

Why don't we value our food anymore?

We live in an age of consumerism, where lifestyle and possessions are how we measure success against our peers. But with the high cost of property, foreign holidays and the periodic expectation of a new car, the pressure on a single income family is usually too much to achieve, so for the modern dream to become a reality the ‘double income’ family has become the only viable option.

And here lies the problem. With both partners out at work - and usually too exhausted to become involved in housekeeping when they are at home - cooking becomes an inconvenient and time consuming activity when most hard-working folk just want to relax in front of the Telly. Why go to the bother of shopping for individual items, which then need to be prepared and then cooked when you can pull out an easy ready-meal from the freezer. If you really want to push the boat out then you could always buy a takeaway. And remember; think of all the washing up you would be saving on.

Take a look back to the 1950’s 60’s and 70’s when cheap processed food was all about burgers, fish fingers and a tin of beans. Imported food was still expensive and the ‘all year round’ availability of fresh produce was a thing of the future. With most homes having just the one bread winner ‘mother’ had time to cook and prepare ‘proper’ meals. Food was valued because it most of it was only available for short periods during the year (its natural harvest season) and it was expensive – in fact the cost of food shopping during these decades represented an average of 25% of the family budget! At the beginning of the 21st century this has dropped dramatically to an average of just 10%. How many times do you remember being told to ‘…finish you plate because there were starving kids in Africa...’

Food just wasn't wasted because – quite simply – it was too expensive. You ate what was put in front of you and you didn't leave the table until it was gone.

WHY IS TODAY DIFFERENT?

Why don't we value our food anymore?

The vast majority of our population is isolated from how our food is produced, but perhaps worst still, they are ignorant of where our food comes from or how it is processed.

There is the old joke of asking a city based school children.

“Where does your milk come from?”

Only to receive Tesco or Sainsbury’s as a reply. The very thought of milk coming from a cow generally give an air of disgust but nowadays it is not so much a joke as a serious concern.

Our culture is obsessed with making food cheaper and cheaper – devaluing one of our most precious commodities. In addition, the food that we do put in to our mouths is usually manipulated to taste better than it actually is. The question is would we actually eat it if it wasn't processed. The answer is probably - No!

Processed ready meals can contain a range of trace chemicals ranging from insecticides and fungicides, to colorants and preservatives. Unfortunately the downside of 'lack of taste' and 'flavour' often coincides with a significantly reduced nutritional value, but not to worry as this is replaced by Mmmmm - flavoursome fats and sugars, often with a heavy sprinkling of salt. Is this a healthy option or just a convenience option?

But surely the farming industry in this country is heavily regulated to make sure that the food we produced is of the highest standards. It is, but many companies buy their food from countries where production methods are less regulated and therefore cheaper.

The business practice of Bernard Matthews - a well known producer of turkey based products - is a good example. The company imports turkeys from countries with 'cheaper' production costs. However, by processing these ‘foreign’ turkeys into twizzlers or burgers etc in this country they can be legitimately sold as a British product.

Why don't we value our food anymore?

Unfortunately importing cheaper foods can have additional risks such as bird flu. Bernard Matthews made the headlines in 2007 when claims were alleged that lethal bird flu may have been brought into Britain on a lorry load of their imported turkeys from Hungary.

The effects on our bodies of a diet high in processed food are well documented. High blood pressure, obesity, increased incidences of cancer and heart problems. Whereas a diet containing a high proportion of organically grown fresh produce eaten raw or properly cooked show substantial health benefits.

The condition of your body has a direct correlation to the quality of food that you put into it. Ask yourself this question.

Do you want your children to eat the best quality food, or food that is produced at the cheapest possible cost where its quality – or your children’s health - is not a factor?

WHAT IS A HEALTHY DIET?

The food standards agency states that a healthy balanced diet contains a variety of foods including plenty of fruit and vegetables, plenty of starchy foods such as wholegrain bread, pasta and rice, some protein-rich foods such as meat, fish, eggs and lentils and some dairy foods. It should also be low in fat (especially saturated fat), salt and sugar.

Of course there is one way that can guarantee that your food has been locally grown and produced without being sprayed with a cocktail of insecticides, molluscicides and fungicides. The answer - Grow you own!

Quite simply, it all comes down to this simple and rather obvious statement.

‘IF YOU VALUE YOUR BODY, VALUE YOUR FOOD!’

Why don't we value our food anymore?

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ASPARAGUS SOUP

Asparagus soup

If you love making home soups, but get a bit disappointed with the flavour sometimes – then you are going to love this one. I never intended to use this site for recipes but this soup is so full of flavour I just had to publish it.

This recipe for asparagus soup is about as simple as it can get, but it isn't just a gourmet starter, try it cold straight out the fridge on hot days too. All you need to do is add a touch of lemon juice - Serves eight.

Asparagus spears

INGREDIENTS

800 g asparagus with the woody ends removed
50g of salted butter
2 medium onions
2 sticks of celery
2 leeks
1 tablespoon of plain flour
2 litres of chicken or vegetable stock
150ml of double cream or crème fraiche
1 tablespoon of lemon juice – for serving cold soup only
sea salt, freshly ground black pepper and a sprig of thyme

Remove the tips from the tops of the asparagus and put these to one side for later. Next, roughly chop the asparagus stalks. Heat up a saucepan, adding the butter. Chop the onions, celery and leeks then add to saucepan – gently fry for around 10 minutes until they are soft and sweet. Keep the temperature in the pan low to prevent the onion from colouring.

Sprinkle the tablespoon of flour over the mix and then stir it in so that it can soak up the juices.

Now add the chopped asparagus stalks and stock and simmer for a further 20 minutes with a lid on the sauce pan. Remove from the heat and puree the mix until it is silky smooth using either a hand-held blender or in a liquidizer.

Season the soup bit by bit - this is important - with salt and pepper until it tastes just right.

Finally, stir in the double cream or creme fraiche and the reserved asparagus tips. Re-heat gently for 3-4 minutes until the tips have softened and serve very hot in warm soup bowls garnishing with the sprig of thyme.

If you are serving this dish cold then thoroughly mix the tablespoon of lemon juice into the soup. Cool and chill thoroughly before serving in chilled bowls.

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WHAT IS AN ORCHID?

Despite their exotic sounding name, orchids occur in almost every range of habitat apart from deserts and glaciers. The great majority are found in the tropics, although there are a few species that can be found above the Arctic Circle. They are also one of the largest plant families on the planet consisting of over 25,000 species – second only to the aster family ‘Asteraceae’.

What is an orchid?

Although its name may sound exotic, the word orchid comes from the Greek word Orchis – meaning testicles! This unfortunate label arrived because it described the two rounded tubers that were commonly found on many of the native European orchid species.

As you can imagine orchids come in many different shapes and colors. The characteristics that they all have in common however is that the male and female parts of the flowers (the stamens and pistil) are fused together to form the column.

Other characteristic include the arrangements of the flower. There are three similar petals and three petals. The third petal - known as the lip or labellum – is different to the other two and usually the most eye- catching. The lip has evolved to attract the pollinators which – depending on the species – can include ants, bees, wasps, gnats, butterflies, moths and even birds!

All orchids are classed as perennial herbs and lack any permanent woody structure. They can grow according to two patterns:

Monopodial: The growing stem is formed from a single bud, with the leaves being produced at the apex of the apex. As more leaves are produced, the stem grows longer accordingly. The stem of orchids with a monopodial growth can reach several meters in length, as demonstrated by examples in the Vanda and Vanilla species.

What is an orchid?

Sympodial: The plant produces a series of adjacent shoots which grow to a certain size. Once in bloom the shoot will stop growing, however the orchid will continue to grow in size by producing a new shoot. Sympodial orchids grow will laterally rather than vertically - following the surface of their support. The growth continues by the development of new leader’s which have with their own leaves and roots. These will be found sprouting from - or next to - those of the previous year, as noted in Cattleya species. While a new lead is developing, the rhizome may start its growth again from a so-called 'eye' - an undeveloped bud found at or near the base of the plant.

Although many orchid flowers are indeed spectacular, most varieties produce seeds are in fact tiny – approximately 0.5 mm in diameter, although some species can produce seed as big as 5 mm!

While the seed produced is generally small, orchid plants make up for this in sheer quantity of seed produced- so much is produced that it can look like thousands of dust particles floating on the air!

Strangely for such a successful plant, the seeds of many orchid varieties cannot germinate or grow on their own. Research has shown that these seeds have a symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationship with specialist fungi so that they can receive the nutrients required to germinate. This is because the seed lacks an endosperm - the tissue found in other seeds which provides nutrition in the form of starch.

Advances in horticultural production techniques have now advanced to such a point that they are able to germinate far more seeds than would otherwise happen in the orchid’s native habitat. This is why orchids are now commonly available in supermarkets and retail plant centers.

For related articles click onto the following links:
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SCHOMBURGKIA EXALTATA
THE BUTTERFLY ORCHID - Psychopsis papilio
THE FLYING DUCK ORCHID
THE ORCHID MANTIS
WHAT IS AN ORCHID?
WHY IS THE SKY BLUE?

HOW TO GROW COMFREY

How to grow comfrey

For any gardener who wishes to grow their plants by using strict organic principles, modern fertilisers can often be a bit of a sticking point. However, help is at hand from the native European herb Comfrey – otherwise known as ‘Knitbone’ as it was once used as a traditional remedy to help heal broken bones.

Comfrey has a naturally deep rooted and extensive root system and acts as a dynamic accumulator by extracting a wide range of nutrients from deep within the soil. These nutrients naturally accumulate within its fast growing leaves - up to 4-5 lbs per plant when cut.

How to grow comfrey

Because comfrey leaves lack fibrous tissue they can quickly break down returning their nutrients to the soil surface making them more readily available to cultivated plants. In addition there is little risk of nitrogen being ‘locked up’ during decomposition when comfrey is dug into the soil as the carbon to nitrogen ratio of the leaves is lower than that of a well-rotted compost. Comfrey is also an excellent source of potassium - an essential plant nutrient needed for flower, seed and fruit production. In fact comfrey leaves contain 2-3 times more potassium than most farmyard manures.

To begin growing your own comfrey you are best off using the cultivar known as ‘Bocking 14’, a special strain which was developed during the 1950s by Lawrence D Hills - the founder of the Henry Doubleday Research Association. Bocking 14 is sterile, and therefore will not set seed (an advantage over other cultivars as it will not spread out of control). Because of its sterility, this cultivar is normally propagated from root cuttings of offsets from the parent plant.

To produce your own ‘offsets’, it is best to choose mature, strong healthy specimens with no signs of disease - such as rust or mildew - to act as the parent plants. Drive a spade horizontally through the leaf clumps about 3 inches below the soil surface. This will remove the crown, which can then be split into pieces. The original plant will quickly recover, and each new offset can be replanted with the growing points just below the soil surface. Once established these offsets will quickly grow into new plants.

TIP. When dividing comfrey plants, take care not to spread root fragments around, or dispose of them on a compost heap. Each piece can easily re-root, and comfrey can be a very difficult plant to get rid of.

Comfrey will prefer to be planted in full sun although it will tolerate partial to near full shade. It is not so keen on thin, chalky soils, but you can give it a helping hand by dig deeply to break up the subsoil. Light sandy soils will benefit from organic matter, and being a fleshy plant it will require a decent amount of watering.

Comfrey will grow very densely and can be difficult to weed, so before planting, dig the soil over and remove any perennial weed roots. Luckily, it will tend to shade out most weeds once established. To get your comfrey off to a good start it is also well worth adding well-rotted farm manure or garden compost before planting – just fork it into the top 6 inches of the soil.

Do not cut in the first year, but once established you can harvest the foliage four to five times a season. Harvest by cutting the plant down to about 2 inches once the plants has reached at least 2 ft in height.

For related articles click onto the following links:
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HOW TO GROW COMFREY
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HOW TO MAKE LIQUID FERTILIZER FROM COMFREY

WHAT ARE MYCORRHIZAL FUNGI?

HOW TO MAKE LIQUID FERTILIZER FROM COMFREY

How to make liquid fertilizer from comfrey

For any gardener who wishes to grow their plants by using strict organic principles, modern fertilisers can often be a bit of a sticking point.

However, help is at hand from the native European herb Comfrey – otherwise known as ‘Knitbone’ as it was once used as a traditional remedy to help heal broken bones.

Comfrey has a naturally deep rooted and extensive root system that acts as a dynamic accumulator by extracting a wide range of nutrients from deep within the soil.

These nutrients naturally accumulate within its fast growing leaves - up to 4-5 lbs per plant when cut.

Rich in nitrogen, comfrey is also an excellent source of potassium - an essential plant nutrient needed for flower, seed and fruit production. In fact comfrey leaves contain 2-3 times more potassium than most farmyard manures.

Making a liquid feed from comfrey is relatively simple. In fact, it can be no more difficult that adding comfrey leaves to a bucket of water.

They will need to be weighed down to keep the leaves submerged, but wait 3 to 5 weeks – depending on how warm the weather is – and you will have a wonderfully rich liquid feed by the end of it.

How to make liquid fertilizer from comfrey

Although the comfrey solution is already mixed with water it is worth diluting it down further to prevent damage to the root systems of plants that it is applied to. Consider diluting the solution at a rate of one part concentrate to 3 parts water.

Unfortunately, liquid fertilizer made from comfrey stinks to high heaven so you may wish to use a more sophisticated system for its production. A small water barrel would be ideal as it will come with a lid (to keep the smell in) and a tap at the base so that the liquid fertilizer can be drained off when needed without the risk of splashing the foul smelling solution over yourself!

TIP. Consider placing the leaves into an old sack before submerging as this can help to prevent taps from being blocked.

Alternatively – and far cheaper than the cost of buying a water barrel – is to use any a large plastic container that comes with a lid. Drill a hole - ¾ inch in diameter - in the bottom of the container and then place it on a stack of bricks. Position a wide-neck bottle under the hole, and then after a couple of weeks you can expect to see a dark liquid trickle out of the container and into the bottle. Once collected, the liquid can be stored in a cool, dark place.

The nutrients in this liquid are highly concentrated and will need to be diluted with water before it can be applied or it can damage the root systems of any plants you try to feed it to. The liquid must be treated as a concentrated liquid feed, so dilute it at a rate of one part concentrate to 10 parts water. This solution can be applied at every watering should you require.

For related articles click onto the following links:
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HOW CAN YOU IMPROVE CLAY SOILS
HOW TO GROW COMFREY FROM SEED
BBC; HOW TO MAKE LIQUID FERTILIZER FROM COMFREY
ORGANIC CONTROL OF CATERPILLARS
Sacrificial Planting
THE IMPORTANCE OF LOG PILES TO NATIVE WILDLIFE
WHAT IS A GREEN MANURE?

HOW TO SOW AND GROW ZUCCHINI FROM SEED INDOORS

How to sow and grow zucchini from seed indoors

Although considered to be a vegetable, zucchini - otherwise known as a courgette - are actually the immature fruit of a marrow squash – more specifically, the swollen ovary of the female flower. Zucchini can be yellow, green or light green, and generally have shape similar to a ridged cucumber, although there are a few cultivars available that can produce a rounded or bottle-shaped fruit.

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Like all summer squash, zucchini can trace their ancestry back to the American continent, however the varieties of squash typically known as ‘zucchini’ were actually developed in Italy - many generations after their introduction from their country of origin. The first records of courgettes in the United States date back to the early 1920s - almost certainly brought over by Italian immigrants.

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How to sow and grow zucchini from seed indoors

In order to achieve an early crop - and yet have protection against late, spring frosts - zucchini can easily be started off indoors. Zucchini seed can be sown anytime from mid March through to late May. Using a good quality soil-based compost such as John Innes ‘Seed and Potting’, fill 3 inch pots to within ½ inch of the top of the pot. Sow two seeds per pot – on their sides - placing each seed ½ an inch deep.

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Temperature is important when it comes to germinating zucchini seed and so once they have been watered in they will need to be placed in a warm, bright position at a temperature of between 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Alternatively they can be placed in a heated propagator.

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Once the seedlings emerge, the weaker one can be removed from each pot. Harden off the young plants by putting the first sowing into cold frames at the end of May. Plant them out after about two or three weeks once the risk of late frosts have passed.

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Remember to water the pots well before planting out, and avoid holding the plants by their stems as they are easily bruised causing irreparable damage.

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If the weather is cool, cover each plant with a cloche for the first week or so, to give them a little extra warmth and protection. Alternatively, use half of a clear plastic 5 litre mineral bottle. Cut the bottle into two halves in order to make two excellent cloches. The top half - whilst giving good protection against the weather – will also allow air and moisture to circulate through the neck of the bottle.

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TOP TIP. To prevent flying insects entering through the neck of the bottle, cover with a small piece of fleece and secure it in place with an elastic band.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO CONTROL POWDERY MILDEW ON COURGETTES
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HOW TO GROW COURGETTES IN CONTAINERS
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HOW TO GROW ZUCCHINI FROM SEED INDOORS
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WHAT IS A MARROW?

RECIPE FOR PARSLEY SOUP

Recipe for parsley soup

If you love making homemade soups, but get a bit disappointed with the flavour then you are going to love this one. I never intended to use this site for recipes but this soup is so full of flavour I just had to publish it.
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Recipe for parsley soup

If I kept it to myself I would be almost doing the entire world a dis-favour. I say almost because you need to be in a climate where you can grow plenty of parsley. If you are buying parsley from the supermarket, the quantity required can make this soup quite expensive, especially if you make it as often as I do! Even so it will be worth it.
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If I am being honest, I have eaten almost every batch of parsley soup entirely by myself - the very same day! Worse still, one time I didn't tell the family I made it so that I could scoff the lot. I am so bad, but so is this soup - in a Michael Jackson way of course.

However, my addiction to parsley soup might be due to a peculiar palette. Either way - I LOVE THIS SOUP!

.SERVES 6 - OR JUST ME!

.INGREDIENTS

25g (1 oz) unsalted butter
1 large onion
1 clove of garlic – not absolutely necessary but it does make a difference, plus it’s good for the heart!
3 celery sticks
150g (6 oz) fresh parsley (don't be fooled by the weight - this is a lot of parsley)
4 tsp plain flour (for thickening)
900ml (1 1/2 pints) vegetable or chicken stock
Salt and pepper
A heaped tablespoon of double cream
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PREPARATION

Recipe for parsley soup

Finely chop the onion and garlic and then slice the celery. Chop the parsley roughly, discarding any long or thick stalks.

Gently melt the butter in a large saucepan and as soon as it starts to simmer add the onion, garlic, celery and parsley. Cook until the ingredients have softened, then stir in the flour.

Cook for a further minute or two – stirring the mix at all times - before adding the stock.
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Simmer for 25 minutes, then allow to cool slightly before you purée the mixture with a blender.
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Reheat, add salt and pepper as required, then add the cream before serving in a heated bowl with a sprig of parsley.

Taste test first, then decide whether you should tell anyone else you made it. I hope that you enjoy this recipe for Parsley soup as much as I do.

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HOW DO HIGH NITRATE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?

How do high nitrate levels affect fish health?

Fish which are kept by enthusiasts are usually held in a closed body of water such as a garden pond or fish tank.

Unfortunately, these relatively small volumes can create something of an ‘unnatural’ environment – often unsustainable without human intervention. This is because toxins from the fish, uneaten fish food and pollution from the general environment can – over time - build up in concentrations which are harmful to your fish’s health. In an open system of water such as the ocean or a river, levels of toxicity can be diluted but the introduction of new or fresh water or they can be absorbed safely by aquatic plants, algae and bacteria as part of their normal metabolic processes.

How do high nitrate levels affect fish health?

One of the more problematical toxins that are found within a closed system is nitrate. To be sure whether nitrate levels are toxic to your fish you will need to purchase a nitrate testing kit from your local aquatic specialist. You may need to research the appropriate nitrate level tolerable for your specific fish.

Most popular fish will be happy in nitrate levels less than 100 ppm, however more sensitive species will require a lower level otherwise they may succumb to nitrate poisoning - particularly if levels remain high. The resulting stress will leaves fish more susceptible to disease and inhibits their ability to reproduce. For all intents and purposes levels it best that levels stay below the 50 ppm mark.

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SYMPTOMS

Fish with nitrate poisoning will often appear very sluggish. Their gills will be opening and closing rapidly and they will often be found swimming at the surface of the tank ‘gasping’ for air. Occasionally you will be able to notice brown or yellowish discolorations of the gills.

Higher or prolonged exposure to high levels of nitrate will show signs of loss of appetite, fish resting on the bottom, a bent or curled positioning of the body, crooked spine, uncontrolled swimming or swimming in circles, spasms or twitching. Usually at this point the fish is unlikely to survive!

For related articles click onto the following links:

HOW DO HIGH NITRATE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?
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HOW DO HIGH NITRITE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?

How do nitrite levels affect fish health?

Nitrite is formed when Nitrosomonas sp. bacteria oxidize ammonia. Although it is less toxic than ammonia, elevated levels will still present a threat to fish health. Prolonged exposure at low levels can lead to stress and is often associated with stress-related disease such as bacterial ulcers and fin-rot. At high levels, skin and gill epithelia can be damaged and opportunistic bacteria and parasites may take advantage of stressed fish.

How do nitrite levels affect fish health?

The main danger is from nitrite being actively transported across the gills and into the fish’s bloodstream where it oxidizes normal hemoglobin into methemoglobin. Normal haemoglobin picks up oxygen at the gills and transports it to the body tissues where it is exchanged for carbon dioxide. Methemoglobin cannot transport oxygen and therefore - in acute cases - fish will be effectively asphyxiated.
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At low levels of Nitrite concentrations you may find fish rubbing against solid objects. As levels increase fish will become lethargic, but may still swim up to feed. If the fish is suffering from nitrite poisoning, the gills will change from a healthy pinkish/red to a pale tan to dark brown in colour. The fish may also show signs of respiratory distress, i.e gasping at the water surface or hanging around water inlets.

HOW TO REDUCE HIGH NITRITE LEVELS

The first and perhaps the easiest way to reduce nitrite levels is to perform a partial water change of no more than 25%. Make sure that the temperature of the new water is as approximate to the contaminated water as possible and add a suitable dechlorinator if your new water is obtained directly from the mains water supply. It is advisable as part of your normal maintenance to perform partial water changes once every 2 – 4 weeks.
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How do nitrite levels affect fish health?

With an aquarium you could consider using a siphon gravel cleaner to perform your water changes as you will be able to remove any natural waste products - uneaten food, fish poo, rotting vegetation – that could be responsible for high nitrite levels from the bottom of the tank at the same time.

Look at the amount of food that you are feeding your fish. Overfeeding is an easy and quick way to spoil your water quality. Always use a good quality food and feed no more than you fish will eat within 60 seconds. If any food is left after feeding – remove it!

Keep your filters in tip top condition by following the manufacturer's maintenance instructions.

Consider adding live plants to your pond or aquarium as a natural way to remove nitrites form the water. However, sickly or dying plants will be contributing to the problem so make sure that they are removed on sight.

For related articles click onto the following links:
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HOW TO SOW AND GROW WATERMELON FROM SEED INDOORS

How to sow and grow watermelon from seed indoors

Watermelons have been grown for their deliciously sweet flesh for over 3000 years.

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Believed to have originated in southern Africa, the popularity of this fruit has seen it spread across the globe. History tells us that by the 10th century AD, watermelons were being cultivated in China, which today is the world's single largest watermelon producer. By the 13th century, Moorish invaders had introduced the fruit to Europe; and, according to John Mariana's The Dictionary of American Food and Drink, 'watermelon' made its first appearance in an English dictionary in 1615.

Direct sowing into the ground is the best way to grow watermelons from seed but for those of us who live in cooler, northern European climates, you will need to start your melon seed off indoors. This gives the resulting seedlings a fighting chance to produce and ripen their fruit in a much shorter growing period.

Sowing Seed Indoors

How to sow and grow watermelon from seed indoors

.Sow the seeds indoors around the middle of March into either 2-3 inch pots or large, modular seed trays. Use good quality loam based compost such as John Innes ‘seed and potting’, and avoid the temptation of using standard seed trays because you will want to disturb the root system as little as possible. You may wish to add a little extra horticultural grit or perlite to you compost mix as this will help with the drainage.

Melon seedlings will require plenty of water to ‘fuel’ their vigorous growth, but you don't want to attract fungal infections through over-watering. The extra drainage will help to reduce this.

Fill the pots/modules to between half and three quarters full, then using a dibber - or something similar - make a hole in the compost about 1 inch deep – one hole in each container. Now place 2 - 3 melon seeds in each hole, cover with compost and gently water in. To help with germination they will need to be moved to a warm sunny windowsill, preferably above a radiator. Allow the soil to become almost dry before further watering.

After a couple of weeks the seed will begin to show signs of germination. As mentioned before, young melon plants will require plenty of water and nutrition to grow, so feed them regularly with a 50% strength liquid fertilizer. Just make sure that they are never left waterlogged otherwise root damage and fungal infections can occur. At this time you can remove the weakest seedling so that only the strongest remains.

Once the threat of late frosts are over the melon seedlings can be planted outside into their final position but they will need to be hardened off for at least a week or two beforehand. They will do best in a sunny, protected position with a slightly acid soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5.

Remember that because of their origins Melons are cold-sensitive so keep an eye on both air and soil temperatures before planting out. They will prefer growing temperatures of between 70° and 80° F, but if cold weather does threaten the young melon plants would do well to have some kind of protection such as a mini polytunnel or cloche. If practical, they would benefit from being planted into a temporary cold-frame which could be removed during the heat of the summer.

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WHAT CAUSES POND WATER TO GO FROTHY?

What causes pond water to go frothy?

Froth or foam appearing on the surface of pond water will generally sound alarm bells in the heads of most fish keepers, and rightly so. Its unsightly, man-made quality is a clear sign that there is a water quality problem; even though the main body of water can remain clear and the fish appear perfectly healthy.

Even so, frothy or foamy water should always be regarded as a warning sign which – if left unresolved - can lead to a worsening water conditions which will eventually result in health problems for your fish!

Most ponds with a waterfall or fountain have some foam or froth from normal water agitation and this is perfectly natural. However, as soon as the foam begins to accumulate and spread across your pond, it is time to take action.

What causes pond water to go frothy?

There are a number of reasons why this foam can form, but the most common is due to an excess of dissolved organic compounds and notably phosphates. These compounds can arrive from a number of sources including overfeeding, a build-up of fish waste, or decaying plant material. They are also likely to indicate rising levels of ammonia, nitrates and nitrates which at critical levels can become deadly to your fish.

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Phosphates occur naturally in living and decaying plant and animal remains, and as mineralized compounds in soil, rocks, and sediments. Within a pond the most prominent sources of phosphates will be uneaten fish food, decomposing fish, animals and their feces. In small amounts, phosphorus may not seem a bad thing as it can produce a boost in plankton and algae, enabling fish to grow larger and faster. However, in larger amounts, phosphorous can make aquatic systems so productive that they can choke themselves out!

While rising levels of phosphates may not be an immediate and serious problem in itself, they are usually closely linked to organic compounds which are. The clue is in it how the phosphates have entered the water which - as mentioned before – is through the breakdown of uneaten fish food, decomposing fish, animals and their feces. This decomposition links directly to the nitrogen cycle where ammonia, nitrite and nitrates are produced, all of which can have a toxic effect on your fish.

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What causes pond water to go frothy?

Ammonia
Ammonia is extremely toxic and even relatively low levels pose a threat to fish health. Ammonia is produced directly from the fish via its gills, decomposing fish food, fish waste and detritus, but in a natural environment - such as a lake or river - it would be immediately diluted to harmless levels. However, in the confines of a pond, ammonia levels can rapidly rise to dangerous levels unless it is constantly removed, usually by biological filtration.

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Nitrites

Nitrite (NO2-) is formed when Nitrosomonas sp. bacteria oxidise ammonia. Although it is less toxic than ammonia, elevated levels will still present a threat to fish health. Prolonged exposure at low levels can lead to stress and is often associated with stress-related disease such as bacterial ulcers and fin-rot. At high levels, skin and gill epithelia can be damaged and opportunistic bacteria and parasites may take advantage of stressed fish. The main danger is from nitrite being actively transported across the gills and into the fish’s bloodstream where it oxidises normal haemoglobin into methemoglobin. Normal haemoglobin picks up oxygen at the gills and transports it to the body tissues where it is exchanged for carbon dioxide. Methemoglobin cannot transport oxygen and therefore - in acute cases - fish will be effectively asphyxiated.

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At low levels of Nitrate concentration you may find fish rubbing against solid objects. As levels increase fish will become lethargic, but may still swim up to feed. If the fish is suffering from nitrite poisoning, the gills will change from a healthy pinkish/red to a pale tan to dark brown in colour. The fish may also show signs of respiratory distress, i.e gasping at the water surface or hanging around water inlets.

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Nitrates

Nitrate is considerably less toxic than nitrite, although nitrate levels should not exceed 50 mg/liter.

For related articles click onto the following links:
Causes and Solutions of Foamy Pond Water
HOW DO HIGH NITRATE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?
HOW DO HIGH NITRITE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?
HOW TO ATTRACT WILDLIFE INTO THE GARDEN WITH A POND
HOW TO MAINTAIN AND LOOK AFTER A HEALTHY POND
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