EADEN FILMS

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After a very steep learning curve and not much to show for it, I have decided release all of my short films for permanent viewing. They are placed in order of their production so that everyone can see how bad I was in the beginning now that I have reached the heady heights of 1970's mediocrity.

If you laugh at least one of them, then I for one believe that I have done my job. I hope that you enjoy them.

Click on the link to watch the film.

HOW TO TORMENT YOUR BROTHER - The worm sandwich








SISSINGHURST CASTLE AND ITS SECRET HISTORY










MIND BENDING MAGIC OF THE AMAZING MAROLIA








MY LITTLEHAMPTON - A history of promise








Gardenofeaden

LITTLEHAMPTON - A History of Promise

WANT TO BUY RARE AND UNUSUAL SEEDS? THEN CLICK HERE FOR THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' SEED SHOP

The seaside town of Littlehampton, home to the Body Shop, the contentious East Beach Cafe and – of course - the world’s longest bench!

While its status of a prosperous port and holiday destination brought it economic success during the 19th and 20th centuries, Littlehampton’s industry has since been in decline, and as such, this once flourishing seaside resort is now better known as a home to the single parent family and the motability scooter. In fact so popular is the motability scooter around Littlehampton, there appears to be a growing underground culture of serious pimping!

Of course there is more to Littlehampton than just a struggling social class. The harbour has been witness to centuries of shipping activity which dates back to roman times.

The fishing industry was once very strong, with lobsterpots and nets being assembled all along the pier road. In fact, even an oyster bed was found off the local beaches and the Oyster Pond – a well known land mark - was later created in 1822 to store them – of course now it’s just a regular pond.

As the coal and timber trade declined during the 20th century, agricultural imports increased. Then from 1967 the harbour began to receive thousands of tons of limestone, granite and other heavy stone, unfortunately this trade also went into decline as the port was unable to compete with the likes of Southampton, Shoreham and Newhaven – all of which were able to receive much larger vessels.

Littlehampton’s future now lies mainly with leisure activities, but it does serve a lifeboat station – made famous for becoming the base for the first ever Blue Peter lifeboat.

The river Arun, around which the town of Littlehampton was built, has a history of dropping tons of sediment at the river mouth which can silt up its entrance. Over the centuries huge amounts of work has been carried out to both secure and increase the accessibility of the harbour which resulted in the east and west piers being extended out into sea in the late 1700’s.
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The current lighthouse was constructed near the entrance of the east pier in 1948. Its predecessors included the well liked ‘Salt and Pepper Pots’. Unfortunately these were demolished during the Second World War because they provided clear landmarks for attacking the harbour. The pier itself is rather an overstatement of perhaps no more than 100 meters in length. However it does offer a fantastic view of the west pier – a huge wooden breakwater created from wooden piling that reaches far out into the Littlehampton Channel.

The harbour has also played a part in military operations. Henry VIII ships used Littlehampton Harbour as a supply port around the time of the flag ship - the Mary Rose. The Mary Rose accidentally sank in the Solent during an engagement with the French fleet in 1545.

During the Napoleonic wars a defensive fort was constructed on the western side of the harbour mouth in 1854. Unfortunately after 16 years it was inspected and found to be inadequate to defend the harbour due to the advances of modern artillery. That being the case it was dismantled in 1891 - but the rampart and Carnot wall are still in place and be seen from the West beach nature reserve.

Littlehampton has also had its fair share or celebrities – although no-one of note has been seen recently. During its heyday it had an almost hypnotic draw to the rich and famous including Shelley, Coleridge, and Lord Byron. Lord Byron actually swam the river which is no mean feat as the river Arun is one of the fastest of all the British rivers. He is seen here in a portrait which I presume to have been taken immediately after his swim. And, not least of course, was John Constable, who painted the harbour in 1835. Even Samuel Pepys – Admiralty inspector and famous diarist visited the Harbour during the 1660’s in order to keep a check the quality of timber that was being brought in to build admiralty ships.

Perhaps the most famous Englishman in history – Horatio Nelson - also found time to visit Littlehampton. Nelson was on a ship here in 1801 when Admiral Phillip returned orders to him in the Port. However he was not aboard HMS Victory as it was being repaired at the time – a tenuous link perhaps, but the town needs all the recognition it can get!

So what does the future hold for Littlehampton. Well in this current age of economic crisis perhaps not much or maybe just more of the same? However, at least some of the area’s natural beauty has national protection as this coastal area of west beach is now a site of special scientific interest. This area includes sand flats, the tide line, vegetated shingle, and sand dunes. This also includes the plants, birds, molluscs, reptiles and mammals which either live or feed on them. The most interesting of which are probably the cormorants, sand lizards and oyster catchers.

Although Littlehampton may no longer be a home to the beautiful people, it is still – and now likely to remain - an area of stunning natural beauty.

.For other films click onto:
HOW TO TORMENT YOUR BROTHER - The worm sandwich
SISSINGHURST CASTLE AND ITS SECRET HISTORY
MY LITTLEHAMPTON - A history of promise

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HOW TO GROW POTATOES

WANT TO BUY VEGETABLE SEEDS? THEN CLICK HERE FOR THE 'SEEDS OF EADEN' SEED SHOP

While soil temperatures remain below about 10 degrees Celsius not much will happen as the potato - a modified storage organ - will be in a state of natural dormancy. Left to their own devices, by the time the soil has warmed up sufficiently to break the dormancy period and begin the new season growth the majority of potato plants won't be ready to crop until the late summer or even autumn. The reality of this growth cycle means that we need to 'force' the seed potatoes into growth artificially by introducing light and heat - normally provided by a well lit room. This stimulates the production of new shoots and kick starts the potato out of it normal dormancy and reduce the time until cropping from anywhere between 1 and 2 months. This is what is known as chitting or sprouting.

The Chitting or Sprouting Process

You can buy seed potatoes from as early as January but it is probably better to wait until the beginning or middle of February before you begin chitting. Put the seed potatoes into a box where they can be supported in an upright position - cardboard egg boxes are ideal for this – and place them indoors into a light and airy position. During this time they will require a cool temperature of a little over 10 degrees Celsius. Position them so that the end which has the most eyes (dormant sprouts) are uppermost and the 'stalk' end where they were severed from the parent plant is at the bottom. The new sprouts will form in a couple of weeks and as mentioned before its good practice to remove the weaker sprouts leaving four of the strongest to continue. As a general rule of thumb it will normally take about six weeks to chit a batch of potatoes.

Planting

Potatoes grow best in rich soil containing plenty of well rotted manure or compost. Do not use fresh compost as this will encourage slug damage problems and do not lime the soil as this can cause scab blemishes on developing tubers.

Planting times are not critical but will be dependant on weather, soil conditions and regional variations but below is a general guide.

PLANTING GUIDE

First Earlies:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 20ft (6m)
Planting distance in row: 12 inches (30cm) apart
Distance between rows: 24 inches (60cm)
Plant: from end February
Harvest from: 10 weeks from planting

Second Earlies:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 25ft (7.4m)
Planting distance in row: 15 inches (37cm) apart
Distance between rows: 30 inches (75cm)
Plant: from mid March
Harvest from: 13 weeks from planting

Early Maincrop:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 30ft (9m)
Planting distance in row: 18 inches (45cm) apart
Distance between rows: 30 inches (75cm)
Plant: from late March
Harvest from: 15 weeks from planting

Late Maincrop:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 30ft (9m)
Planting distance in row: 18 inches (45cm) apart
Distance between rows: 30 inches (75cm)
Plant: from late March
Harvest from: 20 weeks from planting

Potato Fertiliser
Consider using an application of pelleted, high potash fertiliser before planting your seed potatoes. A 3 kg bag sould be sufficient to plant 60 tubers, using 50g (just under 2oz) per tuber. Its application is a matter of personal choice, and to a certain extent will depend on the condition of your soil. You can incorporate 50g in each individual planting hole (as with any fertiliser it should not be in immediate contact with the tuber to avoid scorching), or you can incorporate 25g when planting and another 25g when first earthing up. If you plant in a trench instead of dibbing or using a trowel, then you can scatter the pellets along the trench or leave until you earth up.

Potatoes will grow best in slightly acidic soils which can be seasonally created by applying sulphur to the top of the potato ridge after planting. Applying sulphur maximizes the yield and deters skin blemishes like Common Scab.

After care

Most importantly protect emerging shoots from any frosts by carefully drawing soil over the shoots. Frost will blacken the shoots and delay the production of mature tubers. First and Second Earlies will require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when the tubers are starting to form. Earth up regularly as the plants develop.

Harvesting

Start to harvest First Earlies as 'new potatoes' when the plants come into flower, although not all varieties freely flower or flower over an extended period. Therefore, a more reliable method is the number of weeks from date of planting.

As a guideline, allow 10 weeks from planting for First Earlies, 13 weeks for Second Earlies, 15 weeks for Early Maincrops and 20 weeks for Late Maincrops. Lifting times will also depend on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period. Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have withered, to allow the skins to set.

Second Cropping Potatoes

Given the UK climate, I would recommend planting 2nd Cropping Potatoes in the first week of August. The absolute latest that you should be planting these seed potatoes is by the end of August. If planting in a protected environment (e.g. in a polytunnel or greenhouse) planting can be delayed by a week or so at the most but tubers must be planted by the end of the first week of September. Planting any later than this is likely to produce disappointing results. If planting is to be delayed from receipt of the tubers, ensure the tubers are stored in the refrigerator at no lower than 4°C until planting. 

There is no need to pre-chit the potatoes - this will happen quite naturally after planting. 'Ping-pong ball' sized tubers should be ready for harvesting approximately 10 to 11 weeks after planting. Tubers can be harvested as required, with the others being left in the ground. Cut down the haulms (stems) with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither/yellow or if they show signs of blight and protect from frost. We suggest covering with a thick layer of straw and/or sacking. These can then be lifted at Christmas time. The only potential problem with leaving them in the ground for this length of time is that they will be more susceptible to blight and pest attack (e.g. slugs, wireworm) - the longer they are in the ground, the more possibility there is of being exposed to these pests and diseases.

.Storing
For storing varieties, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin before storing in hessian sacks or in paper in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid polythene as potatoes will sweat and rot.

For related articles click onto:
Chitting Potatoes
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How to Grow Potatoes
How to Grow Potatoes in Pots or Containers
How to Grow Sweet Potatoes
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How to Plant Potatoes?
When are Potatoes ready for Harvest?
When to Harvest Potatoes
Why and How to Chit Potatoes

Article by courtesy of Thompson and Morgan

THE BEST FOODS FOR FLU'S AND COLDS

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Now that temperatures are dropping, our immune systems are collectively becoming more vulnerable to colds and the flu. It won’t be long before they make their presence felt around your workplace or your child’s school, causing the inevitable worthlessness and misery that comes with being firmly planted on the couch for several days. Fortunately, there is a way you can avoid the worst of the season. By eating right, you’ll not only feel better day-to-day, but you’ll also strengthen your immune system, lessening your chances of experiencing a bad cold or flu for an extended period of time. Here are the 15 best foods to eat — sick or not — in the coming months

1. Garlic: Incorporating garlic into your diet results in a myriad of long-term and short-term health benefits. It contains compounds that fight bacterial, viral, parasitic and fungal infections. Particularly helpful is allicin, which is the main component that blocks unwanted enzymes. The only downside of eating too much garlic is the resulting stinky breath, but it’s a small price to pay for strengthening your immune system.

2. Oregano: Oregano is known for possessing potent antioxidants that come with its plentiful flavonoids and phenolic acids. Of course, you can cook using the herb along with garlic, for example, to have an immune-boosting meal. Or you can take oil of oregano, which is packed with zinc, magnesium, calcium, iron, copper, potassium, boron and manganese.

3. Ginger: Tea, especially ginger tea, has long been a go-to home remedy for fighting colds. The root contains the anti-inflammatory agent shogaol, which has been rigorously studied to gain insight into its remarkable health benefits. Ginger primarily helps soothe headaches and nausea, and it can induce sweat in order to release toxins during the onset of a cold.

4. Oats: Oats are full of fiber, beta-glucans and vitamins B and E, making them advocates of both your immune system and digestive system. The flu or a tough cold can take a toll on your stomach, so it’s important that you take measures to ensure it remains in tip-top shape. Oats can be added in the preparation of meats, or you can simply purchase oatmeal or oat bran.

5. Mushrooms: Mushrooms are worthy virus and bacteria fighters because they unleash beta-glucans that stimulate the immune system, searching and destroying disease-causing cells. They make an excellent side dish or ingredient in an existing dish.

6. Broccoli: Broccoli promotes a strong immune system by providing glucosinolates, and it’s also a great source of vitamins A, C and E.

7. Cabbage: Cabbage is high in glucosinolates, vitamin C and fiber, and it can be used in a variety of dishes — it’s a potential ingredient for a cold-soothing stew, or if you’re a big fan of it, cabbage soup is an effective cold remedy.

8. Carrots: Carrots do more than just promote eye health. They increase the amount of infection-fighting cells with their production of beta-carotene. While some opt to eat carrots on their own, others choose to add them to a stew or drink them in juice-form.

9.Sweet Potatoes: Sweet potatoes contain lots of beta-carotene and fiber. They’re easy to toss in the oven and eat when you’re sick and don’t feel like concocting an entire meal.

10. Oranges: Oranges and other citrus fruits are rich in vitamin C, which increases the production of white blood cells and inhibits the entry of viruses by increasing interferon levels. A tall glass of freshly squeesed orange juice may keep the doctor away, as long as your aren’t experiencing stomach problems, in which case you’d be better off avoiding this highly acidic drink.

11. Lemons: Looking for even more vitamin C? Lemons provide 80 percent of your daily dosage. What’s more, they can be consumed in a stomach-friendly manner by diluting the juice with water, accelerating your recovery time.

12. Elderberries: Berries are also rich source of vitamin C and thus have always been a part of sick food diets. Particularly, the lesser known elderberry has a reputation for its flu fighting ability because of its large amount of vitamin C and phytochemicals that are antiviral and anti-inflammatory.

13. Yogurt: The live bacteria — or probiotics — in yogurt boost the immune system by protecting it against harmful bacteria, making the dairy product an essential addition to a complete anti-cold and flu diet. Mix in some sliced fruit and you’ll have a tasty snack that’s also filled with vitamins.

14. Honey: Honey is another sweet advocate of healthy bacteria. It’s also high in antioxidants, so adding it to tea or pouring it over food will do more than just enhance the taste. When you have a sore throat or persistent cough, honey will coat your throat, easing the irritation.

15. Oysters: Oysters may not seem like typical sick food, but they contribute to the immune system by adding zinc, which strengthens helper T cells. The result is that cells are more prepared to deal with invaders. If you can’t stomach the slimy mollusk, consider eating other seafood, chicken or beef.

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