HOW TO GROW BROCCOLI FROM SEED

Broccoli isn't everyone's favourite vegetable but there is no denying that it's packed with health promoting nutrients. And besides, if you are bored eating the standard green varieties consider trying the Purple Sprouting Broccoli or the even more exotic Romanesco natalino.

Growing Broccoli

As a rule of thumb, broccoli varieties are heavy feeders, preferring a well-drained soil rich in organic matter. To get the best out of your crop it is best to start your site preparation the autumn before planting. Broccoli also prefer a site in partial shade with a soil pH between 6.2 to 7.2.

To prepare the soil, add a couple of inches of organic compost or well rotted manure to the ground and work it in - removing any large stones that turn up. Add lime - if necessary – to balance out the pH as your broccoli crop can fail if the soil is too acidic.

You can check the pH of your soil using an 'off the shelf' pH testing kit obtained from any good plant retailer. Once finished, tread over the soil to remove any air pockets, firming up the soil surface.

TIP. Autumn plantings of broccoli tend to do well following an earlier planting of peas or beans as these crops will naturally increase nitrogen levels with the soil.

Broccoli should be planted either directly into a seedbed, or singularly in modules under glass which can be transferred outside at a later date. As a general `rule of thumb` both white and Purple Sprouting Broccoli plants are sown in April - May time and transplanted June - July, but check your seed packet for more exacting times. When sown directly outside, the seeds should be sown relatively sparsely to reduce future thinning and the potential risk from pests. When lifting from modules try and keep the root ball as intact as possible to minimise any damage to the juvenile root system,

Broccoli seeds can be 'direct sown' outside when temperatures are as low as 4°C, but temperatures of 7°-29°C will be more preferable for successful germination. Aim to sow broccoli seeds in ½ inch deep in rows spaced 6in apart and cover with soil, lightly firming with the head of the rake. Mark both ends of the row, labelling one end with the variety and date of sowing. Keep the seedbed moist, always use a fine spray.

When the seedlings are about 1 inch tall, thin them out to about 3 inches apart in the rows. This will stop overcrowding which would otherwise causing the seedlings to become weak and spindly.

The seedlings are ready to plant out when they are about 4 to 6 inches  tall. Water the bed the previous day before removing the Broccoli seedlings to their permanent position.

If you have a greenhouse, cold frame or cloches - it is probably going to be easier to sow your broccoli into seed trays under protection.

Sow broccoli seed in a tray filled with a good quality  compost such as John Innes 'Seed and Cutting'. Water thoroughly and place them inside your greenhouse, cold frame etc.

When the first two leaves have formed prick them out into 3 pots filled with potting compost. Plant them into these pots a little deeper - to just below the two leaves - water in well.

Broccoli seedlings sown under protection will also be ready for transplanting outside once they have reached between 3 - 5 inches high. Make sure that your protected broccoli seedlings are hardened off for at least a week or two before planting outside to make sure that they are tough enough to cope with ‘real’ weather conditions. Broccoli like a firm bed so transplant them firmly and about 1 inch deeper than the growing Broccoli were when in their pots. Leave a gap of about 18 inches between plants.

Water the broccoli the day before transplanting, water the hole you have created for the vegetable prior to planting, and keep well watered once outside until they are established.

Keep control of the weeds as they grow between your crop by hand weeding. Try and avoid using a how as this can disturb your crops roots and lead to the wind rock making the plants less productive

TIP. Avoid growing broccoli on the same piece of ground more often than one year in three, as this will help to avoid the buildup of soil pests and diseases.

TIP. Broccoli are a particular favourite of birds so use an appropriate and safe deterrent to stop them from picking off your seedlings. Broccoli are also susceptible to attack by the caterpillars of the cabbage white butterfly. Try covering crops with a crop protection mesh. It keeps the butterflies out, so they can't lay their eggs on the plants.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO GROW BROCCOLI FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW CABBAGE FROM SEED
WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BROCCOLI?

WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BROCCOLI?

When to harvest broccoli?

Broccoli isn't everyone's favourite vegetable but there is no denying that it's packed with health promoting nutrients. And besides, if you are bored eating the standard green varieties consider trying the Purple Sprouting Broccoli or the even more exotic Romanesco natalino.

Harvesting broccoli

Broccoli

Cut when the flower shoots (spears) are well formed but before the individual flowers begin to open. Cut the central spear first. This is followed by a series of side shoots, which can be picked regularly over four to six weeks.

TIP. Avoid growing broccoli on the same piece of ground more often than one year in three, as this will help to avoid the buildup of soil pests and diseases.

TIP. Broccoli are a particular favourite of birds so use an appropriate and safe deterrent to stop them from picking off your seedlings. Broccoli are also susceptible to attack by the caterpillars of the cabbage white butterfly. Try covering crops with a crop protection mesh. It keeps the butterflies out, so they can't lay their eggs on the plants.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO GROW BROCCOLI FROM SEED
WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BROCCOLI?

LEFTOVER TURKEY RECIPE - Turkey and Broccoli Bake

Written by guest author - Kathleen Hubert

The Christmas holidays are right around the corner and for many families; this holiday season is a special time to gather for fun, fellowship and of course, food. Especially around the Christmas holidays, there is something so warm and inviting about sharing a nice, big turkey dinner together, complete with all the fixings. After the big meal, there are usually lots of leftovers, especially turkey.

However, leftover turkey does not have to be a dread or boring, there are many simple ways to make leftover turkey into a casual, healthy meal that can be enjoyed with your family while relaxing and watching T.V. for instance.

Below is an easy, healthy recipe that uses leftover turkey. This recipe can be easily modified to suite just about any taste and the ingredients are easy to find and very budget-friendly. Also, using unsalted butter and low-sodium broth for this dish will make it a low-sodium option for those who need to watch their salt intake. With only 320 calories per serving and a whopping 28 grams of protein, this dish is nutritious as well as delicious!

How to make Turkey-Broccoli bake

1-bag frozen broccoli (can use fresh --chopped if desired)
3-4 cups turkey cut into small pieces or shredded (warm slightly on the stove-top or microwave)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or 2 tablespoons of olive oil (salted butter is ok, if desired)
1 small onion (diced)
1 1/2 cups turkey broth
2 tablespoons dry sherry
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons heavy cream, milk or half &half
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup sliced almonds

*optional: 1 small can of mushrooms, cauliflower instead of, or in addition to broccoli and shredded cheddar cheese instead of, or in addition to the Parmesan cheese.

Preheat the oven to 350-degrees.

Cook the broccoli in the microwave or stovetop for about five minutes, or until the broccoli is tender (not fully cooked) and lay on the bottom of a buttered 9 inch x 13 inch baking dish. Add the turkey on top of the broccoli.

How to prepare the sauce

Melt the butter in a large skillet and add onions (and mushrooms if you are using them). Saute onions over medium heat until they are golden brown. Add flour and broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low or simmer and simmer for three to five minutes. Add wine and cook an additional one minute. Add milk or cream and half of the Parmesan cheese and simmer an additional minute.

Remove from heat and pour over the broccoli and turkey. Sprinkle remaining cheese on top and bake at 350-degrees for 20-30 minutes.

This recipe is sure to please the entire family. The high protein content and delicious flavor will leave you and your family happy and satisfied. Additionally, this dish is a both simple and healthy way to prepare leftover turkey. Your family may even request this leftover Christmas turkey instead of moaning about "leftover turkey again".

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HOW TO GROW BRASSICAS FROM SEED

Vegetables for the Brassica family are not only amongst the easiest to grow, they can also provide a crop at almost any time of year. However there are few of us that would actually want to eat cabbages in the middle of summer so to get the best use out of your garden or allotment space it is better to grow brassicas for autumn and winter production. Not only will this leave a convenient ‘brassica free’ April-to-June gap, this three-month break will also helps to limit the incidence of common brassica pests such as whitefly.

For those who are unfamiliar with this brassicas, they are the edible stars of the spring and autumn garden. It is a comparatively large family containing a wide range of common leafy vegetables, such as cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli, kale and cauliflower. Root crops such as turnips, swedes and kohlrabi are also part of this nutritious group.

Growing Requirements

As a rule of thumb, brassicas are heavy feeders, preferring a well-drained soil rich in organic matter. They also prefer a site in partial shade with a soil pH between 6.0 to 7.5. To prepare the soil for planting, add a couple of inches of organic compost or well rotted manure to the ground and work it in - removing any large stones that turn up. Add lime - if necessary – to balance out the pH as your brassica crop can fail if the soil is too acidic. You can check the pH of your soil using an 'off the shelf' pH testing kit obtained from any good plant retailer. Once finished, tread over the soil to remove any air pockets, firming up the soil surface.

TIP. Autumn plantings of brassicas tend to do well following an earlier planting of peas or beans as these crops will naturally increase nitrogen levels with the soil.

Nearly all brassicas should be planted either directly into a seedbed, or singularly in modules under glass which can be transferred outside at a later date. When sown directly outside, the seeds should be sown relatively sparsely to reduce future thinning and the potential risk from pests. When lifting from modules try and keep the root ball as intact as possible to minimise any damage to the juvenile root system,

Broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbage seeds can be 'direct sown' outside when temperatures are as low as 4°C, but temperatures of 7°- 29°C will be more preferable for successful germination. Aim to sow brassica seeds in ½ inch deep in rows spaced 6in apart.


Cabbage and broccoli seedlings sown under protection will be ready for transplanting outside once they have reached between 3 -4 inches high. However, Brussels sprouts and kale should be about 6 inches in height before they go outside. Make sure that all protected seedlings are hardened off for at least a week or two before planting outside to make sure that they are tough enough to cope with ‘real’ weather conditions. Water the day before moving, and keep well watered once outside until they are established.

If you have them, space the plants according to their planting instructions which should automatically be printed with shop bought brassica seeds/baby plants. These distances can vary from 12 inches for small cabbages to 18 inches for Brussels sprouts. However, if you are without instructions keep to the safe side and thin all seedlings out to 18 inches apart.

Keep control of the weeds as they grow between your crop by hand weeding. Try and avoid using a how as this can disturb your crops roots and lead to the wind rock making the plants less productive

TIP. Avoid growing brassicas on the same piece of ground more often than one year in three, as this will help to avoid the buildup of soil pests and diseases.

TIP. Brassicas are a particular favourite of birds so use an appropriate and safe deterrent to stop them from picking off your seedlings. Brassicas are also susceptible to attack by the caterpillars of the cabbage white butterfly. Try covering crops with a crop protection mesh. It keeps the butterflies out, so they can't lay their eggs on the plants.

For related articles click onto the following links:
HOW TO GROW BRASSICAS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW BROCCOLI FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW BRUSSELS SPROUTS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW CABBAGE FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW CAULIFLOWERS FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW CELERY FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW CHINESE SPINACH FROM SEED HOW TO GROW KOHLRABI
HOW TO GROW SEA KALE
HOW TO GROW SPINACH FROM SEED
HOW TO GROW TURNIPS FROM SEED
WHAT IS SEA KALE - CRAMBE MARITIMA
WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BROCCOLI?

WHEN ARE RADISHES READY TO HARVEST

Image credit - http://hdimagelib.com/

You can't beat the fresh, crisp taste and texture of home grown radishes, and as they are so easy to grow from seed why would you ever settle for lower quality, shop bought produce? Of course, those that have grown radish before will already know that as a member of the mustard family germinating radish seed isn't the issue. The trick to a perfect radish crop is the timing of production, the density of the crop and of course harvesting them at correct time. Always remember that overcrowded seedlings will produce foliage at the cost of root growth.

Image credit - https://www.rhs.org.uk/

Choosing the right time to harvest radishes is critical. Lift them too soon and the bulbous roots would not have formed to their full potential. Lift them too late and they will lose their crispness becoming increasingly spongy and hot to the point of being unpalatable.

For spring sown cultivars the rule of thumb is to harvest them as soon as they are of a usable size, which is usually before the root has grown to no more than one inch in diameter. Keep an eye on the date they are sown as they will be ready for lifting between 20 and 30 days - depending on the weather and cultivar.

Late summer sown cultivars are a little different as they are slower to develop meaning that they can be left in the ground for longer, usually between 50 and 60 days from sowing. Furthermore, these late season crops tend to grow larger than the earlier varieties without becoming spongy and hot. This means that they can be a little larger than one inch in diameter before they are lifted.

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WHICH VEGETABLES ARE TOLERANT OF GROWING IN THE SHADE

Wouldn't it be wonderful, if everyone who wanted one had a perfect plot for vegetable growing? However - as with many things in life - perfection is usually out of reach, and unfortunately gardening is no different.

Most people’s image of a vegetable garden is one that will receive direct sunlight all day long, and that’s fantastic for growing old favourites such as tomatoes, peppers, and melons.

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But what are you supposed to do if you have no other choice than to grow in the shade? Of course, if your shade is caused by overhanging trees then you can try and improve the growing conditions - ambient light levels can easily be increased by careful pruning. Unfortunately that may not be the end of it as you will probably need to improve the soil too - established tree roots will not only remove a large percentage of the available nutrients they will also be taking out a good proportion of the soil water.

Luckily there are plenty of vegetable varieties around that will not only tolerate these lower light levels, they will in fact prefer them, and positively thrive.

There are of course some benefits to growing in the shade because you won't need to water as often and crops that are quick to bolt in hot weather - such as lettuces and spinach - will have a far longer harvesting period.

A good rule to remember is that if you are growing crops for the fruit or edible roots, then you are best suited with a sunny position. If you are growing crops for the leaves, stems, or buds, then a certain amount of shade will actually improve the crop.

Below is a list of the best vegetables for growing under shade.

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Image credit - http://shawnacoronado.com/

Brassicas such as Broccoli, Brussels sprouts and Cauliflower

Peas

Beets

Swiss Chard

Leafy Greens, such as collards, mustard greens, and spinach.

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You can also try growing vegetables that have been selected for their shade tolerance. Consider varieties such as beetroot 'Boltardy', calabrese, kale, and kohl.

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If your shade is caused by deciduous trees then it is possible to try and work around it by making the most of growing early vegetables such as spring cabbage, and broad bean ‘Aquadulce’. Their seeds will need to be in the ground in early autumn so they are well established by early spring.

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Take advantage of warmer and hopefully brighter conditions at home by germinating seeds earlier on in the year using modules. This will get them off to a far quicker start and will also help to establish their root systems before they are planted into the ground.

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WHICH VEGETABLE SEEDS CAN BE GROWN IN OCTOBER?

.WHICH VEGETABLE SEEDS CAN BE GROWN IN OCTOBER?

WHEN IS CELERY READY FOR HARVESTING

Celery is a biennial vegetable, although grown as an annual for its tight cluster of crescent-sectioned stalks, The most commonly cultivated varieties are green, pink or red. The green cultivars will mature first followed by the pink and lastly the red. Red celery is the hardiest of all forms of celery. These regular cultivars will need to be grown in trenches and earthed up for blanching prior to harvesting. Self-blanching white or green celery varieties will not need earthing up but are far less hardy than regular cultivars and must be cleared from the ground outside before the first frosts.

The stalks of trench grown celery are not usually blanched sufficiently for use until at least eight weeks after the first earthing up. The first earthing up is usually around mid-August. Self-blanching celery varieties should be ready for harvesting from the end of August onward. Typically, the time to harvest celery is 85 to 120 days after planting out into their outside bed. The variance is due to the time of planting, seasonal weather conditions and specific cultivars. Of course, for the harvest day period to be of any use you will need to take note of the date when planting out.

Celery can be harvested as soon as the bottom stalks are at least 6 inches long, from ground level to the first leaf node. The stalks should still be close together, forming a compact bunch approximately 3 inches in diameter. Cut the stalks below where they are joined together, as near to the roots basal plate as possible. That way the entire plant can be lifted in one go.

When a plant is removed fill in the gap with soil to prevent too much light reaching the remaining plants.

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HOW CAN YOU TELL WHEN SWEET CORN IS READY TO HARVEST?

How can you tell when is sweet corn is ready for harvest?

Pre-packed frozen sweet corn is usually how most people purchase this gorgeous vegetable , however they are missing out if they have never cook a freshly harvested cob. Luckily growing sweet corn is surprisingly easy but as the kernels are hidden by a thick fleshy husk, how can you tell when your sweet corn is ready for harvest?

So at first glance is going to be difficult to know when sweet corn is ready to pick, especially if you have never grown them before because the entire cob is hidden by layer after layer of thick, fibrous husk. The trouble is that you need to get the timing right. Pick too early and you have just wasted an ear, pick too late and the corn has lost all of its delicious, sweet flavor.

The ripening of the cob will of course depend on the weather, however you can expect it to be ready for harvesting anytime from 17 to 25 days after the time the first silks have appeared - but you are going to have to keep a close eye on it. A good indicator for this time would be when the silks have turned very dark brown to black. Of course sweet corn will mature more quickly in hot weather and slower in cool weather.

How can you tell when is sweet corn is ready for harvest?

Sweet corn are ready to harvest when the kernels are in the 'milk' stage, and there is a simple test that you can do to check this. When the fluid inside each kernel is still liquid and the skin of the kernel is still tender then the cob is ready for picking so puncture a kernel with your thumbnail to make sure. If a clear liquid appears, then the corn is immature. If the liquid is milky, then the corn is ready, and if no liquid appears then the corn is overripe.

Once the cobs have been picked they can turn very quickly as the sugar within the kernels will rapidly turn to starch. Even when stored properly they can be past their best within a couple of days, however there are steps you can take to make the most of this short harvesting period.

Try to harvest sweet corn in the morning before you get a build up of field heat but if this is unavoidable submerge the cobs in cold water for a minute or so to let them cool down. Then as soon as you can they need to be refrigerated with a mind to being eaten over the next couple of days. There is an old wives tale saying that the pot should be boiling when the corn is picked and although that is a slight exaggeration it does convey the importance of speed when it comes to picking and eating corn at its best.

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HOW TO USE CROP ROTATION ON AN ALLOTMENT

Based on an extract from ‘Practical Gardening and Food Production in Pictures’ – published in 1940

On allotments it is important to adopt some kind of crop rotation. The effect of rotation is to obtain a better yield from your crops and to avoid diseases which will attack said crops if they are continuously grown on the same piece of land. That said, onions are the only crop which can be grow on the same land year after year - provided that suitable fertilisers and manures are applied.

In practice, many allotment holders follow a two year rotation. Half of their plot is taken up with potatoes while the remainder is used for other crops.

In such a case the operation is to simply rotate the crops alternate years, but the best method is to use a three year crop rotation.

By using a rotation of crops, the same piece of land will not carry the same vegetables in successive years. For convenience, cops can be divided into three groups.

1. Peas and Beans
2. Cabbage, broccoli and other brassicas, turnips and Swedes.
3. Root crops

Note. Lettuce, spinach and other salad crops can be treated as inter-crops, while leeks, onions and celery can be placed anywhere, but preferably in the area where the brassicas etc are being grown.

Regarding fertilizers and digging, each area will of course need to be treated differently. In this way only one section (Root crops) will need to be double-dug each year, reducing the amount of heavy work required.

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WHAT IS A GREEN MANURE?

WHAT IS CROP ROTATION?

Based on an extract from ‘Practical Gardening and Food Production in Pictures’ – published in 1940

On any piece of ground that is used for growing edible plants it is important to adopt some kind of crop rotation. The effect of rotation is to obtain a better yield from your crops and to avoid diseases which will attack said crops if they are continuously grown on the same piece of land. Be aware that if you continue to grow the same or related edible plants in the same piece of ground then both soil borne pests as well as foliage pests will build up over time. This can only result in poorer crop yields in each subsequent year. That being said, onions are the only crop which can be grow on the same land year after year, provided that suitable fertilisers and manures are applied.

In practise, many gardeners follow a two year rotation. Half of their plot is taken up with potatoes while the remainder is used for other crops. In such a case the operation is to simply rotate the crops alternate years, but the best method is to use a three year crop rotation. Take a look at the following crop rotation diagram.

By using a rotation of crops, the same piece of land will not carry the same vegetables in successive years. For convenience, crops can be divided into three groups.

1. Peas and Beans
2. Cabbage, broccoli and other brassicas, turnips and Swedes.
3. Root crops

Note. Lettuce, spinach and other salad crops can be treated as intercrops, while leeks, onions and celery can be placed anywhere, but preferably in the area where the brassicas etc are being grown.

Regarding fertilisers and digging, each area will of course need to be treated differently. In this way only one section (Root crops) will need to be double-dug each year, reducing the amount of heavy work required.

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HOW TO MAKE STOCK FROM TURKEY BONES

How to make stock from turkey bones

When cooking hearty meals over the winter period you can't beat the flavour of a good old, homemade stock. So with that in mind, don't waste your old turkey bones once Christmas meals are over, put them to good use by making a proper stock put of them. You can be as fancy or as simple as you like. My Nan just used to chuck the turkey bones by themselves in as she would put any extra ingredients in the main dish. I like to add some celery and an onion/a few shallots, but that is through force of habit.

However, if you want to get really fancy then try this recipe, but my Nan - God rest her soul - will probably tell me that all I have made is rubbish soup. I will leave it to you to decide.

Ingredients
1 x turkey carcass
2 x carrots, scrubbed or peeled, and cut in half
2 x large onions, halved
2 x stalks of celery
The green tops of 1 or 2 leeks
6 cloves of garlic, peeled
Salt and ground black pepper
Cold water

How to make turkey stock

How to make stock from turkey bones

Place turkey carcass (broken up slightly if possible) into a large saucepan. Add the vegetables, season, then cover with cold water.

Bring to the boil and simmer for a couple of hours until all the flavour has been drawn from the turkey bones.

Pour through a sieve and discard the bones and vegetables. Cheat! Of course you can always do what I do, which is to remove all the bones and large pieces of anything my slotted spoon can drag out. After that I attack what's left with a hand held blender.

Allow to cool for a while and if there is any fat floating on the top of the stock, skim it off and discard.

Taste the stock - it should have a good flavour. If you want it a bit stronger, just reduce it down a bit. Use what you need and freeze the rest of it until required.

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WHEN ARE MELONS READY FOR HARVEST?

Melon harvest

The melon is a tender annual grown for its large, succulent, edible fruits. Originating from sub-tropical Africa and southwest Asia its is a popular fruit with northern European gardeners, but can only be brought to harvest when grown under the protected environment of a greenhouse.

Of course after going to all the effort of growing melons in a protected environment you want to make sure that you harvest at them in peak condition.

When it comes to harvesting melons the fruits should not be cut from the vine until they are completely ripe. Unfortunately melons ripe melons look a lot like unripened melons however there are a number of checks you can make you can make to be absolutely certain.

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1. The best test for ripeness is to press your thumb gently against the end of the fruit furthest from the stalk. If the fruit gives in to pressure then it is ripe. 

2. Also, but not relevant to all cultivars, the skins of ripe fruits of some varieties crack away from the stalks and give off a noticeable aroma. 

3. Melon cultivars with netted rinds have what some growers call a 'ground color' below the netting. When this color changes to a golden hue, the melon is ripe.

4. With many of the smaller melon varieties, the stem will naturally separates from the melon once ripe. This is known as 'slipping'. This is fine if your vines and fruit are growing on the ground but if you are short of space and growing melons as a vine then the fruits will need support. Otherwise if the fruit slips from the vine they will fall and become damaged.

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WHEN DO YOU HARVEST BROCCOLI?
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ORGANIC CONTROL OF CLUBROOT IN BRASSICAS

Clubroot is a serious disease that can affect crops from the brassica family. It is a fungal (although more correctly known as a slime mould) infection which attacks the plant through the soil via its root hairs. In a short period of time this will lead to massive swelling, distortion and severely retarded growth. Worst still, the fungus produces cysts that will remain in the soil until a suitable host comes available to re-infect, starting the cycle again.

The biggest problem is that these cysts can live in the soil for up to 20 years and are easily spread. In fact, just walking from an infected area onto a clean patch of land will infect your soil.

Be aware that clubroot disease will also easily contaminate your soil if it is brought in on infected plants, so do not accept brassica seedlings where the source is not known to be clean.

Clubroot can infect whenever the soil is moist and warm, so be aware that most new infections will tend to occur from mid-summer until late autumn.

Symptoms of Clubroot

The first sign of you crop contracting clubroot is a characteristic wilting of your plants, especially in dry weather. Infected plants will fail to develop properly and often the crop will fail. As mentioned before, by examining the roots you will notice unusual distortions and swellings.

Organic Control of Clubroot

If you have clubroot in your soil then unfortunately you are going to be stuck with it. Even so, don't worry - it is still possible to grow brassica crops successfully with some careful cultivation techniques.

Firstly, it is important to practice good hygiene. When your brassica crops have been harvested, carefully remove all the roots but DO NOT compost them, treat them either as household waste or burn them in an incinerator.

Remember that the brassica family also includes radishes and mustard, so do not use a mustard green manure on your land and remove radishes that have gone over and once again burn them, do not compost them. This will help to reduce the number of clubroot fungal spores and cysts left lying in the soil.

Keep down susceptible weeds like shepherd’s purse, charlock, and wild radish as this will also help to control the club roots life cycle.

Start your brassicas off in seed modules using fresh, sterilized compost to which a small amount of lime has been added, then pot them up to between 3 inch or 5 inch pots before planting out. This allows the plant a chance to develop a good root system prior to a possible infection.

Club root can be reduced, but not eliminated in open ground, by improving drainage and raising the soil pH by liming. On acidic soils, lime at the rate of 500g per sq m (15 oz per sq yd), with lighter dressings of 270g per sq m (8 oz per sq yd) in future years. Before planting, you may wish to try digging a decent sized hole- at least 1 ft deep - and then dusting the sides and base of the hole with lime before planting your seedlings.

Consider using clubroot resistant brassica varieties, but remember - this is just resistance and not total immunity.

Clubroot Resistant Varieties

Brussels sprouts ‘Crispus’
Cauliflower ‘Clapton’
Cauliflower ‘Clarify’
Cabbage ‘Kilaton’


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WHICH FOODS ARE BEST FOR THE SKIN?

Everyone has a favourite face cream or treatment, but the secret to glowing, beautiful, healthy skin actually starts on the inside! Eat the right balance of foods and you will feed your skin the vital nutrients to help keep it soft, supple and blemish-free.

The best starting point for healthy looking skin is to eat plenty of foods that are rich in vitamin C. Foods such as blackcurrants, blueberries, broccoli, guava, kiwi fruits, oranges, papaya, strawberries and sweet potatoes all help to produce collagen that strengthens the capillaries that feed the skin.

Also,make sure you are getting enough omega-3 and omega-6 oils - both of which are essential fatty acids. You will find omega-3 in oily fish, but plant sources like flax seeds and flax oil make excellent alternatives. For omega-6 try safflower, sunflower and corn oils.

Eating foods that contain sulphur can help to keep skin smooth - garlic and onions are ideal for this - although a bit smelly.

Choose foods that are rich in vitamin E, such as almonds, avocado, hazelnuts, pine nuts and sunflower and corn oils. Vitamin E is a strong antioxidant and will help to protect your skin from the damaging effects of free radicals.

Zinc-rich foods, such as wheat germ, liver, pumpkin seeds, sardines and oysters, help to repair skin damage and keep it soft and supple.

Foods rich in vitamin A help new skin to grow. Liver, eggs, milk and oily fish are good sources along with fortified cereals and margarines.

Eat a few dried apricots every day. They're full of iron to help improve your skin tone. So are sesame seeds - try adding them to cereals and muesli.

Don't forget to drink plenty of water to rehydrate your skin - aim for eight glasses a day. Tea, coffee and juices will count, but for really great skin stick to plain water and don't smoke!

Of all the B vitamins vital for great skin, vitamin B2 or riboflavin helps your skin glow. Best sources include beef, cheese, eggs, liver and Marmite.

Finally, once you make changes to your diet, don't expect an overnight miracle. It takes six weeks for new skin to emerge up to the surface, so the visible benefits from dietary changes will take just as long. So it's never too soon to start.

Foods that can help with problem skin

Is your skin very dry? Dry, rough skin combined with coarse, dry and brittle hair (as well as tiredness) can be a sign of an underactive thyroid, so if you're worried, check it out with your GP. But for general dry skin problems, try increasing your intake of foods rich in beta-carotene (such as yellow and red peppers and dark green leafy vegetables such as spinach) and increasing your intake of omega-3-rich oils. In addition, consider adding a teaspoon of flax oil to salad dressings or sprinkle some flax seeds on your cereal daily.

Is your skin itchy? Get some relief by opting for foods high in B vitamins, such as eggs, fish, lentils, nuts and whole grains. B vitamins improve poor circulation, which is sometimes associated with itchiness.

Is your skin oily? Cut down on processed and junk food as well as foods high in sugar, such as cakes and biscuits as well as hard fats. Dip bread in olive oil or hemp seed oil for a tasty treat instead of using butter.

Do you suffer from acne? Try selenium-rich foods, such as Brazil nuts, cashew nuts, fresh tuna, sunflower seeds, walnuts and wholemeal bread. Combine with vitamin E for the best effect.

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