Tuesday, 15 November 2011

HOW TO GROW ROSES FROM SEED


Growing roses from seed is not the quickest way to propagate roses but it is the most rewarding. It is also the best way to hybridise your roses in order to create brand new varieties. Of course there will be disappointments as some of your seed won't germinate at all, and you will always lose a certain percentage of  seedlings to damping off disease.

Once you get your seedlings to a size where they will bloom you will need to prepare yourself for yet more disappointment. Why? Because some of your creations will be as ugly as sin, while others will be just plain boring! However the point of all your work will become as clear as a lead crystal goblet because you may just discover that one of your rose seedlings has turned out to be something quite special!

When do you harvest rose hips?

Once the fruit (rose hip) has fully formed, wait four months before harvesting the seed. Some rose hips would have turned orange, red or yellow to proove that they are indeed ripe, but others can stay green even when over ripe.

You can open the rose hips as soon as they have been collected or you can store in a fridge for  up to four weeks before opening. To open, slice the rose hips in half with a knife, then remove the seeds. the pulp and outer shell can be thrown away


Growing Roses from seed

Once your rose seed has been collected, soak them overnight. Then in the morning, discard any seeds that are floating as these will produce either weak seedlings or not germinate at all. Strain the seeds of and then - wait for it - place into a blender with some more fresh water. Turn the blender on to LOW and wizz for a few seconds in order to remove most of what is left of the pulp. You may lose a few seeds here but you can always skip this step - especially if you are short of seed.

Alternatively you can clean the pulp from your rose seeds by  preading them out on a clean cloth or towel and scrubing over them with a suitable brush. Be aware that this can end up being quite a lot of work.

From this point, professional rose grows tend to chill their seeds from between six to ten weeks before planting as this willl encourage germination. If you leave them in any longer, is has been known for rose seeds to germinate in the fridge!

The most popular method of refridgeration is to place your clean, seeds on to a piece of good quality, damp paper towel. Fold the paper towel over a couple of times and then place into a sealable plastic bag. This can now be left in the salad compartment of your fridge.

When and how to plant rose seeds

Rose seeds collected as late as November - and possibly as late as December and January in warmer climates - can be planted as soon as they are retrieved. However, if they have been chilled then they can be sown in early spring. If there is a risk of frost then this will need to be done under protection.

Using a compost mix of 1:1 John Innes 'Seed and Potting' compost and horticultural grit or perlite, plant your rose seeds 1/2 inch deep into small, individual pots or a large shallow seed tray. Now water in with a soluable seedling fungicide such as Benlate. Allow the soil to drain off then move the pots/tray into a warm and sunny position. Place a clear cover - such as a sheet of glass or perspex - over the the pot or the pots/tray and place in a cool yet sunny position. If there is no risk of frosts then the containers can be placed outside into a coldframe.

Keep the soil moist and after six weeks or so your rose seeds should begin to germinate. As soon as you seed the seedlings emerge, remove their clear cover. If the seedlings are in a cold frame then the lid can be left open during the day - don't forget to shut it at night. The seedlings will continue to sprout while the weather is cool but growth can be arrested if the young plants get to warm!

Once the rose seedlings are a few inches tall then can be potted on either into 3/4 inch pots, or if you are feeling brave then can be planted directly into a prepared bed outside. From there it will take just three years to reach maturity.

For more information click onto:
Buy Glory Lily Seed - Gloriosa superba
How to Grow Amaryllis from Seed
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Growing Geraniums from Seed
How to Grow Dahlias from Seed?
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How to Grow Eucomis Plants from Seed
How to Grow the Glory Lily from Seed
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How to Grow a Lemon Tree from Seed
How to Grow Crocus from Seed
How to Grow Native Wild Primroses and Polyanthus from Seed
How to Grow an Orange Tree from Seed
How to Grow Roses from Seed
How to Grow Species Tulips from Seed
How to Over-Winter Lily Bulbs
How to Over-Winter the Glory Lily
How to Plant and Grow the Glory Lily
How to propagate and Grow Eucomis from Leaf Cuttings
How to Propagate and Grow Mistletoe
How to Propagate Box Hedging
How to Propagate Cowslips and Primroses
How to propagate Daffodils and Narcissus
How to Propagate Dahlias
How to Propagate and Grow Mistletoe
How to Propagate Hellebores
How to Propagate Hyacinths
How to Propagate Snowdrops
How to Propagate the Saffron Crocus
How to Propagate Tulips
What is an F1 Hybrid?

2 comments:

cathy@home said...

Interesting article learn something new everyday, thankyou

Tanya @ Lovely Greens said...

I think I'd be a bit leery of growing any modern varieties from seed - most of them would need to be grafted with stronger rootstalk and I'm not really familiar with doing it myself. It looks like you're using this method with wild roses though and I imagine they would be just fine. But taking cuttings is just so much easier and quicker - you can have a small blooming plant in a year's time.