The Garden of Eaden: November 2010

EADEN FILMS

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After a very steep learning curve and not much to show for it, I have decided release all of my short films for permanent viewing. They are placed in order of their production so that everyone can see how bad I was in the beginning now that I have reached the heady heights of 1970's mediocrity.

If you laugh at least one of them, then I for one believe that I have done my job. I hope that you enjoy them.Click on the link to watch the film.

HOW TO TORMENT YOUR BROTHER - The worm sandwich

SISSINGHURST CASTLE AND ITS SECRET HISTORY

MIND BENDING MAGIC OF THE AMAZING MAROLIA

MY LITTLEHAMPTON - A history of promise

LITTLEHAMPTON - A History of Promise

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The seaside town of Littlehampton, home to the Body Shop, the contentious East Beach Cafe and – of course - the world’s longest bench!

While its status of a prosperous port and holiday destination brought it economic success during the 19th and 20th centuries, Littlehampton’s industry has since been in decline, and as such, this once flourishing seaside resort is now better known as a home to the single parent family and the motability scooter. In fact so popular is the motability scooter around Littlehampton, there appears to be a growing underground culture of serious pimping!

Of course there is more to Littlehampton than just a struggling social class. The harbour has been witness to centuries of shipping activity which dates back to roman times.

The fishing industry was once very strong, with lobsterpots and nets being assembled all along the pier road. In fact, even an oyster bed was found off the local beaches and the Oyster Pond – a well known land mark - was later created in 1822 to store them – of course now it’s just a regular pond.

As the coal and timber trade declined during the 20th century, agricultural imports increased. Then from 1967 the harbour began to receive thousands of tons of limestone, granite and other heavy stone, unfortunately this trade also went into decline as the port was unable to compete with the likes of Southampton, Shoreham and Newhaven – all of which were able to receive much larger vessels.

Littlehampton’s future now lies mainly with leisure activities, but it does serve a lifeboat station – made famous for becoming the base for the first ever Blue Peter lifeboat.

The river Arun, around which the town of Littlehampton was built, has a history of dropping tons of sediment at the river mouth which can silt up its entrance. Over the centuries huge amounts of work has been carried out to both secure and increase the accessibility of the harbour which resulted in the east and west piers being extended out into sea in the late 1700’s.
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The current lighthouse was constructed near the entrance of the east pier in 1948. Its predecessors included the well liked ‘Salt and Pepper Pots’. Unfortunately these were demolished during the Second World War because they provided clear landmarks for attacking the harbour. The pier itself is rather an overstatement of perhaps no more than 100 meters in length. However it does offer a fantastic view of the west pier – a huge wooden breakwater created from wooden piling that reaches far out into the Littlehampton Channel.

The harbour has also played a part in military operations. Henry VIII ships used Littlehampton Harbour as a supply port around the time of the flag ship - the Mary Rose. The Mary Rose accidentally sank in the Solent during an engagement with the French fleet in 1545.

During the Napoleonic wars a defensive fort was constructed on the western side of the harbour mouth in 1854. Unfortunately after 16 years it was inspected and found to be inadequate to defend the harbour due to the advances of modern artillery. That being the case it was dismantled in 1891 - but the rampart and Carnot wall are still in place and be seen from the West beach nature reserve.

Littlehampton has also had its fair share or celebrities – although no-one of note has been seen recently. During its heyday it had an almost hypnotic draw to the rich and famous including Shelley, Coleridge, and Lord Byron. Lord Byron actually swam the river which is no mean feat as the river Arun is one of the fastest of all the British rivers. He is seen here in a portrait which I presume to have been taken immediately after his swim. And, not least of course, was John Constable, who painted the harbour in 1835. Even Samuel Pepys – Admiralty inspector and famous diarist visited the Harbour during the 1660’s in order to keep a check the quality of timber that was being brought in to build admiralty ships.

Perhaps the most famous Englishman in history – Horatio Nelson - also found time to visit Littlehampton. Nelson was on a ship here in 1801 when Admiral Phillip returned orders to him in the Port. However he was not aboard HMS Victory as it was being repaired at the time – a tenuous link perhaps, but the town needs all the recognition it can get!

So what does the future hold for Littlehampton. Well in this current age of economic crisis perhaps not much or maybe just more of the same? However, at least some of the area’s natural beauty has national protection as this coastal area of west beach is now a site of special scientific interest. This area includes sand flats, the tide line, vegetated shingle, and sand dunes. This also includes the plants, birds, molluscs, reptiles and mammals which either live or feed on them. The most interesting of which are probably the cormorants, sand lizards and oyster catchers.

Although Littlehampton may no longer be a home to the beautiful people, it is still – and now likely to remain - an area of stunning natural beauty.

.For other films click onto:
HOW TO TORMENT YOUR BROTHER - The worm sandwich
SISSINGHURST CASTLE AND ITS SECRET HISTORY
MY LITTLEHAMPTON - A history of promise

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GARLIC - A CURE FOR CANCER?

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Although garlic is best known for its ability to stave off heart disease, scientists have also been examining the role of raw garlic as cure for cancer.

While previous studies had suggested that a human would need to eat their own weight in garlic before gaining any benefits, new research suggests half a raw clove would be enough!

Rex and Christine Munday, a husband and wife research team based in New Zealand, were looking at what is thought to be one of the key ingredients - a substance called diallyl disulfide which causes the gut to produce enzymes that can clear it of cancer-causing particles.

Their findings – which have been reported in New Scientist magazine - were based on giving rats varying doses of disulfide, and found that it increased levels of the enzyme by up to 60%.

Rex Munday told the magazine:

‘...it's been recognised that garlic is an inducer of these enzymes, but previous studies have all been with doses at meaningless levels. They implied you'd need to eat your own weight in garlic to achieve beneficial effects...’
Instead, the Mundays found that in rats the benefits could be measured at between 0.075mg and 0.3mg of disulfide per kilogram of body weight, or half a clove of garlic for the average human.

Lesley Walker, head of science information at the Cancer Research Campaign, had this to say on the matter:

‘...it's an interesting study, but people shouldn't get too excited about it. It's lovely to think that eating half a clove of garlic reduces the risk of bowel cancer, and if you like garlic then go for it - but don't necessarily be surprised if you then develop cancer...’Diallyl disulfide was first proven to have the ability to slow the growth of bowel cancer in 1995.
Dr Sujatha Sundaram, a researcher at Pennsylvania State University, found that it caused human bowel cancer tumour cells to shrink and die when transplanted into mice.

Dr Sundaram was also responsible for finding another compound found in garlic that slowed the growth of breast cancer in rats.

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GARLIC - A CURE FOR HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE?

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Research from a recent study at the University of Adelaide, Australia Garlic has suggested that garlic may be useful in the treatment and control of high blood pressure.

Long been thought good for the heart, Australian doctors enrolled 50 patients in a trial to see if garlic supplements could help those whose blood pressure was high – despite whether or not they were on medication. They found that those who were given four capsules of garlic extract a day had lower blood pressure - around 10mmHg lower - than those on a placebo.

Researcher Karin Ried had this to say on the matter:

‘...garlic supplements have been associated with a blood pressure lowering effect of clinical significance in patients with untreated hypertension. Our trial, however, is the first to assess the effect, tolerability and acceptability of aged garlic extract as an additional treatment to existing antihypertensive medication in patients with treated, but uncontrolled, hypertension...’

Ellen Mason, senior cardiac nurse at the British Heart Foundation, said using garlic for medicinal purposes dates back thousands of years, but it is essential that scientific research proves that garlic can help conditions such as raised blood pressure. She said:

‘...this study demonstrated a slight blood pressure reduction after using aged garlic supplements but it's not significant enough or in a large enough group of people to currently recommend it instead of medication. It's a concern that so many people in the UK have poorly controlled blood pressure, with an increased risk of stroke and heart disease as a consequence. So enjoy garlic as part of your diet but don't stop taking your blood pressure medication...’.

Medical experts say that garlic supplements should only be used after seeking medical advice, as garlic can thin the blood or interact with some medicines.
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The British Heart Foundation said more research was needed.

HOW TO GROW POTATOES

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The Chitting or Sprouting Process

While soil temperatures remain below about 10 degrees Celsius not much will happen as the potato - a modified storage organ - will be in a state of natural dormancy. Left to their own devices, by the time the soil has warmed up sufficiently to break the dormancy period and begin the new season growth the majority of potato plants won't be ready to crop until the late summer or even autumn. The reality of this growth cycle means that we need to 'force' the seed potatoes into growth artificially by introducing light and heat - normally provided by a well lit room. This stimulates the production of new shoots and kick starts the potato out of it normal dormancy and reduce the time until cropping from anywhere between 1 and 2 months. This is what is known as chitting or sprouting.

You can buy seed potatoes from as early as January but it is probably better to wait until the beginning or middle of February before you begin chitting. Put the seed potatoes into a box where they can be supported in an upright position - cardboard egg boxes are ideal for this – and place them indoors into a light and airy position. During this time they will require a cool temperature of a little over 10 degrees Celsius. Position them so that the end which has the most eyes (dormant sprouts) are uppermost and the 'stalk' end where they were severed from the parent plant is at the bottom. The new sprouts will form in a couple of weeks and as mentioned before its good practice to remove the weaker sprouts leaving four of the strongest to continue. As a general rule of thumb it will normally take about six weeks to chit a batch of potatoes.

Planting

Potatoes grow best in rich soil containing plenty of well rotted manure or compost. Do not use fresh compost as this will encourage slug damage problems and do not lime the soil as this can cause scab blemishes on developing tubers.

Planting times are not critical but will be dependant on weather, soil conditions and regional variations but below is a general guide.

PLANTING GUIDE

First Earlies:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 20ft (6m)
Planting distance in row: 12 inches (30cm) apart
Distance between rows: 24 inches (60cm)
Plant: from end February
Harvest from: 10 weeks from planting

Second Earlies:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 25ft (7.4m)
Planting distance in row: 15 inches (37cm) apart
Distance between rows: 30 inches (75cm)
Plant: from mid March
Harvest from: 13 weeks from planting

Early Maincrop:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 30ft (9m)
Planting distance in row: 18 inches (45cm) apart
Distance between rows: 30 inches (75cm)
Plant: from late March
Harvest from: 15 weeks from planting

Late Maincrop:
Area Coverage: 20 tubers will plant 30ft (9m)
Planting distance in row: 18 inches (45cm) apart
Distance between rows: 30 inches (75cm)
Plant: from late March
Harvest from: 20 weeks from planting

Potato Fertiliser
Consider using an application of pelleted, high potash fertiliser before planting your seed potatoes. A 3 kg bag sould be sufficient to plant 60 tubers, using 50g (just under 2oz) per tuber. Its application is a matter of personal choice, and to a certain extent will depend on the condition of your soil. You can incorporate 50g in each individual planting hole (as with any fertiliser it should not be in immediate contact with the tuber to avoid scorching), or you can incorporate 25g when planting and another 25g when first earthing up. If you plant in a trench instead of dibbing or using a trowel, then you can scatter the pellets along the trench or leave until you earth up.

Potatoes will grow best in slightly acidic soils which can be seasonally created by applying sulphur to the top of the potato ridge after planting. Applying sulphur maximizes the yield and deters skin blemishes like Common Scab.

Aftercare
Most importantly protect emerging shoots from any frosts by carefully drawing soil over the shoots. Frost will blacken the shoots and delay the production of mature tubers. First and Second Earlies will require plenty of water during prolonged dry weather especially when the tubers are starting to form. Earth up regularly as the plants develop.

Harvesting

Start to harvest First Earlies as 'new potatoes' when the plants come into flower, although not all varieties freely flower or flower over an extended period. Therefore, a more reliable method is the number of weeks from date of planting.

As a guideline, allow 10 weeks from planting for First Earlies, 13 weeks for Second Earlies, 15 weeks for Early Maincrops and 20 weeks for Late Maincrops. Lifting times will also depend on the growing season, weather conditions at harvest time and the size of tuber you want. Tubers will generally become larger the longer their growing period. Maincrop varieties are usually left for at least two weeks after the leaves and haulms (stems) have withered, to allow the skins to set.

Second Cropping Potatoes

Given the UK climate, I would recommend planting 2nd Cropping Potatoes in the first week of August. The absolute latest that you should be planting these seed potatoes is by the end of August. If planting in a protected environment (e.g. in a polytunnel or greenhouse) planting can be delayed by a week or so at the most but tubers must be planted by the end of the first week of September. Planting any later than this is likely to produce disappointing results. If planting is to be delayed from receipt of the tubers, ensure the tubers are stored in the refrigerator at no lower than 4°C until planting.

There is no need to pre-chit the potatoes - this will happen quite naturally after planting. 'Ping-pong ball' sized tubers should be ready for harvesting approximately 10 to 11 weeks after planting. Tubers can be harvested as required, with the others being left in the ground. Cut down the haulms (stems) with secateurs to just above soil level as the leaves wither/yellow or if they show signs of blight and protect from frost. We suggest covering with a thick layer of straw and/or sacking. These can then be lifted at Christmas time. The only potential problem with leaving them in the ground for this length of time is that they will be more susceptible to blight and pest attack (e.g. slugs, wireworm) - the longer they are in the ground, the more possibility there is of being exposed to these pests and diseases.

.Storing
For storing varieties, leave the tubers on the soil surface for a few hours to dry and cure the skin before storing in hessian sacks or in paper in a dark, cool but frost free place. Avoid polythene as potatoes will sweat and rot.

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Article by courtesy of Thompson and Morgan

HOW TO WINTERIZE GERANIUMS

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People don’t seem to bother with winterizing geraniums anymore and this is probably down to two main reasons.

1. Geraniums are not as expensive as they used to be – so the financial need is not as strong, and
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2. The old ways of traditional gardening practice aren’t being handed down through the generations as they once were.

Be that as it may don't let that stop you from making an effort.

Because Geraniums do not possess a storage organ such as a bulb or a tuberous root, they must be over-wintered as soft, ‘green tissue’ that is either actively growing or semi-dormant. When preparing your plants you will need to choose the best quality stock so only select your healthiest looking specimens. Unfortunately - especially when they are grown outside - geraniums are at risk of infection from bacterial or viral diseases, and so discard anything that is showing signs of leaf spots, wilting, or have lesions on the stems

Although I remember my grandfather wrapping up bare-root geraniums in old newspaper, I was too young to remember the details of his technique. However I have listed several ways below - all of which can be used to successfully care for your geraniums over winter.

THE ‘INDOORS’ METHOD

With all these methods timing is important, so don’t leave it too late and get caught out by an early frost otherwise your stock is likely to be only fit for the compost heap. You will need be looking at beginning preparation for over-wintering around October, but keep an eye on the forecasts for overnight temperatures and don’t risk leaving them out if temperatures start to move towards 6 Degrees Celsius.
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With this method – and you will need to have a little bit of space put aside for it - lift your geraniums with as much of their root undisturbed and attached, and pot them on into 6-8 inch diameter pots using any good free-draining, multipurpose compost – you may wish to add some additional horticultural grit or perlite to the mix for extra drainage. Cut each plant back to about 1/3 of its original height, then water in thoroughly.

Bring the geraniums under suitable protected covering such as a heated greenhouse or a cool bright room and treat as you would do a normal houseplant i.e. water weekly - but not too much - and feed ½ recommended fertiliser dose monthly. Initially, they will need to be kept in a well-lit location to help to establish them in their new pots but after 3 or 4 weeks they can be moved into a less well-lit position should you require the space. If you do so they will require even less water and fertiliser, in fact tries to keep them just on the dry side.

Leave them where they are until it is time to acclimatise them for outside planting come the spring, when you can begin to start watering and feeding as per normal. However, do not leave them outside permanently until the threat of frost is over.

THE ‘OUTDOORS’ METHOD

Again, lift your geraniums with as much of their root undisturbed and attached, and pot them on into 6-8 inch diameter pots using any good free-draining, multipurpose compost – once more, you may wish to add some additional horticultural grit or perlite to the mix for extra drainage.
Move them to the protection of a greenhouse or cool conservatory and treat as before until they have established in their pots.
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Come November, reduce the watering until the compost it almost dry then prune back the plants back to remove all of the soft, green growth. Cover the prepared plants with a fleece to help maintain an even temperature during the day and help prevent frost damage over night. If temperatures start to dip below 4 degrees Celsius- you may need to provide heat within the greenhouse - about 6-7 degrees - or bring the plants indoors until temperatures rise.

When kept in a greenhouse it is important to ventilate the greenhouse as often as the weather allows in order reducing the incidence of fungal rots. Inspect your plants weekly for fungal infection and remove and destroy any that showing the tell-tale signs.

Leave them where they are until it is time to acclimatise them for outside planting come the spring, when you can begin to start watering and feeding as per normal. However, do not leave them outside permanently until the threat of frost is over.

THE ‘TRADITIONAL’ METHOD – or rather ‘a’ traditional method

Once again you will need to carefully lift your geraniums before the first winter frost, but this time you need to gently shake all the soil from the roots – trying to do so without damaging the roots. They will then need to be stored in a cool dark position such as a basement where the temperature will remain a steady 5-7 degrees Celsius. The plants can either be hung upside down or – as my granddad probably did – wrap them in newspaper and placed into an open crate.

Once a month the roots will need to be soaked in room-temperature water for about an hour or so. Allow them to dry and then apply the plants with a protective fungicidal dust. You will find that during the course of this ‘enforced hibernation’ most of the leaves will dry up and fall off, but this is perfectly normal.

Come the early spring the plants can be potted on into 6-8 inch diameter pots using any good free-draining, multipurpose compost – again, you may wish to add some additional horticultural grit or perlite to the mix for extra drainage. Cut the plants back to about 1/3 of their original height, then water and fertilize as normal.

Move them to a protected, well-lit position to help them establish in their pots until the threat of late frosts are over. Now they can be put outside during the day - or under cool green house protection - for the next 2-3 weeks in order to acclimatise them, after which they can be planted into their final positions.

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HOW DO OSTRICHES RUN SO FAST?

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Led by Professor Jonas Rubenson, scientists from the University of Western Australia's School of Sport Science, Exercise and Health have discovered how ostriches manage to run so fast and, perhaps more importantly, so efficiently.

Ostriches use half the energy that humans need in order to run at top speed, say the researchers, who have made the discovery by comparing humans and ostriches in a running test. The secret is their springiness as it has been discovered that ostrich tendons store twice as much ‘elastic energy’ per step than humans.

Five tame ostriches were involved in the study; the scientists measured the movement of their limbs and joints and the force with which the birds' feet hit the ground.

The ostriches were fitted with reflective markers on their joints to allow their movement to be captured in detail as they ran on a purpose-built 50m running track. To make a comparison, five human volunteers were studied in exactly the same way - with several cameras capturing them from different angles.

Professor Rubenson said the findings could provide insight for biologists looking at the evolution of bipedalism, both in humans and in dinosaurs. They could also reveal some of the biological secrets of agility, which should ultimately inform the development of prosthetic limbs and even robots.

Because ostriches are of similar mass to humans, it allowed the team to draw comparisons between the ostrich and the human gait. The research team was surprised to find that ostriches and humans used nearly exactly the same amount of mechanical work to "swing" their limbs back and forth when running.

‘..the difference lies in the elasticity of their joints..’ Professor Rubenson explained. ‘…ostriches generate over twice as much power from recoil of elastic energy stored in tendons than humans, which means they need less muscle power to run at the same speed. Moving with elastic limbs is akin to bouncing on a 'pogo stick', where you don't have to work very hard to bounce along - so it's all in the spring of their step...’

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THE BEST FOODS FOR FLU'S AND COLDS

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Now that temperatures are dropping, our immune systems are collectively becoming more vulnerable to colds and the flu. It won’t be long before they make their presence felt around your workplace or your child’s school, causing the inevitable worthlessness and misery that comes with being firmly planted on the couch for several days. Fortunately, there is a way you can avoid the worst of the season. By eating right, you’ll not only feel better day-to-day, but you’ll also strengthen your immune system, lessening your chances of experiencing a bad cold or flu for an extended period of time. Here are the 15 best foods to eat — sick or not — in the coming months

1.Garlic: Incorporating garlic into your diet results in a myriad of long-term and short-term health benefits. It contains compounds that fight bacterial, viral, parasitic and fungal infections. Particularly helpful is allicin, which is the main component that blocks unwanted enzymes. The only downside of eating too much garlic is the resulting stinky breath, but it’s a small price to pay for strengthening your immune system.

2.Oregano: Oregano is known for possessing potent antioxidants that come with its plentiful flavonoids and phenolic acids. Of course, you can cook using the herb along with garlic, for example, to have an immune-boosting meal. Or you can take oil of oregano, which is packed with zinc, magnesium, calcium, iron, copper, potassium, boron and manganese.

3.Ginger: Tea, especially ginger tea, has long been a go-to home remedy for fighting colds. The root contains the anti-inflammatory agent shogaol, which has been rigorously studied to gain insight into its remarkable health benefits. Ginger primarily helps soothe headaches and nausea, and it can induce sweat in order to release toxins during the onset of a cold.

4.Oats: Oats are full of fiber, beta-glucans and vitamins B and E, making them advocates of both your immune system and digestive system. The flu or a tough cold can take a toll on your stomach, so it’s important that you take measures to ensure it remains in tip-top shape. Oats can be added in the preparation of meats, or you can simply purchase oatmeal or oat bran.

5.Mushrooms: Mushrooms are worthy virus and bacteria fighters because they unleash beta-glucans that stimulate the immune system, searching and destroying disease-causing cells. They make an excellent side dish or ingredient in an existing dish.

6.Broccoli: Broccoli promotes a strong immune system by providing glucosinolates, and it’s also a great source of vitamins A, C and E.

7.Cabbage: Cabbage is high in glucosinolates, vitamin C and fiber, and it can be used in a variety of dishes — it’s a potential ingredient for a cold-soothing stew, or if you’re a big fan of it, cabbage soup is an effective cold remedy.

8.Carrots: Carrots do more than just promote eye health. They increase the amount of infection-fighting cells with their production of beta-carotene. While some opt to eat carrots on their own, others choose to add them to a stew or drink them in juice-form.

9.Sweet Potatoes: Sweet potatoes contain lots of beta-carotene and fiber. They’re easy to toss in the oven and eat when you’re sick and don’t feel like concocting an entire meal.

10.Oranges: Oranges and other citrus fruits are rich in vitamin C, which increases the production of white blood cells and inhibits the entry of viruses by increasing interferon levels. A tall glass of freshly squeesed orange juice may keep the doctor away, as long as your aren’t experiencing stomach problems, in which case you’d be better off avoiding this highly acidic drink.

11.Lemons: Looking for even more vitamin C? Lemons provide 80 percent of your daily dosage. What’s more, they can be consumed in a stomach-friendly manner by diluting the juice with water, accelerating your recovery time.

12.Elderberries: Berries are also rich source of vitamin C and thus have always been a part of sick food diets. Particularly, the lesser known elderberry has a reputation for its flu fighting ability because of its large amount of vitamin C and phytochemicals that are antiviral and anti-inflammatory.

13.Yogurt: The live bacteria — or probiotics — in yogurt boost the immune system by protecting it against harmful bacteria, making the dairy product an essential addition to a complete anti-cold and flu diet. Mix in some sliced fruit and you’ll have a tasty snack that’s also filled with vitamins.

14.Honey: Honey is another sweet advocate of healthy bacteria. It’s also high in antioxidants, so adding it to tea or pouring it over food will do more than just enhance the taste. When you have a sore throat or persistent cough, honey will coat your throat, easing the irritation.

15.Oysters: Oysters may not seem like typical sick food, but they contribute to the immune system by adding zinc, which strengthens helper T cells. The result is that cells are more prepared to deal with invaders. If you can’t stomach the slimy mollusk, consider eating other seafood, chicken or beef.

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HOW TO WINTERIZE DAHLIAS

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With milder winters becoming ever more common, there are now two schools of thought when it comes to winterizing Dahlias.

The traditional method is to lift them and then store in a cool dry, frost–free position, while the second - slightly more risky way - is to leave them where they are, but with the addition of extra insulation.

LIFTING AND STORING DAHLIA TUBERS

The practice of removing Dahlia tubers from the ground for winterizing goes back to at least a couple of hundred years so you know that it is definitely going to work. The time to do this is always going to be dependent on the weather so come the autumn you will need to keep a close watch on your plants.

As soon as the first good frost hits, the leaves on the Dahlia will blacken and the plant will naturally move into its dormancy stage. However, you will want to leave it a week or so before further preparation commences so that the plant can adjust to the seasonal change and absorb nutrients and carbohydrates from the stems and store this valuable nutrition back into the tubers

Cut the stems to about 6 inches from the ground and then using a fork carefully lift the dahlia so that when removed from the soil, the tubers remains intact. You will probably need to circle the root system - about 1ft from the stem - with the fork first to help loosen the soil before lifting

Once lifted, gently place the tuber clump onto the ground, then carefully remove as much soil as you can without breaking or cracking the ‘necks’ of the individual tubers. Unfortunately, a tuber with a cracked or broken neck will tend to rot and will not produce new growth next season.

Remove any diseased or damaged tubers and trim off any fibrous roots to reduce the incidence of fungal infections, then wash the rest of the soil off with water and allow to dry – upside down - for a couple of days in a cool, frost-free environment
.
Prepare a container such as a seed tray or shallow box with a covering of horticultural sand, peat or vermiculite at the bottom. Now place the tubers into the containers and cover them with slightly moistened horticultural sand, peat or vermiculite. The container can now be placed into storage in a frost-free position such as a garage or basement or anywhere that has an even winter temperature of around that 4 – 7 Degrees Celsius.

During this storage time you should be examining the tubers at least once a month, throwing away any which are showing signs of rotting. If the tubers appear to be drying out, then sprinkle the covering medium with a small amount of water. If they to be appear too wet then remove them from their container and allow to dry off on some old newspaper for a couple of days before placing back into storage

Come the following spring - and just before the growing season - divide the tuberous roots into sections using a steralised, sharp blade making sure that each section has at least one prominent bud. Dust each cut section with a fungicidal powder and allow them to dry for a couple of days. That way the cut surfaces have a chance to callous over before planting

These new root sections can be potted on in John Innes No.1 but unlike most other plants it is important NOT to water them in. Label them and place them back into a frost-free area moving them into a bright position. Do not move into direct sunlight until the foliage has a chance to harden off.

OVER-WINTER DAHLIA TUBERS IN THE GROUND

Recent trials have shown that it isn't always necessary to lift and store Dahlia tubers so long as the ground is suitably prepared before planting. However, wet and freezing winters may still kill Dahlia tubers when they left in the ground, so it can still be worth lifting a few plants for storage – just to be on the safe side.

The key to successfully over-winter Dahlia tubers in the ground is to make sure that they were planted into a free draining soil in the first place as this will reduce the tubers becoming waterlogged during this risky part of the year. Also, it is advisable to plant them deeper in the soil than would normally be the practice - about 8 inches or so deep is fine.

The tubers will require additional protection to avoid them from being damaged by hard ground frosts. This can be achieved by employing by simple mulch such as straw, peat or even more soil. However using a traditional ‘Clamp’ will be the most effective.

HOW TO MAKE A TRADITIONAL CLAMP

Take some straw and cover over where the Dahlia tubers are under ground. Now position more straw - in a vertical fashion - so that it forms a raised mound above the tubers. When looking at it, the lengths of straw should now be sloping away from the top of the mound to the bottom of it so that it draws any water away from the centre of the mound.

Next the straw mound is ‘earthed –up’ which is a bit like making a sand castle on the beach. You dig a moat around the outside and you throw the excavated soil on top of the straw mound. When you get to the top of the mound you will need to leave a little straw chimney. This allows the mound to ‘breath’ which helps to stop fungal rots from progressing inside. The last thing to do is to smooth over the soil sides so that if it does rain the water will run off down the sides rather than enter into the mound itself.

The 'clamp' can be removed once the threat of frost is over.

WARNING

Slugs are very partial to the taste of fresh Dahlia growth and so it is important to remember to put down something to keep them well away. If you forget, all of your hard work would have been wasted and all you will have to show is a healthy batch of new slugs ready to damage other susceptible plants as they grow through.

For more information click onto:
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How to Over-Winter Rare and Species Tulips
How to Overwinter Strawberries
How to Over-Winter Your Herbs
How to Protect and Over-Winter Bananas
How to Plant and Grow Dahlias
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How to Winterize Begonia Bulbs
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HOW TO WINTERIZE GERANIUMS

HOW DO OSTRICHES RUN SO FAST?

THE BEST FOODS FOR FLU'S AND COLDS

HOW TO WINTERIZE DAHLIAS

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