The Garden of Eaden: August 2011

AUTUMN FLOWERING PLANTS

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In most countries, spring and early summer are the normal flowering times for the majority of plants and for good reason too. How else would they be able to fit the time in to produce their fruiting bodies and seeds in time for autumn? Why autumn? Well, many of the seeds from cooler, temperate regions require a dormancy period before germination can occur. This dormancy period is usually broken by a period of cold weather, followed by warmer, wetter weather ensuring that germination occurs at the most suitable time. This enables the juvenile plants to make use of the longer warmer days for effective photosynthesis and gives them an entire year to grow, store energy as carbohydrates, and prepare for the following onset of winter.

Unfortunately this natural cycle of growth, flowering and seed production means that - for the ornamental gardener - gardens look a little worse for wear once the summer comes to an end, but with a little investigation there are plants from warmer climates that are ‘tricked’ into flowering at the wrong time of the year. This is because plants from warmer regions need certain triggers in order to initiate flowering. This can be day length, average day temperatures, average night temperatures, seasonal rainfall, light intensity, the list goes on. In cooler regions many of these triggers occur much later on in the year which is why there warmer climate plants flower later in cooler climates. Unfortunately they tend not to be able to produce fruiting bodies or viable seed before the colder temperatures of winter arrive. This can make it more difficult for propagation but for most gardeners this isn’t a factor when they come to choose their late summer/autumn flowering plants.Below is a list of some of the best late summer/autumn flowering plants.

ANNUALS

Gazanias – this is an easy choice. Not only are they drought tolerant but they just keep on flowering – so long as the sun is out. All you need to do is remove the old flowers and periodically feed them with a liquid or water soluble fertilizer.

Mesembryanthemum – same as the above, flowering from June to September. Again, all you need to do is remove the old flowers and periodically feed them with a liquid or water soluble fertilizer.

Nicotiana – this plant species contains a large group of colourful cultivated varieties ideal for use in bedding schemes. However do not over look the tall gracefulness of the dramatic Nicotianan sylvestris. Ideal for the boarders and in flower from June to October.

PERENNIALS

Agapanthus – a stunning plant from South Africa ranging in colour from pure white to the deepest blue, a must for any garden. Although some species can flower as early as late spring try to keep to A. Praecox and its hybrids which – in Northern Europe – will flower form July until August or September. Perhaps the best known are the popular Headbourne hybrids.

Canna lilies – These highly attractive plants are fantastic for bringing a touch of the tropic to the garden. Exotic flower are borne from July and can last up until November or at least until the first frosts arrive. Popular cultivars include the impressive ‘Lucifer and Tropicanna’.

Crocosmia species - Yet another exotic looking group of late flowering plants from South Africa. There are a number of very popular colour variations within this family notabley 'Lucifer' and 'Emily McKenzie'. They will survuive all but the most severe winters so long as they are planted in a well drained soil and are also excellent as cut flowers.

Dahlias - A good traditional choice that is coming back into fashion. Easy to grow and although considered to be half hardy can often overwinter if given extra protection and kept on the dry side.

Helianthus - the sun flower. Although these are a familiar sight during the main part of the summer the species H. Salicifolius will flower far later showing in September and October.
Helenium autumnalis – As the name suggests this hardy perennial will flower from August through to October. Its cultivars come in a range of colours from a sunlight yellow to a burned red. Easy to grow for a stunning effect.

Hemerocallis – sneaking in just at the end of summer, Day Lilies give a fantastic show in a range of stunning colours.

Phlox paniculata – A superb late flowering, and easy to grow specimen boarder plant. Although its white form is perhaps the most striking there are plenty of good colour variations available.

Rudbekia – A striking plant that has gained huge popularity in recent years. There are a large number of suitable specimens and cultivars within this family almost all of which are easy to grow and are even suitable for cut flower arrangements.

Verbascum - This contains a large family of plants many of which are reliable show stoppers, adding height, structure and a profusion of colour to summer borders. Popular varieties include V. ‘Gainsborough’, and V. ‘Cotswold Cream’ but there are many new varieties coming onto the market. Flowering lasts for up to three months from early to late summer - June to August in northern Europe.

BULBS/CORMS

Colchicums – Commonly known as the Autumn Crocus or Naked Ladies – because they come into flower without leaves – colchicums can give a fantastic display from September to October. Although colchicums look like crocuses, they are actually members of the lily family. The most popular is C. 'Waterlily', and is perhaps the most common of all colchicums whose double pink blooms wouldn't look out of place floating on a pond. Raised almost a hundred years ago in a Dutch nursery, this variety is free-flowering and extremely easy to grow – often already flowering in the bag when purchased. There are a number of forms available but keep an eye out for C. agrippinum as it is one of the most distinctive. If you take closer look at its flower you will find that overlaying its pale pink petals is a deeper chequering, like the pattern found on snake's head fritillaries.

Cyclamen – there are a number of good alpine cyclamen available such as C. Coum, C. hederifolium and C. Neopolitan but with our milder winters it is possible to successfully overwinter the more floriferous bedding species such as Cyclamen persicum which – if allowed to harden off – can apparently tolerate temperatures down to -7 degrees Celsius, but they must be grown in a free draining soil.

Schizostylis coccinea 'Major' – These eye-catching kaffir lilies provide a well needed late splash of colour when many of the summer flowers are coming to an end. Best planted in full sun, they are also perfect for a sheltered, moist but well-drained border. They also make excellent cut flowers.

For more information click onto:
Autumn Flowering Plants
Drought Resistant Plants and Gardening
Hardy Exotic Plants for that Tropical Garden Effect
How to Choose Plants for Hot, Dry Sunny Borders
How to Grow Bananas Outside in the UK
Nectar Rich American Wildflowers for Attracting Native Bumble Bees
Plants for Dry Shade

Photo care of http://gardenerstips.co.uk/blog/flowers/growing-tips-for-rudbeckia/ and http://www.gardenvisit.com/nursery/pennard_plants and http://wwwrockrose.blogspot.com/2009/04/gazania-glory.html and http://www.allabouthappylife.com/wallpapers/exotic_flowers_wallpapers/wallpapers_exotic_flowers.html and http://www.thepoisongarden.co.uk/atoz/colchicum_autumnale.htm and http://www.biolib.cz/en/taxonimage/id1566/

WHAT IS THE WORLDS BIGGEST SHARK?

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There is a unique fascination about sharks that seems to grip both young and old alike. Whether its their cold, bloodless eyes, or their ability to sense prey from the slightest drop of blood, there is something about a sharks ruthless ability to hunt down and attack its prey that captures the imagination. While the smaller sharks can do an excellent job of looking mean, its the larger ones that you need to keep an eye one - especially if they rip you in half with a single, playful bite!

Of course the bigger the shark, the more scary it is - just look at the film 'Jaws', but what is the worlds biggest shark?

Well, if you are looking at an all time record you will need to go back in time 28 to 1.5 million years ago. There - during the the Cenozoic Era - you could meet the largest ever predatory shark, the exceptionally dangerous Carcharodon megalodon. This utter beast of a shark is estimated to be around 16 m (53 ft) long, with a mouth approximately 2 m (6 ft) wide.

Today the worlds largest living predatory shark is the infamous 'Great White' shark, with the biggest individuals known to have approached or exceeded 6 metres (20 ft) in length, and 2,268 kilograms (5,000 lb) in weight

It is one of the primary predators of marine mammals as well as a variety of other marine creatures including fish, pinnipeds, and seabirds. It is now the only known surviving species of its genus, Carcharodon, and is ranked first in a list of number of recorded attacks on humans.

STRAWBERRY JAMS

CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN’ WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP

Want to buy strawberry seed? Click here to view seed shop.

I remember as a child eating home made strawberry jam at my Nana's house on the Isle of Wight. Grandad grew the strawberries while Nana made the jam - and it was superb. Beautifully sweet jelly with great lumps of fleshy, succulent strawberries. I never tasted better, and as I have grown older I began to miss the tastes and flavours of my youth as they brought me so many happy memories. Shop bought strawberry jam - no matter how rustic they looked or expensive they were - just weren't up to standard, so I made a bold decision. I made my own strawberry jam from this years home grown strawberries. Was it a succcess? Well now, whenever I eat it I always think of summers spend in my grandparents garden. So for me, the jam was perfect!

How to make strawberry jam

This recipe for strawberry jam is so simple, in fact there are only four ingredients:

1kg /2lb 3oz strawberries
1kg/2lb 3oz granulated sugar or caster sugar
½ lemon, juice only
a small knob of butter

You have a choice depending on how much strawberry jam you intend to make and how much time to have. If you have the time then you can prepare your fruit immediately before use, but if you like you can prepare the day before. Hull and halve the strawberries, then check for for any soft spots as these must be removed. Discard any strawberries that are bruised or overripe.

Place the strawberries into a large bowl with 500g/18oz of the sugar. Turn carefully to mix and coat the strawberries well. Now cover with cling film and place into the fridge overnight.

When you are ready to make your strawberry jam the next day, place a saucer into the freezer to chill - you'll need this when you come to test the setting point of the jam.

To begin with, it is worth sterilising the jam jars before you make the jam. To get them as clean as possible first wash the jars in hot, soapy water and rinse in clean warm water. Allow them to drip-dry, upside down, on a rack in the oven set to 140C/275F/Gas 1. Leave them there for at least half an hour while you make the jam.

Alternatively, once the jars have been washed in the hot water, fill them to half full with your hottest water from the kitchen tap, then top up to the brim with boiled water. Now place in a microwave and full power them for 1 minute. Leave them there until they are ready to be filled with jam.

Pour the strawberries, their juice and any residual sugary juices into a very large pan or preserving pan, remembering that the mixture will rise as it boils, also add the remaining 500g/18oz sugar and the lemon juice.

Stir over a gentle heat until the sugar has completely dissolved.

Bring the strawberries up to the boil then boil hard until the jam reaches setting point. Check the setting point every ten minutes, although it may take up to half an hour to reach setting point.

To test the setting point, remove the pan from the heat. Take your saucer from the freezer and place a drop of jam onto the cold plate. After a few seconds push the jam with your finger.

If the jam surface wrinkles then it has reached setting point and is ready. If it slides about as a liquid, then it hasn't reached setting point and should be returned to the heat and boiled for a few more minutes before testing again.

When setting point has been reached, turn off the heat. Stir in the butter and skim off any scum on the surface of the jam with a large spoon.

Let the jam cool and thicken in the pan for ten minutes, so that the strawberries don't all sink to the bottom in the jam jars.

Carefully remove the sterilised jars from the oven or microwave with oven gloves. Empty the water if necessary but when moving the jars around, try to avoid touching the insides of the jars with the oven gloves as this may introduce unwelcome bacteria.

Stir the jam, then ladle it into the sterilised jars. Use a jam funnel, if you have one, to avoid spilling too much jam. If you are brave - or a bit stupid like me - pour it out straight from the preserving pan.

Cover the top surface of the jam in each jar with waxed paper discs that have been cut to size - they should cover the entire surface of the jam. Press the wax disc down to create a complete seal.

Cover with a lid while still hot, label and store in a cool, dark cupboard for up to a year.

Based on an article by http://www.bbc.co.uk/food/recipes/strawberryjam_90294

Photos - for a change, they are all mine

HOW TO GROW BANANA TREES FROM SEED

Want to buy hardy banana seed? Then click here to view the 'Garden of Eaden' seed shop.

There is nothing even close to a specimen banana plant to bring that exotic, tropical feel to your garden. And now, with ever hardy varieties becoming available, the reality of growing a banana all year round - without cold protection - is becoming more of a reality. Unfortunately, suitably hardy bananas can be both elusive to find and expensive, but if you decide to grow hardy bananas from seed all this can change.

Growing Hardy Bananas from Seed

Hardy banana seed can be sown at anytime of year so long as you can break its seed dormancy. To achieve this, soak the seeds for 24 hours in warm water before planting.

Using either a seed tray of modular tray, fill with a good quality seed compost such as John Innes ‘Seed and Potting’. Then using a dibber – or an old pencil as in my case - sow the hardy banana seed ¼in deep. Back fill the hole with a little more compost then water thoroughly. Allow the excess water to drain then seal the tray inside a polythene bag in order to keep the compost moist. Now place the tray in a warm area while the seeds germinate. Be aware that germination is slow and erratic and even at a temperature of around 28 degrees Celsius banana seeds can take 1-6 months to germinate.

It is worth mentioning here that most banana seed will respond well to fluctuations in temperature. If you have both the time and the facilities, consider give your seeds alternating temperatures of 19 hours cool and 5 hours warm. You will find that some species will respond well to larger fluctuations of temperature – between 35 degrees Celsius and 15 degrees Celsius, while others are better with less severe fluctuations 25 Celsius – 15 Celsius or even 20 Celsius -15 Celsius. However, do not go much below 12 degrees Celsius as this can place your hardy banana seed back into dormancy.Perhaps the easiest way to produce your fluctuating temperatures is keep your seeded trays in a heated propagator. Switch it on during the day and turn it off at night. If your night temperatures are too cold then have the propagator on a night and turned off during the day.

Tropical species of banana will do better with a constant temperature between 20 and 35 Celsius - depending on the variety. Fresh seed will always be the best, although it has been known for banana seed to germinate at room temperature after being stored for 2 years! There are still a lot of unknowns with regards to germinating banana seeds, but the following research may be of help to you.

At a germinating temperature fluctuating between 35 – 15 Degrees Celsius. The banana species listed below had the following success rate:

Musa Helens Hybrid 21%
M. Sikkimensis 23%
M. Sikkimensis Red tiger 0%
M. flaviflora 3%
M. Formosana 4%
E. Glaucum 1%

At a germinating temperature fluctuating between 25 – 15 Degrees Celsius. The banana species listed below had the following success rate:

E. Glaucum 24%
M. Sikkimensis Red tiger 30%
M. Sikkimensis 34%
M. Helens Hyb. 11%
M. Flaviflora 7%
M. Formosana 0%

At a germinating temperature fluctuating between 21 – 15 Degrees Celsius. The banana species listed below had the following success rate:

M. sikkimensis 3%
M. Sikkimensis Red tiger 27%
E. glaucum 18%
M Helens Hyb. 30%
M. flaviflora 15%
M. Formosana 2%

It should be noted that further germination will occur so long as you have the patience to wait for it – including the difficult Musa Formosa which eventually germinated about 50% of all seeds sown.

As each seed germinates, lift carefully from the tray so as to prevent any damage to the juvenile root system, and transfer it to a 3 in pot of good quality, free draining compost. Pot on as required because the larger the container the larger your banana plant will grow.

Grow on in warm well lit conditions. During summer they can be stood outside or planted in the border but should be brought into well lit frost free conditions for the winter when it should be kept moderately dry. Some discolouration of the leaf ends may occur through the winter months but this won't harm the plant.

For more information click onto:

Agapanthus africanus
Banana Plants
Baobab
Bird of Paradise Flower
Buy Agapanthus Seed
Buy Allium giganteum Seed
Buy Echium Seed
Buy Glory Lily Seed - Gloriosa superba
Buy Giant Ornamental Onion Seed
Buy Venus Fly Trap Seeds
Dracunculus vulgaris - The Dragon Lily
How to Compost

Lilium Nepalense - the Lily of Nepal
Saffron
Tetrapanax papyrifera 'Rex'
The Black Rose
The Blue Poppy
The Banana Tree
The Lemon Tree
The Mushroom
The Snake's Head Fritillary - Fritallaria meleagris

The Glory Lily - Gloriosa rothschiliana
What is a Banana?
What is Composting?
What words rhyme with orange?
When to Prune Roses?
When to Prune Wisteria?
Zafran
Photos care http://www.apsnet.org/publications/apsnetfeatures/Pages/blacksigatoka.aspx and http://www.kriyayoga.com/photography/photo_gallery/v/Fruits_of_the_Philippine_islands/banana_plants-dsc00379.jpg.html and http://cadila-pharmaceuticals-limited1.tradenote.net/catalog.html

WHAT IS TOMATO BLIGHT?

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.
Want to buy blight resistant tomato seed? Click here to view seed shop.

Tomato blight is a disease caused by a fungus-like organism which spreads rapidly in the foliage and fruit of tomatoes - typically in wet weather, causing them to collapse and decay.

In particular, it is a serious disease outdoor tomatoes, but not as common on tomatoes grown in greenhouses.

Blight is specific to tomatoes and potatoes, and some ornamental relatives of these two crops are also susceptible. Cases have been recorded on some ornamental Solanum species as well as bedding Petunias.

Symptoms of Tomato Blight

The initial symptom of blight on tomatoes is a rapidly spreading, watery rot of leaves which soon collapse, shrivel and turn brown. During humid conditions, a fine white fungal growth may be seen around the edge of the lesions on the underside of the leaves. Brown lesions may also develop on the stems. If allowed to spread unchecked, the disease will begin to attack the fruit. This is recognised by brown patches appearing on green fruit. If infected, the more mature fruits will decay rapidly.

How to Control Tomato Blight

Perhaps the biggest problem with blight on tomatoes is with its cousin the humble potato. With the majority of potato varieties being highly susceptible to this virulent fungus, the late summer air is full of pathonogenic spores just waiting for a suitable host plant to infect. It's Unfortunate that the closely related tomato plant more than readily fits the bill.

This can be a particular problem with tomatoes, especially when grown outside in the more temperate regions of the country. With the late cropping of most true outdoor varieties – and even later cropping if glasshouse varieties are grown outside – the ripening fruit will often coincide with the seasonal incidence of ‘Late Blight’. If the late summer season is particularly hot and humid, your tomato crops will probably stand little hope of survival and your years worth of work can end up as another pile being burned at the local incinerator.

Because infection is so dependent on specific combinations of temperature and rainfall, periods of high risk can be predicted accurately. To find out when your tomatoes are at their greatest risk it is worth contacting your local horticultural advisory service. You will be able to access these warnings (visit the Potato Review website), but because this information is more for the commercial grower you must rely on a more restricted range of protectant fungicides containing copper (Bordeaux Mixture or Fruit and Vegetable Disease Control), as the more effective systemic products will not be approved for amateur use.

As a safety net, when wet weather is forecast from June onwards, begin applications of protectant sprays as a matter of course.

Blight Resistant Tomato Varieties

Recently there have been some new introductions that have performed extremely well against Late Blight. Given time - and improved availability - these hardier varieties will hopefully give tomato growers around the world a well deserved break. The three best performing varieties are listed below.

TOMATO ‘LEGEND’

This particular variety was bred in the USA by Dr. Jim Baggett at Oregon State University. In recent tests ‘Legend’ had shown impressive blight tolerance, and in particular during trials in a ‘garden’ situation. It produces large, glossy red fruits with an expected crop of up to 6lbs per plant. The fruit have a slightly flatter shape compared to the norm and come almost completely seedless. Fortunately for most gardeners, best results are produced when the plants were grown outdoors but they are also perfectly fine for growing under glass. They have an excellent flavour and should be sown 6-8 weeks before expected lasts frosts - in the United Kingdom this will be any time from March onwards.

TOMATO ‘FERLINE’ F1 Hybrid

Not only has this new variety shown excellent tolerance to ‘Late Blight’, it has also proven itself to be highly resistant against both fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. As with the new ‘Legend’ cultivar, ‘Ferline’ has also tested extremely well in garden trials. It produces heavy crops – up to 5lbs per plant – of flavoursome, deep red fruits. Although it does well sown outdoors ‘Ferline’ is also suitable for growing under glass.

TOMATO ‘FANTASIO’ F1 Hybrid

This is a deliciously flavoured variety that has also trialled well in the garden situation against ‘Late Blight’ infection. In fact it has also shown good resistance to Tobacco Mosaic Virus, Verticilium wilt, Fusarium Wilts, and nematodes too. Tomato ‘Fantastico will bear you a good crop of round fruits, with each plant producing up to around 6lbs of tomatoes.

For related articles click onto:
Basil
Blight Resistant Tomatoes
Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes
Common Tomato Pests and Diseases
Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Grey Mould on Tomatoes
How to Collect and Prepare Tomato Seeds for Propagation
How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Greenhouse Whitefly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Leaf Miner on Tomato Plants
How to Control Mosaic Virus on Tomato Plants
How to Grow Basil from Seed
How to Grow Basil from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Tomatoes?
How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed
How to Grow Greenhouse Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Tomatoes - Growbags or Soil?
Organic Control of Grey Mould on Tomato Plants
Potato Blight
Recipe for Tangy Tomato Soup
Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants
Salad Crops for Late Summer/Autumn Planting
The 'Garden of Eaden' Seed Shop
Tomato Blight
Tomato Soup
What is Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes?
What is Damping Off Disease?
Which Salad Crop Seeds can be sown in August?
What is Oregano?
What is Tomato Blight?
What is Tomacco?
Photo care of http://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/problem-solving/tomato-blight/ and http://www.thegardenersalmanac.co.uk/Data/Tomato%20problems/Tomato%20problems.htm and http://www.allotmentgardening.org.uk/potato-and-tomato-blight/

HOW TO GROW TOMATOES FROM SEED

CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN’ WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP
.
Want to buy tomato seed? Click here to view seed shop.

Tomatoes are the mainstay of sandwich fillers, healthy salads and the starting point for many popular dishes. The trouble is that the tomatoes you buy in the supermarkets are grown to a set of standards - none of which seem to include flavour! So don't be surprised when you cut open your shop bought tomato and find that it is watery and tastless! You don't think so? Then try eating a naturaly produced tomato that has been grown in soil rather than scientifically produced in inert rockwool and fed on drip irrigation!

So, how do you grow tomatoes from seed?

The fact is tomatoes are one of the easiest crops to produce, and so as long as you have a place outside that gets some sun then there is no reason why you can't grow your own.

To make the most of your new seasons tomato crop you can start off your seeds early indoors or in a heated greenhouse – usually about six to eight weeks before the last frosts are anticipated. In Great Britain this would usually be around May. If you are not sure when would be a safe time to put them out where you live a good guideline would beto put your tomato plants out when average day temperatures are reaching over 20 degrees Celsius and nights aren’t dropping below 10 degrees Celsius. Be careful though, because if you start too early your seedlings can outgrow their pots resulting in weak, "leggy" plants. If they end up being planted outdoors in this condition then valuable time is wasted while the plants devote energy to recovering their health, rather than to normal growth and flower production.

Sowing the Seed

Tomato seed is quite easy to handle and is best germinated using a standard seed tray filled with John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' compost. Space the seed evenly and then cover with about 1.5mm of compost. Tomato seedlings will ususally germinate in about 7 to 14 days at a temperature of around 21C . For the best sowing times, see the recommendations listed in 'greenhouse' or 'outdoor' cultivation below. Pot tomato seedlings on when they are large enough to handle without the need to touch the stem.

Just by handling the leaves, transplant them carefully into 3inch pots using John Innes No.1 potting compost. If only a few plants are required, sow two seeds into a 3 inch pot and after germination remove the smaller plant. Take care not to let the plant and seedlings get cold as frost, cold winds and draughts will cause the plants to turn bluish and in most cases die. If you live in a cold area wait a few extra weeks until the air temperature has risen. Check the compost at all stages for dryness. This is vital in the intitial stages of germination as drought can cause poor germination or failure to germinate at all. If this is the case, add a little clean water from below, being careful not to over water. Too much water can kill seedlings just as easily, as it can spread water borne fungal diseases such as 'damping off'

Greenhouse Cultivation

For greenhouse tomatoes first pick a recommended variety such as 'Santa', 'Matador', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Supersteak' and sow as directed on the individual seed packet. This will generally be from late December/early January onwards and straight into 3 inch pots.

Plant the young plants when they are about 6-8 inches tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open. If you are planting into your greenhouse border make sure you have dug in plenty of organic compost during the winter.

If you have used the border before for tomatoes, it is better to change the soil or sterilise it before using it for tomatoes again. This will help avoid soil pests and root diseases becoming a problem. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot just remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more then two plants per bag.

Outdoor Cultivation

For growing tomatoes outside, first pick a recommended variety such as 'Gardeners Delight', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Sweet 100' or try 'Tumbler' in a flower pouch or hanging basket.

Wait until approximately 6-8 weeks before the last frost is forecast and sow as directed on the individual seed packet in 7.5cm (3in) pots.

When all risk of frost has past and when the plants are about 15-20cm (6-8in) tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open, you can plant them out. If you are planting into your border make sure you have dug in plenty of garden compost or peat during the winter. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18 in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more than two plants per bag

Training Plants

How to train or when to pick your fruit will depend on the varieties and types of tomatoes grown. Cordon (indeterminate) varieties will need their side shoots removed, determinate varieties may stop flower production after several trusses, but upward growth can be carried on by training up the topmost side shoot.

Bush varieties will remain low and will not need their side shoots removal. Tomatoes require a lot of water and feed to get the best fruit. Water little and often for the best results. Feed with a general liquid feed until the first truss is formed then alternate with a high potash feed. This will encourage more flowers and fruit.

Tomato Blight

Perhaps the biggest problem with blight on tomatoes is with its cousin the humble potato. With the majority of potato varieties being highly susceptible to this virulent fungus, the late summer air is full of pathonogenic spores just waiting for a suitable host plant to infect. It's Unfortunate that the closely related tomato plant more than readily fits the bill.

This can be a particular problem with tomatoes, especially when grown outside in the more temperate regions of the country. With the late cropping of most true outdoor varieties – and even later cropping if glasshouse varieties are grown outside – the ripening fruit will often coincide with the seasonal incidence of ‘Late Blight’. If the late summer season is particularly hot and humid, your tomato crops will probably stand little hope of survival and your years worth of work can end up as another pile being burned at the local incinerator.

Recently there have been some new introductions that have performed extremely well against Late Blight. Given time - and improved availability - these hardier varieties will hopefully give tomato growers around the world a well deserved break. The three best performing varieties are listed below.

TOMATO ‘LEGEND’

This particular variety was bred in the USA by Dr. Jim Baggett at Oregon State University. In recent tests ‘Legend’ had shown impressive blight tolerance, and in particular during trials in a ‘garden’ situation. It produces large, glossy red fruits with an expected crop of up to 6lbs per plant. The fruit have a slightly flatter shape compared to the norm and come almost completely seedless. Fortunately for most gardeners, best results are produced when the plants were grown outdoors but they are also perfectly fine for growing under glass. They have an excellent flavour and should be sown 6-8 weeks before expected lasts frosts - in the United Kingdom this will be any time from March onwards.

TOMATO ‘FERLINE’ F1 Hybrid

Not only has this new variety shown excellent tolerance to ‘Late Blight’, it has also proven itself to be highly resistant against both fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. As with the new ‘Legend’ cultivar, ‘Ferline’ has also tested extremely well in garden trials. It produces heavy crops – up to 5lbs per plant – of flavoursome, deep red fruits. Although it does well sown outdoors ‘Ferline’ is also suitable for growing under glass.

TOMATO ‘FANTASIO’ F1 Hybrid

This is a deliciously flavoured variety that has also trialled well in the garden situation against ‘Late Blight’ infection. In fact it has also shown good resistance to Tobacco Mosaic Virus, Verticilium wilt, Fusarium Wilts, and nematodes too. Tomato ‘Fantastico will bear you a good crop of round fruits, with each plant producing up to around 6lbs of tomatoes.

For more information click onto:
Basil
Blight Resistant Tomatoes
Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes
Common Tomato Pests and Diseases
Detox you Body with Fresh Fruit
Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Grey Mould on Tomatoes
Growing Carrots
How to Avoid E.Coli when Preparing Salads
How to Collect and Prepare Tomato Seeds for Propagation
How to Compost
How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants
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Article courtesy of Thompson and Morgan

टमाटर बीज कैसे विकसित करने के

GORILLA

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Gorillas are the largest species of primates alive today. They are ground-dwelling, predominantly herbivorous, and although they are frequently portrayed as aggressive, dangerous killers, they are in reality shy, peaceful vegetarians. Furthermore, because of massive loss of habitat, these majestic primates are now at huge risk of extinction!

Gorillas are divided into two species and then further still into four or five subspecies. The DNA of gorillas is increadibly similar to that of humans, between 95 and 99%! In fact they are our closest living relatives next to chimpanzees.

Gorilla Habitat

The Gorillas natural habitat covers the tropical and subtropical forests of Africa. Although their range covers only a small percentage of Africa, gorillas cover a wide range of elevations. The mountain gorilla inhabits the Albertine Rift montane cloud forests of the Virunga Volcanoes, ranging in altitude from 7,200–14,100 ft. Lowland Gorillas live in dense forests and lowland swamps and marshes as low as sea level, with western lowland gorillas living in Central West African countries and eastern lowland gorillas living in the Democratic Republic of the Congo near its border with Rwanda.

Gorilla Behaviour

Gorillas live in groups called troops. Each troops will tend to be made of one adult male or silverback, multiple adult females, and their offspring. However, multi-male troops also exist.

Silverbacks are typically more than 12 years of age and named for the distinctive patch of silver hair on his back, which comes with maturity. A silverback gorilla has large canine teeth that also come with maturity.

Both males and females tend to emigrate from their natal groups. Dispersal from natal troops is more common in females than males for mountain gorillas. Female mountain gorillas and western lowland gorillas also commonly transfer to a second new group. Mature males tend to also leave their groups and establish their own troops by attracting emigrating females. However, male mountain gorillas sometimes stay in their natal troop and become subordinate to the silverback. They may gain the opportunity to mate with new females or become dominant if the silverback dies. This behavior has not been observed in eastern lowland gorillas.

In a single male group, when the silverback dies, the females and their offspring disperse and find a new troop. Without a silverback to protect them, the infants will likely fall victim to infanticide, and seaching out and joining a new group is likely to be a tactic against this. However, while gorilla troops usually disband after the silverback dies, female eastern lowlands gorillas and their offspring have been recorded staying together until a new silverback transfers into the group. This likely serves to decrease chance of being attacked by leopards. Although very rare, all male troops have also been recorded.

Silverback Gorillas

The silverback is the center of the troop's attention, making all the decisions, mediating conflicts, determining the movements of the group, leading the others to feeding sites and taking responsibility for the safety and well-being of the troop. Younger males subordinate to the silverback, known as blackbacks, may serve as backup protection. Blackbacks are males between 8 and 12 years of age and lack the silver back hair. The bond a silverback has with his females forms the core of gorilla social life. Bonds between them are maintained by grooming and close proximity. Having strong relationships with males is important for females as males give them mating opportunities and protection from predators and infanticidal outside males. However aggressive behaviors between males and females are common although they rarely lead to serious injury.

Relationships between females may vary. Maternally related females in a troop associate closely and tend to have friendly interactions. Otherwise, females usually have little friendly interactions and commonly act aggressive towards each other. Aggressive interactions between females tend to be centered around social access to males with males intervening in fights between females. Male gorillas have weak social bonds, particularly in multi-male groups with apparent dominance hierarchies and strong competition for mates. However, males in all-male groups tend to have friendly interactions and socialize through play, grooming and close proximity, and occasionally they even engage in homosexual interactions.

Gorilla Nests

Gorillas construct nests for daytime and night use. Day nests tend to be simple aggregations of branches and leaves on the ground while night nests are more elaborate constructions in trees. The nests may be 2 to 5 feet in diameter and are constructed by individuals. The young nest with the mother but construct nests after three years of age, initially close to that of their mother. Gorilla nests are distributed arbitrarily and use of tree species for site and construction appears to be opportunistic. Nest building by great apes is now considered to be not just animal architecture but as an important instance of tool use.

How do Gorillas Communicate?

There are now twenty-five distinct vocalizations recognized now through extensive scientific research, many of which are used primarily for group communication within dense vegetation. These sounds classified as grunts and barks are heard most frequently while traveling. They are often used to indicate the whereabouts of individual group members. They may also be used during social interactions when discipline is required. Screams and roars signal alarm or warning, and are produced most often by silverbacks.

Deep, rumbling belches suggest contentment and are heard frequently during feeding and resting periods. They are the most common form of intragroup communication. Severe aggression is rare in stable groups, but when two mountain gorilla groups meet, the two silverbacks can sometimes engage in a fight to the death, using their canines to cause deep, gaping injuries. The entire sequence has nine steps:

1. Progressively quickening hooting.
2. symbolic feeding.
3. Standing upright.
4. Throwing vegetation.
5. Chest-beating with cupped hands.
6. A single leg kick.
7. Sideways running, two-legged to four-legged.
8. Slapping and tearing vegetation.
9. thumping the ground with palms to end display.

Tool use in Gorillas

The following observations were made by a team led by Thomas Breuer of the Wildlife Conservation Society in September 2005. Gorillas are now known to use tools in the wild.

A female gorilla in the Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park in the Republic of Congo was recorded using a stick as if to gauge the depth of water whilst crossing a swamp.

A second female was seen using a tree stump as a bridge and also as a support whilst fishing in the swamp. This means that all of the great apes are now known to use tools.

In September 2005, a two and a half year old gorilla in the Republic of Congo was discovered using rocks to smash open palm nuts inside a game sanctuary. While this was the first such observation for a gorilla, over 40 years previously chimpanzees had been seen using tools in the wild, famously 'fishing' for termites.

Great apes are endowed with a semi-precision grip, and certainly have been able to use both simple tools and even weapons, by improvising a club from a convenient fallen branch.

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