GARDENING IN THE ARCTIC CIRCLE - Canada


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By JILL MAHONEY
INUVIK, NWT -- Carrie Young is working on the second floor of an old hockey arena, dirt wedged under her cropped fingernails. Around her are containers of colourful geraniums, pansies and nasturtiums. Down below, there are carefully tended plots with rows of tender lettuce, silky cornstalks and broad strawberry plants.

This is the Inuvik Community Greenhouse, which, at 200 kilometres above the Arctic Circle, is thought to be the world's most northerly commercial operation and Canada's only community hothouse.
"It sounds cheesy, but it's a testimony of hope that you can do something if you want to, even in the frozen Arctic," said assistant co-ordinator Yoenne Ewald.

The rink, which belonged to Grollier Hall, the town's former residential school, was slated for demolition when a couple of locals formed a non-profit society in late 1998 to raise funds to transform the half-pipe-shaped arena into a greenhouse.

"They were just driving by one day and thinking, 'Oh, what a shame, what a waste of a building,' " said Ms. Young, the co-ordinator. "And they thought, 'Hey wait a minute, that'd be a really nice greenhouse.' "

The facility, which is in its fifth year of production, allows people who live in Inuvik, a one-stoplight town of about 3,700 in the northwest corner of the Northwest Territories, to grow their own vegetables under the midnight sun.

Summer student Brandi Lemishka's mother and her boyfriend have had a plot for three years, and tend produce such as the lettuce they have been eating for the past three weeks. "It's a lot better for them because then they don't have to go spend so much money on their food, because up here it costs a lot of money," said Ms. Lemishka, who enters Grade 11 in the fall.

At North Mart, Inuvik's grocery store, romaine lettuce was selling late last week for $3.79 a head. Small heads of iceberg lettuce were $1.79. Red peppers cost $6.21 a pound (0.45 kilograms) and broccoli was $2.59 a pound

For transplanted southern green thumbs such as Ms. Young and Ms. Ewald, the greenhouse also provides an outlet for the most un-Arctic of pastimes.

"I think it's a hobby for a lot of people that they didn't expect to be able to do up here," said Ms. Young, 32, who studied horticulture in her native Ottawa.

And, as Ms. Ewald, 24, who moved to the tundra of Inuvik from Victoria in April, said, the facility offers newcomers "a gentle way of easing into a new ecosystem."

For its more than 100 members, not all of whom have plots, the greenhouse, which opens in May, is a meeting place and "an oasis in the North," as Ms. Young put it. Families bring picnics or just pass the time soaking up the warmth and fragrant flowers. "It's always nice in here no matter what the weather is outside," she said.

The greenhouse, which receives funding from the territorial and federal governments, aboriginal groups and businesses, is also a community-development project that plays host to school groups, workshops and even tourists.

"It's amazing what can be grown on such a small square footage," said retiree Robert Harrison of Kingston, Ont., who toured the greenhouse with his wife Linda last week. "Square-inch gardening -- this is good," Ms. Harrison said.

The greenhouse is so popular there is a waiting list of residents eager to dig their fingers into its 88 raised plots, which are about 18 inches (46 centimetres) deep and can even nurture potatoes. The large ones are 16 by 4 feet (5 by 1 metres) and cost $50 a year to rent. The small ones, which are 8 by 4 feet (2.5 by 1 metres), are $25.

Many are thick with lush vegetables, from sprawling squash to onions to beets. One is even trying musk melon. A few have built-on supports for hanging flower baskets and latticework for climbing plants. One has delicate red, pink and white poppies. Some are whimsical, with a decorative scarecrow and a green smiling caterpillar. A few are neglected, with parched earth and stunted plants.

The greenhouse's growing season is like that in Southern Canada: from about the second week of May until early October, a stark contrast to outdoors. The last snowfall or frost in Inuvik is often in mid-June and starts again in late August.

The town's 24-hour daylight -- which lasts from about mid-May until mid-August and streams in through the roof's greenhouse glazing -- is a gardener's boon. One woman who keeps careful records says vegetables tend to mature one week to 10 days earlier.

But, as Ms. Young notes, the ever-present sunlight also has its drawbacks. If the weather is especially hot, the building can overheat and some vegetables, such as spinach, can go straight to seed. By contrast, if the weather is overcast for extended periods, tomatoes and other vegetables rot on the vine.

The greenhouse, which bans herbicides and pesticides, encourages its gardeners, who supply their own seeds, to add organic material to the poor-quality soil, which can have high sand or clay content. It does not prohibit the use of commercial fertilizers such as Miracle-Gro, but hopes to start a community compost program.

Article care of the City Gardener

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बीज से प्याज कैसे विकसित करने के


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Welcome to the Garden of Eaden site. My apologies to those of you who who are unable to read the script below - which is in Hindi - as I am trying a small experiment. There are a significant number of readers who log on from India and this is my attenpt to make things a little easier for them. We shall see what happens over the next couple of days!

जब बीज से मुख्य फसल प्याज बढ़ रही है, रहस्य तैयारी में है. अगर तुम कैसे सबसे प्रदर्शकों उनके प्याज पुरस्कार जीतने बढ़ने को देखो, यह बीज से हमेशा ताकि आप एक अच्छी शुरुआत के लिए पर पहले से ही कर रहे हैं. आप के साथ शुरू करने के लिए अच्छा जल निकासी के साथ एक धूप साइट की जरूरत है लेकिन प्रमुख के लिए उन्हें एक स्थायी बिस्तर में बढ़ने के क्रम में करने के लिए मिट्टी की उर्वरता का निर्माण होता है. वहाँ यह करने के लिए एक नीचे की ओर तथापि के रूप में आप भी रोगों के निर्माण को प्रोत्साहित कर सकते है. के साथ कि मन में यह सलाह दी जाती है के लिए समय समय वनस्पति उद्यान के आराम के साथ अपने बिस्तर प्याज घुमाएगी.

यदि आप, खुदाई से अच्छी तरह से सड़ खेत खाद की खूब में अपने शरद ऋतु में प्याज बिस्तर की तैयारी शुरू करते हैं. इस जमीन के लिए एक सर्दियों की अवधि में बसा है और frosts नीचे मिट्टी clods तोड़ने के लिए अनुमति का मौका देंगे. यदि आप भी अम्लीय मिट्टी है - पीएच 5.5 से नीचे - आप इसे करने के लिए नींबू के अनुसार सिफारिशों बनाती जोड़ने की आवश्यकता होगी. सामान्य में, प्याज 6 के बीच और 7.5 का एक pH पसंद करते हैं.

यह संभव है भारी धरती पर अच्छा प्याज बढ़ती है, लेकिन आप पहले planting से पहले जल निकासी में सुधार करना होगा. बागवानी धैर्य और भारी मिट्टी में कार्बनिक पदार्थ का सेवन जोड़ें और फिर मिट्टी 4 से आगे मिट्टी की नमी को कम उच्च इंच का एक रिज बना सकते हैं.


आप मुख्य फसल प्याज के बीज के रूप में अपनी मिट्टी जैसे ही बोना अनुमति जो देर फरवरी से किसी भी समय किया जा सकता है सकते हैं, लेकिन आप एक सूखे दिन उठा एक कुछ हफ्तों बुआई समय से पहले और raking एक ठीक करने के लिए मिट्टी से एक मार्च यहां चोरी कर सकते हैं. जोताई. एक फर्म बिस्तर की तरह प्याज ताकि क्षेत्र तुम सिर्फ उठाया है पर चलने के लिए. अतिरिक्त प्रजनन के लिए growmore की तरह एक सामान्य उर्वरक जोड़ने का प्रयास करें, और एक भी पहले की फसल के लिए आपको जनवरी में कांच या cloches तहत प्याज बीज बोना कर सकते हैं.

एक सूखी दिन चुनें करने के लिए प्याज बीज बोना जब मिट्टी नम लेकिन नहीं भी गीला है, तो बीज इंच गहरा साढ़े अभ्यास में बहुत बारीकी संयंत्र. आप एक से अधिक पंक्ति रोपण कर रहे हैं तब प्रत्येक पंक्ति के अलावा कम से कम 9 इंच होना चाहिए. ध्यान से मिट्टी और पानी के साथ धीरे प्याज बीज आवरण अंदर लगभग 21 दिनों के अंकुरण तो लेने के लिए आना चाहिये. एक बार नई पौध के लिए मिट्टी के माध्यम से धक्का लगा, वे 1 और 2 के बीच इंच के अलावा बाहर हो thinned कर सकते हैं. कुछ और हफ्तों के बाद इन आगे हर एक 4-5 इंच करने के लिए संयंत्र के लिए किया जा सकता है बाहर thinned. दूर अपने इतनी के रूप में खारिज करने के लिए thinning प्याज मक्खी को आकर्षित नहीं सभी स्पष्ट याद रखें.

आप नए अंकुरण इन प्याज शूटिंग पर आ विशेष नजर रखने की जरूरत अक्सर जिज्ञासु पक्षियों की ओर ध्यान आकर्षित होगा - विशेष रूप से कबूतरों और काले पक्षियों - जो अपने किशोर फसलों कुछ नहीं के लिए एक शरारती छोटी से अधिक बीज बेड के सीधे बाहर उठा लूँगा मजेदार है. यदि आप स्थान में सुरक्षा के कुछ प्रकार की जरूरत नहीं है तुम अंत लगभग एक पूरी फसल खो सकते हैं!

प्याज बहुत दबा घास विकास में अच्छे नहीं हैं, और अगर नियमित निराई वे आसानी से बाहर हो अपनी फसल में जिसके परिणामस्वरूप पोषक तत्वों के लिए प्रतिस्पर्धा हो जाएगा अवरुद्ध उपेक्षित है. करने के लिए पंक्तियों के बीच पर्याप्त जगह छोड़ने के लिए निराई के लिए में अपने कुदाल पाने की कोशिश करो, लेकिन हमेशा हाथ से कोई भी अपने प्याज के करीब मातम घास के रूप में वे आसानी से उद्यान उपकरण द्वारा क्षतिग्रस्त किया जा सकता है.

करने के लिए प्याज का एक अच्छा साल के दौर की आपूर्ति को बनाए रखने, तुम देर से गर्मियों में जो फसल के लिए तैयार जून से किया जाना चाहिए के दौरान एक दूसरे रोपण कर सकते हैं. हालांकि, इस दूसरा बोने की सिफारिश नहीं है अगर तुम भारी, खराब सूखा मिट्टी है. सामान्य में, प्याज लंबे समय के लिए अपनी अधिकतम आकार तक पहुँच संभव के रूप में एक से बढ़ के मौसम के रूप में दिया जाना चाहिए.

अपने मुख्य फसल प्याज सितंबर-अगस्त बीच किसी भी समय कटाई दोनों मौसम और व्यक्तिगत किस्म पर निर्भर करता है के लिए तैयार रहना चाहिए. प्याज बल्ब परिपक्व जब पत्ते पीले रंग बदल जाता है और अधिक टिप करने के लिए शुरू होता होगा, लेकिन आप उन्हें उठाने से पहले सप्ताह के एक और जोड़ी के लिए जाने की जरूरत होगी.

एक सूखी दिन चुनें और अगर प्याज पूरी तरह पका रहे हैं वे आसानी से जमीन, किसी भी समस्याओं से उठा और आप ध्यान से उन्हें एक हाथ कांटा का उपयोग कर सकते हैं आसानी से मिट्टी बाहर होगा. वे अब सूखे होने की जरूरत होगी और मौसम या आपके प्याज का आकार लगभग 2-4 इस सप्ताह लेने से पहले वे उन्हें ठीक से रसोई घर के लिए तैयार कर रहे हैं इलाज करने के लिए करेगा पर निर्भर करता है. यदि आपके प्याज के किसी भी मोटी 'गर्दन' को विकसित किया है बढ़ती मौसम में, इन लोगों को सीधे प्रयोग के रूप में वे अच्छी तरह से दुकान नहीं है और अधिक गर्दन सड़ांध होने का खतरा हो जाएगा.

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CLUBROOT IN BRASSICAS


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Clubroot is a serious disease that can affect crops from the brassica family. It is a fungal (although more correctly known as a slime mould) infection which attacks the plant through the soil via its root hairs. In a short period of time this will lead to massive swelling, distortion and severely retarded growth. Worst still, the fungus produces cysts that will remain in the soil until a suitable host comes available to re-infect, starting the cycle again. The biggest problem is that these cysts can live in the soil for up to 20 years and are easily spread. In fact, just walking from an infected area onto a clean patch of land will infect your soil. Be aware that club root disease will also easily contaminate your soil if it is brought in on infected plants, so do not accept brassica seedlings where the source is not known to be clean.

Club root can infect whenever the soil is moist and warm, so be aware that most new infections will tend to occur from mid-summer until late autumn.

Symptoms of Club RootThe first sign is a characteristic wilting of your plants, especially in dry weather. These infected plants will fail to develop properly and often the crop will fail. As mentioned before, by examining the roots you will notice unusual distortions and swellings.

Organic Control of Club RootThe first thing that you should know is that – at least in Great Britain – there is no available chemical control for Club Root, so if you do have clubroot in your soil then you are going to be stuck with it. Even so, it is still possible to grow brassica crops successfully with some careful cultivation techniques.

Firstly, it is important to practice good hygiene. When your brassica crops have been harvested, finished carefully remove all the roots but DO NOT compost them, treat them either as household waste or burn them in an incinerator. Remember that the brassica family also includes radishes and mustard, so do not use a mustard green manure on your land and remove radishes that have gone over and again burn them, do not compost them. This will help to reduce the number of clubroot fungal spores and cysts left lying in the soil.

Keep down susceptible weeds like shepherd’s purse, charlock, and wild radish as this will also help to control the club roots life cycle.

Start your brassicas off in modules using fresh, sterilized compost to which a small amount of lime has been added, then pot them up to between 3 inch or 5 inch pots before planting out. This allows the plant to develop a good root system prior to a possible infection.

Club root can be reduced, but not eliminated in open ground, by improving drainage and raising the soil pH by liming. On acid soils, lime at the rate of 500g per sq m (15oz per sq yd), with lighter dressings of 270g per sq m (8oz per sq yd) in future years. Before planting, you may wish to try digging a decent sized hole- at least 1ft deep - and then dusting the sides and base of the hole with lime before planting your seedlings.

Consider using club root resistant brassica varieties, but remember - this is resistance and not total immunity.

Clubroot Resistant Varieties
Brussels sprouts ‘Crispus’
Cauliflower ‘Clapton’
Cauliflower ‘Clarify’
Cabbage ‘Kilaton’
Cabbage ‘Kilaxly’
Cabbage ‘Kilazol’


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BEES AND BIODIVERSITY



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Our native bees and honey bees are responsible for pollinating the majority of flowering plants in this country, which in turn, produce many of our crops. In fact many of our fruits, vegetable and nut crops rely solely on insect pollination and it's believed that at least 1/3rd of our diet is directly dependant on the relationship of flowers and their pollination by bees.

In the spring of 2008 around one third of honey bees were lost in the UK, and while it’s not entirely clear what had caused this massive population drop, if such loses continue it will have a devastating effect on the countries crop production. Such figures have also brought to light the importance of native English bumble bees to crop pollination should honey bee populations eventually crash.


There used to be about 27 species of native bee within the UK, but with the introduction of intensive farming after the Second World War about 95% of natural flower-rich pastureland was lost to us when it was turned over to edible crops. As a result of this, two species of our native bees have already become extinct while general native bee populations are in decline. If - at the every least - native bumble bee populations can be sustained, then at least there is some hope for the future of UK crop production. However for a more 'fruitfull' future, steps will need to be taken to allow more land to return back into its natural 'wildflower' state, and for pesticide use to be more closely regulated.

The time to make a difference and stop the decline in native bee populations is long overdue, and with front and back gardens accounting for approximately 1 million hectares, even a slight change in the selections of ornamental plants that we grow, could have an enormous effect on our dwindling bee populations. The problem with native bumble bees is that they are unable to store large amounts of honey and this requires them to feed from a continual supply of nectar rich flowers. Without a constant supply, the honey resources within the nest can become quickly depleted and leaving the bees and their larvae to starve to death. As Albert Einstein observed ‘...No more bees, no more pollination, no more plants, no more man...’

Biodiversity Begins with a B is a darkly comic look at the importance of bees to our natural environment. It features the voice of Scots comedian Phil Kay and encourages people to take a few simple actions to help support the variety of living things around us.

You can help biodiversity by:

* Featuring the film on your website or blog (video embed code below)

* Sharing the film via social networks like Facebook and Twitter

* Sharing the film internally within your organisation

If you’d like more information about biodiversity, the Scottish Natural Heritage website (http://www.snh.gov.uk) and the Convention on Biological Diversity website (http://www.cbd.int/) are fantastic resources.

Many thanks for your support.

Simon Eade

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HOW TO CONTROL CODLING MOTH ON APPLES


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The codling moth is well known as a common and worldwide pest of apples. Unfortunately, this name is a little misleading as it is actually the caterpillar of the codling moth that does all the damage.

The adult moths are most active on warm nights during the months of June and July but even so, these moths are small and inconspicuous and are unlikely to be noticed. The female moths lay their eggs individually on the fruits and leaves of the apple tree which then hatch out into caterpillars a couple of weeks later. Once free of the egg, the codling moth caterpillar will immediately turn it attention to locating and tunnelling into the nearest developing fruit.

SYMPTOMSPut simply, the caterpillars tunnel extensively in to the flesh of maturing apples, making them inedible. Unfortunately, by the time that you realise your apple crop has codling moth – the damage has – most probably - already been done.

CONTROL
It is difficult to control codling moth using chemicals as the timing of your chemical application will need to be accurate enough to catch the caterpillars after they hatch from the eggs, but before they enter the fruits. In fact on larger apple trees chemical spraying may be ‘fruitless’, just because the area of the tree makes it inaccessible for effective spray coverage.

If you are still planning to spray for codling moth then you would need to do so in two stages. The first application is made after the apple tree has blossomed, then a second application three weeks later. WARNING! Make sure that your chemical is suitable for use on edible crops before you apply!

A far safer method is to use pheromone traps, but these are only effective to a point! There are two types; the first has a pheromone that only attracts the male codling moth. This type of trap has a sticky base that prevents the male moth from flying away once it has landed. In turn this stops the trapped male from fertilising any female codling moths.

The second type is far more effective, attracting both male and female codling moths to the trap. They are lured by a pheromone which tricks them into thinking they are about to have a sexual encounter. However the trap is not there to prevent them from flying off - it has a more diabolical plan in store! The base of the trap is full of a virus that is known to kill the codling moth larvae. The moth leaves frustrated, but now it is full of the virus which it then passes on to other moths when it finally manages have a successful sexual encounter.

This eventually leads to the contamination of eggs laid by the virus infected female moths, as well as the site around them. The larvae are killed by eating the virus left on the redundant egg case or on nearby foliage.

Unfortunately, codling moth pheromone traps are not terribly effective in the grand scheme of things. In fact research has shown that one viral pheromone trap is only likely to infect 5% of the population of codling moths in an area of 1 hectare. However, by monitoring sticky traps in conjunction with chemical control, you can get a far more accurate timing in which to spray for codling moth caterpillars, therefore reducing the need for wasteful and indiscriminate chemical spraying.

Alternatively -and this will need to be in place by July - consider using greace bands or even try tying sack-cloth or corrugated cardboard around the branches and tree trunks of your apple tree. This will act as a barrier method in preventing codling moth caterpillars reaching the maturing apples. However this is unlikely to reduce the number of egg-laying females codling moths in the following seasons as they can easily fly in from adjacent untreated trees.

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HOW TO GROW GIANT CABBAGES



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There is something almost magical about growing giant vegetables, and for those few who chose to do so, their techniques are often shrouded in secrecy. However, while there are undoubtedly a number of hard earned family secrets that you will never get to know about, the one thing that you can't do with out is the seed. And not just any seed. The seed for growing giant vegetables would have been specially selected - often from a long line of show winners - from a lineage that can date back as far as the 19th century. The simple fact is that with out the right seed your attempt at growing giant vegetablkes is likely to fail. However, should you be able to get your hands on the real worlds equivalent of 'Magic Beans' then you are welcome to try my cultivation tips for the perfect giant cabbage.

When growing giant cabbages you will need to sow your seed quite early on in the year – around about the beginning of February – in order to achieve some proper giant-sized cabbages come the autumn. You will also need to start them off under protection in order to achieve a quick germination; otherwise their growing season won’t be long enough for them to reach their optimum size. Fill the tray to overflowing with John Innes ‘Seed and Cutting’ compost then lift the tray up and tap it down on the bench twice to consolidate the compost. Use a level, flat piece of wood to level off the compost by sliding it along the edges of the seed tray and finally use a flat board to lightly flatten and level the compost Do not compact the compost as this will drive all of the air out of it which in turn can reduce root growth

One seed tray will take about 25 seeds but space the seed out individually so that each germinated seedling will have the optimum amount of space to develop. Lightly cover the seed over with the same compost, but this time pass the compost through a fine garden sieve. Sit your prepared tray into a second – slightly larger - tray holding no more than an inch or so of water. Allow the water to be naturally absorbed into the compost until all of it is moist – you may need to add more water to the bottom tray in order to achieve this. You will know when the compost it saturated with water as the surface of the compost will change from a light brown to a dark brown colour.

After covering the seed with the fine compost give the surface a spray of water through a hand sprayer. This will ensure that the seed are not disturbed and keeps them at the same depth that you sowed them. At this point you can cover the seed tray with glass until the first seedlings emerge or give the surface a light spray of water on a daily basis or if it looks like the surface compost is likely to dry out.

Place the seed tray in a propagator to germinate or leave on the bench if your greenhouse is heated to a minimum of 50°F.

After the seedlings have germinated and showing two strong seedling leaves, transplant the seedlings into individual small pots or modules.

With giant cabbages, they must be looked after in order to achieve their optimum size and quality. Right up until they are planted outside, they will need to be re-potted on to a larger sized pot on a regular basis – at least until the weather has settled sufficiently to plant them out with out the risk of damage from late frosts.

You also need to make sure that you spend adequate time in hardening off giant cabbage plants. Put them outside too early and you will not only risk physical damage to them but you can also cause a check to their growth. Start off by placing them in a ventilated cold frame during the day but remember to bring them back in over night. After a week or so - and when overnight temperature stabilize – you can eventually start to leave them out overnight in the cold frame. After another week they should be able to leave the cold frame altogether and be placed out into a sheltered area.

When it comes to planting you giant cabbages out into their final position, it is all about preparation Plant them in a well manured plot that ideally is free from club root disease. If you do have clubroot you can still achieve some really commendable heads by saturating the planting hole with a dilution of Armillatox made to the makers recommended strength. Before planting, liberally dust the hole with lime.

To get really the large heads on your giant cabbages you must give them ample room for development, it’s no use at all planting them out a foot apart and eighteen inches between the rows, as they will not be able to achieve a large enough size. Ideally and for the really big sized heads, they need to be at least a metre apart and likewise between the rows. When they are planted out initially this sort of spacing will look a bit ridiculous and your young plants will appear lost on the soil when your giant cabbages really start growing in earnest, you’ll be struggling to work your way in between them.

GROWING TIPS. One of the key things to growing giant cabbages is plenty of Nitrogen, they need it in order to produce the huge amounts of large sized leaves. Regularly use a high nitrogen liquid feed, particularly during the initial stages to start the plants on the road to giantdom. Regular watering is just as important, particularly if you are growing over a hot summer. Forget to feed and water and your crop of giant cabbage will end up as just another crop of greens.

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Main Photo - Clappers.grit.com

WHAT IS DAMPING OFF DISEASE?


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Damping off is one of the most common and troublesome types of horticultural diseases. It can affect all types of seedlings, but is most problematic on fast growing ornamental seedlings such as antirrhinums, lobelias, nemesias, petunias, salvias and stocks, or vegetable seedlings like cabbages, cress, lettuces, tomatoes, peas and beans.

Symptoms can be varied but without treatment all result in plant death. Often, young seedlings are seen rapidly collapsing in small - roughly circular - patches, or the seedlings may just become progressively weaker with shrivelled stems. Sometimes, the root system simply rots away. In larger seedlings, and even young plants, you may also witness leaf spotting or other discoloration, and sometimes grey mould displayed on the stems or leaves.

There are a number of organisms that cause damping off, which is why the symptoms are varied. The most common ones that cause dying out in patches are the fungi Pythium and Rhizoctonia solani, surviving as spores in the soil. Stem lesions are often caused by soil-borne species of Alternaria and leaf spots are generally associated with soil-borne Phyllosticta and Pseudomonas fungi. The grey mould that is often seen accompanying damping off is caused by Botrytis cinerea.

Treatment is difficult in the garden environment. Though some chemical controls have been employed in commercial practices, they are not yet available for use on a small scale. For the amateur or small-scale grower hygiene at all stages of propagation is essential. If your seedlings are prone to damping off then only use cleaned and disinfected pots and seed trays, and make sure that greenhouse benches are sterile. Mains water and a proprietary sterilised seed compost, which is moist but not over wet, should also be used. Don't assume all bought compost is sterile, as most is not.

Small quantities of compost for seed sowing can be sterilised by 'cooking' in an oven at 150C for an hour or so. Be awear that care should be taken when using water other than tap water as this may be another sourse of fungal infection. All storage tanks should be regularly cleaned and disinfected regularly, and preference should always be given to tap water on susceptible plants.

Avoid stressing plants and seedlings by preventing waterlogging and high humidity as this will make them more vulnerable and prone to attack. Sow seed thinly and prick out as soon as possible. Also, handle the seedlings by their leaves, and not the stems. Do not re-use compost that has been affected by damping off disease and if only part of the seed tray has shown symptoms remove all the affected seedlings - including a barrier of a few extra seedlings - and the affected compost. Water with Cheshunt Compound or similar fungicide to help prevent any further spread. Cheshunt Compound can also be used as a soil drench prior to seed sowing as a preventative measure, but this will not completely eradicate all problems. It can only be used as a preventative aid.
.

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Article courtesy of Thompson and Morgan

HOW TO GROW TOMATO SEED


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Tomatoes are grown as tender annual plants in most regions, but they are actually classed as short lived perennials in the tropics of south America - their native environment. The ripened fruit can range in colour from red and orange right through to white, yellow and green. In shape, they can start from tiny currant sized fruit right up to the giant beefsteak variety, but this will depend on the actual variety grown. Tomatoes will require high light intensity but to get the best out of the crop they will need to be grown at a temperature of 21 - 24C, however they will lose vigour if kept above 27C or below 16C . Remember that tomato plants will not tolerate frost.

Sowing the Seed
Tomato seed is quite easy to handle and is best germinated using a standard seed tray filled with John Innes Seed and Cutting compost. Space the seed evenly and then covered with about 1.5mm of compost. Tomato seedlings will usually germinate in about 7 to 14 days at a temperature of around 21C . For the best sowing times, see the recommendations in 'greenhouse' or 'outdoor' cultivation below. Pot tomato seedlings on when they are large enough to handle without touching the stem.

Just by handling the leaves, transplant them carefully into 3in pots using John Innes No.1 potting compost. If only a few plants are required sow two seeds into a 3inch pot and after germination remove the smaller plant. Take care not to let the plant and seedlings get cold as frost, cold winds and draughts will cause the plants to turn bluish and in most cases die. If you live in a cold area wait a few weeks extra until the air temperature has risen a bit more. Check the compost at all stages for dryness. This is vital in the germination stages as drought can cause poor germination or failure to germinate at all. If this is the case, add a little clean water from below, being careful not to over water. Too much water can kill seedlings, as it can spread water borne fungal diseases such as 'damping off'

Greenhouse Cultivation
For greenhouse tomatoes first pick a recommended variety such as 'Santa', 'Matador', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Supersteak' and sow as directed on the individual seed packet. This will generally be from late December/early January onwards and straight into 3in pots.

Plant the young plants when they are about 6-8in tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open. If you are planting into your greenhouse border make sure you have dug in plenty of garden compost or peat during the winter. If you have used the border before for tomatoes, it is better to change the soil or sterilise it before using it for tomatoes again. This will help avoid soil pests and root diseases becoming a problem. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more then two plants per bag.

Outdoor Cultivation
For growing tomatoes outside, first pick a recommended variety such as 'Gardeners Delight', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Sweet 100' or try 'Tumbler' in a flower pouch or hanging basket.

Wait until approximately 6-8 weeks before the last frost is forecast and sow as directed on the individual seed packet in 7.5cm (3in) pots.

When all risk of frost has past and when the plants are about 15-20cm (6-8in) tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open, you can plant them out. If you are planting into your border make sure you have dug in plenty of garden compost or peat during the winter. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18 in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more than two plants per bag

Training Plants

How to train or when to pick your fruit will depend on the varieties and types of tomatoes grown. Cordon (indeterminate) varieties will need side shooting, determinate varieties may stop flower production after several trusses, but upward growth can be carried on by training up the topmost side shoot. Bush varieties remain low and need no side shoot removal. See individual seed packets for further information. Tomatoes require a lot of water and feed to get the best fruit. Water little and often for the best results. Feed with a general liquid feed until the first truss is formed then alternate with a high potash feed. This will encourage more flowers and fruit.

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टमाटर बीज कैसे विकसित करने के

CHITTING POTATOES


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Chitting (sometimes known as sprouting) potatoes is one of those practices handed down through the generations that appears to encapsulate the mysteries of gardening. It's one of the jobs that gardeners will do without question but when you ask them why they do it - most of them won't have an answer.

Compared to the potatoes natural habitat of 'sub-tropical' South America, the English climate isn't perhaps the first place you would think to grow these staple crops, but with centuries of selective breeding the modern potato now does very well in our soils. There is one problem that still remains and that is our comparatively short growing season, and this is where the art of chitting potatoes comes in.

While our soil temperature remain below about 10 degrees Celsius not much will happen as the potato - a modified storage organ - is in a state of natural dormancy. Left to their own devices, by the time the soil has warmed up sufficiently to break the dormancy period and begin the new season growth, the majority of potato plants won't be ready to crop until the late summer or even autumn.

The reality of this growth cycle means that we need to 'force' the seed potatoes into growth artificially by introducing light and heat - normally provided by a warm, well lit room. This stimulates the production of new shoots and kick starts the potato out of it normal dormancy. This will also reduce the time until cropping from anywhere between 1 and 2 months.

There are other advantages to breaking the dormancy by chittings as modern early cultivars will crop far earlier and more heavily. You can help the process further by rubbing off all but the four strongest sprouts so that the tuber's energy is diverted into a few really strong shoots that will form the new potatoes as early as possible. Second early and maincrop potatoes also benefit from chitting but they don't need a thinning out of the sprouts. Chitting late cropping varieties will result in them producing their foliage earlier and hopefully produce new potatoes before being hit with infections of potato blight or problems with summer droughts. Again, they will mature earlier and can be gathered before slugs do too much damage the tubers.

You can buy seed potatoes from as early as January but it is probably better to wait until the beginning or middle of February before you begin chitting potatoes. Put the seed potatoes into a box where they can be supported in an upright position - cardboard egg boxes are ideal for this – and place them indoors into a light and airy position. During this time they will require a cool temperature of a little over 10 degrees Celsius. Position them so that the end which has the most eyes (dormant sprouts) are uppermost and the 'stalk' end where they were severed from the parent plant is at the bottom. The new sprouts will form in a couple of weeks and - as mentioned before - its good practice to remove the weaker sprouts leaving four of the strongest to continue. As a general rule of thumb it will normally take about six weeks to chit a batch of potatoes.

If the weather is unsuitable at the time of planting then you can remove all of the sprouts and start again. Also, if you have positioned some of your potatoes upside down, and the potatoes sprout from the wrong end, simply rub off the sprouts and turn the potato the right way up. Keep them where they are while the shoots are developing and they can stay there until they are ready for planting later on in March.

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WHAT DO EARTHWORMS EAT?



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What a worm eats will depend on where in the soil they live as they can be found living both close to the surface or much deeper underground.

On the surface, worms will eat a variety of organic materials, such as dead grass, any other larger leaf material and even decaying animals! However there are a huge variety of microscopic organisms that also live on these food sources. This allows earth worms to not only feast on the decaying matter but also a 'balanced diet' of algae, fungi and bacteria - essential for a healthy lifestyle!

Worms that live deeper under the ground have a diet that is primarily raw soil, but these worms survive once again by digesting the bacteria, fungi and algae found living there. The soil passes through the worm and comes out as what is known as worm casts. This is a nicer way of saying worm poo! However, these casts are also beneficial to your garden plants due to their nutritional value. In their search for food worms also naturally aerate the soil, improving the root environment for your plants.

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