HOW TO WINTERIZE BEGONIA BULBS


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Tuberous Begonias offer magnificent value for money, especially when you consider how much of a show they give for their initial cost.

And although this lush, tropical looking plant is often sold as a half-hardy annual, tuberous begonias are mostly perennial, and - unlike the fibrous rooted cousins - they can be over-wintered for progressively better results year after year.

HOW TO OVER-WINTER POT GROWN TUBEROUS BEGONIAS

If your begonias have been grown in pots outside then the easiest way to winterize them is to leave them in their pots. Preparation can begin as early as August - in order to give them time to adjust - by bringing them indoors to a cool, and well-ventilated room. Begin withholding more and more water until the foliage dies back - then stop watering altogether. Leave the foliage in place to die back naturally, then - within a few weeks - you will be able to remove the dried-up stem and leaves without causing damage to the tuber.

The next thing you need to do is to remove the tuber from the compost, clean it off and remove any damaged or soft parts with a sterilised knife. Dust it – especially any cut areas - with a fungicidal powder. From this point on the tuber can be stored until it is ready to be replanted in the spring.
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Store the tubers as a single layer inside a suitable cardboard box - spaced evenly apart - and keep them in a dry, frost-free and dark place until the spring. Alternatively, pack the tubers in dry peat, sand, sawdust, or vermiculite to prevent excessive moisture loss.

HOW TO OVER-WINTER TUBEROUS BEGONIAS GROWN IN THE GROUND

If your begonias are planted directly in the ground then you can start preparing begonias for winterizing at the end of the autumn season. Begin by cutting back on water, but make sure they are allowed to dry out between each watering.

When the tops of tuberous begonias are damaged by the first autumn/winter frost, do not to make the mistake of removing all the old stems and foliage. Instead allow the plant to die back naturally so that the tuberous storage organ can benefit from absorbing the nutrients and carbohydrates that remain in the old growth.

Carefully lift the entire plant leaving the root-ball and soil as intact as possible. Place in a cool, dry storage area allowing the tubers to harden off for a couple of weeks. After this period you can remove any remaining soil as well as any old stems and roots.

Cut away any damaged or soft parts with a sterilised knife. Dust it – especially any cut areas - with a fungicidal powder. From this point on the tuber can be stored until it is ready to be replanted in the spring.
.Store the tubers as a single layer inside a suitable cardboard box - spaced evenly apart - and keep them in a dry, frost-free and dark place until the spring. Alternatively, pack the tubers in dry peat, sand, sawdust, or vermiculite to prevent excessive moisture loss.

WHAT NEXT?
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Check the begonia tubers occasionally over the winter period to ensure they are still dry and rot-free. Remove any that look suspicious to prevent the risk of further infection.

Plant again in spring after the soil has warmed and once the threat of late frosts are over – this will be around the third week of May in the south-east of England.

For more information click onto:
How do you Harden off Seedlings?
Can You Over-winter Citrus Outside?
How and Why does Over-watering Kill Plants?
How to Grow Bulbs
How to Over-Winter Brugmansia
How to Over-Winter Dahlia Tubers
How to Over-Winter Geraniums
How to Over-Winter the Glory Lily
How to Over-Winter Lily Bulbs
How to Over-Winter Rare and Species Tulips
How to Over-Winter Roses
How to Overwinter Strawberries
How to Protect and Over-Winter Bananas
How to Protect Tree Ferns Over Winter
How to Save and Recover an Over-watered Plant

HOW TO GROW GARLIC IN THE GARDEN



CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE
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Written by featured author, Margaret Robinson
Planting garlic cloves takes place October to February, generally the earlier the better in a well-drained soil. Light soils will usually produce brighter whiter bulbs. Heavier soils will grow good garlic but there can be some staining of the outer skin.

Divide the bulbs into their cloves taking care not to damage them. Each garlic bulb should produce 10-15 cloves. Plant immediately after dividing in well cultivated, fertile ground in rows of approximately 50cms apart. Push each clove into the soil base first so that the pointed end is about 2 or 3cms under the ground. Cloves should be 15cms apart. A dressing of sulphate of potash during growth - 2oz to the square metre - will be beneficial.

The crop should be ready for harvesting in July/August. As soon as the tops begin to fall the garlic is ready for lifting. At this stage the garlic is very tender so take care not to bruise the bulbs. Once lifted dry the garlic bulbs indoors taking care not to over dry the garlic bulbs. The outer skins should be dry whilst remaining firm, plump and tight to the touch.

Elephant garlic is grown in the same way but given a wider spacing of 25cm between cloves. Elephant garlic often runs to seed during growth so break the seed stalk off at least three weeks prior to harvest.

Margaret Robinson is one of the directors of W. Robinson and Son who specialise in large-sized vegetables.

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How to Grow Eggplants from Seed
How to Grow Garlic
How to Grow Garlic in Pots and Containers
How to Grow Giant Onions
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How to Grow Jalapeno Peppers from Seed
How to Grow Lettuce From Seed
How to Grow Melons in a Greenhouse
How to Grow Melon Plants from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow Okra from Seed Outdoors
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How to Grow Onions from Onion Sets
How to Plant Garlic
How to Plant Garlic in Containers
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How to Make and Prepare an Onion Bed
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What is Coriander?

FOODS AND HERBS THAT BOOST YOUR IMMUNE SYSTEM


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Autumn is here. Along with the brisk air and pretty leaves on the ground, it also brings some other things: sniffles, coughs, and the flu. While some people are already running to the drug store seeking remedies and flu shots, turning to mother nature first can give you a head start on the sickness that comes with the changing of the seasons. There are many fruits, veggies, and herbs that boost your immune system naturally. And, they usually cost less and are more enjoyable to ingest than the cough syrups and other medicines you'll get at the drug store. Check out these herbs, fruits, and veggies that will keep your body strong and happy.

Licorice RootLicorice root is an herb that has been used in traditional Chinese medicine for years. Now studies have shown the science behind its purported immune system-boosting properties. The herb contains Glycyrrhizin, a chemical that has been shown to boost natural killer cell activity; natural killer cells are part of the immune system's defense. They pick out infecting viral and tumor cells and kill them before they can start making you unwell.

GarlicBesides making nearly any dish more flavorful and delicious (and warding off vampires, of course), garlic has similar immune system building properties to licorice root. It also boosts natural killer cell activity, and makes the body better at getting rid of invading viruses. Just make sure you brush your teeth afterwards, or it can help ward off any kisses or conversation as well!

CitrusThe upcoming winter does mean one tasty thing: citrus is in season. You'll be able to find tangerines, tangelos, oranges, and grapefruits by the bag in your local grocery. While you've heard it a million times, that doesn't make it any less true: Vitamin C does wonders for your immune system. In studies, animals deprived of Vitamin C are less able to fight off antigens and viruses invading their cells. And, over time, the phytochemicals in citrus can help decrease your risk of cancer and other cellular degeneration.

AlmondsAlmonds are an excellent source of the anti-oxidant Vitamin E. Vitamin E eats up free radials, oxygen atoms that wear away cell membranes and inhibit immune system function. The vitamin also lowers cell inflammation by interfering with an enzyme that causes cell oxidation. Over time, this reduction of inflammation can decrease your risk of cancer.

Brazil NutsBrazil nuts are incredibly high in the trace element selenium. Selenium is necessary for the correct formation of selenoproteins, a type of antioxidant which increases immune system function. Selenoproteins get rid of free radicals, the cell-damaging byproducts of regular metabolism. Selenoproteins also help keep your thyroid functioning correctly.

Carrots, Spinach, and KaleVitamin A is a super-vitamin, and these three veggies have it in the highest amounts. Vitamin A not only helps your vision, bone grown, and cell division, but it's also a helper to the immune system. Vitamin A increases the amount of white bloods cells that your body makes; white blood cells help destroy infections by seeking out harmful bacteria and viruses.

So now you know what to load up on your plate this winter, to stay in tip top shape. But you don't necessarily have to buy all of it at the store: it's more fun to grow the foods that are going to ward off this season's colds. On the Garden of Eaden, you can learn how to grow garlic, kale, carrots, and Chinese spinach. Good luck growing, eating well, and feeling better!

Joy Paley is a guest blogger for An Apple a Day and a writer on the subject of medical transcription training for the Guide to Health Education.

FOR RELATED ARTICLES CLICK ON TO:.

HOW TO WINTERIZE LILIES


CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP
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As a family, the majority of ornamental lilies are a pretty tough bunch and able to cope with most of what the winter weather will throw at it. However, they can be prone to rotting off in cold wet conditions, especially those varieties that originate from mountainous regions, but with a little thought - and minimum of intervention – overwintering ornamental lilies is quite straightforward. .

If you are planting lily corms into damp conditions or you live in an area prone to heavy rainfall over the winter period, it will be worth trying to improve the drainage of the soil by digging in plenty of horticultural grit, perlite or bulky organic matter. It may even be worth creating a low mound to plant your corms into to help keep them away from a high water table. You can even consider protecting the area around the bulb from heavy rainfall by covering them with a large cloche or ‘makeshift’ plastic tent.

Species Lilies such as the Nepalese lily are particularly prone to this and are best potted on and brought in to a protected cold environment where there is no chance of water reaching the bulb. Strangely they will tolerate temperatures down to about minus 12 degrees Celsius, but in it native environment and water would be frozen, effectively creating a ‘dry’ environment!

Lily varieties and cultivars that are not able to survive the freezing temperatures of an exposed mountain environment can be given the added protection of a good autumn mulch

Although bulbous in character, i.e. the plant is produced from a swollen underground storage organ known as a corm, it is not a true bulb. Instead it is tight, concentric ring of succulent scales which are attached at their lower end to a basal plate.
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Lily bulbs never really go dormant, and do best when out of the ground for as short a time as possible. If you've got the space, I would recommend potting the bulbs up right away. You can cram them in, bulb to bulb, you're just trying to keep the root system fresh and growing. You can store the pots in an unheated garage or cool basement until spring, then tease the roots apart and plant again.
If you can't pot them up right away, get some moss peat, wet it and squeeze out as much of the water as you can. Dust the bulbs with a powdered fungicide, then store the bulbs in the moss peat in an open container (which you will need to mist periodically to keep it just on the moist side) and store in the basement or garage until you can plant in the spring.

For related articles click onto:
How do you Harden off Seedlings?
Can You Over-winter Citrus Outside?
How and Why does Over-watering Kill Plants?
How to Over-Winter Brugmansia
How to Over-Winter Dahlia Tubers
How to Over-Winter Geraniums
How to Over-Winter the Glory Lily
How to Over-Winter Rare and Species Tulips
How to Over-Winter Roses
How to Overwinter Strawberries
How to Protect and Over-Winter Bananas
How to Protect Tree Ferns Over Winter
How to Save and Recover an Over-watered Plant
How to Winterize Begonia Bulbs
How to Winterize Dahlias
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CHOOSING HARDY CACTI AND SUCCULENTS FOR GROWING OUTSIDE


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In the cool regions of northern Europe, but where temperatures rarely fall below freezing, many cacti and succulent species will thrive outdoors in troughs, raised beds and pots - provided the plants are raised above ground level to allow water to drain away freely. A warm sheltered position – such as a walled south-facing corner, or a covered patio or balcony where the plants can more easily be protected from rain - will provide the ideal environment.
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The foliage shapes of Sedum and the neat rosettes of Sempervivum can be used to form a contrast with the leafy forms and brilliant blooms of Lewisia species and cultivars, the green-flowered Echinocereus viridiflorus, hardy Umbilicus, and the summer blooms of hardy Lampranthus. Other species, such as the Agave parryi, which has symmetrical rosettes of plump, grey-green leaves, or Opuntia polyacantha, with its brilliant display of yellow flowers, make striking focal points if they are planted in mixed displays or on their own in large bowls.

In warmer climates, there is a much greater scope for growing cacti and succulents outdoors in containers. In large pots, groups of plants that flower at different periods and have striking foliage forms such as the purple leaved Aeonium arboretum ‘Schwarzkopf’.


 Aloe barbadensis which has yellow flowers and the red flowered Crassula falcata will provide structural interest all year round, and give a succession of attractive blooms throughout the warmer months.

Where temperatures do not consistently fall below 13 degrees Celsius, any dwarf cacti, such as species and cultivars of Gymnocalycium, mammilaria, and Rebutia, make fascinating displays of form and texture in outdoor bowls and troughs in the garden. These dwarf, cluster-forming species also give a magnificent display of vibrant colour that will last for many weeks on end during the summer.

. The key thing is to provide the right conditions as the great majority of cacti and succulents need high light levels, warmth and good ventilation to thrive - although some, the leafy succulents in particular, may need protection from direct sun during the summer to avoid leaf scorch.

There is one important group of cacti however that requires shady conditions, or at least filtered light. These are the epiphytes that come from the humid and shaded rainforest's of South America such as the Christmas cacti – Schlumbergera bridgesii and Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri.

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Hardy Cacti and Succulents for Growing Outside

HARDY CACTI AND SUCCULENTS FOR GROWING OUTSIDE


CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE
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With careful selection and skilful arrangement, attractive displays of cacti and other succulents can be grown outdoors – even in relatively cool conditions. However, to get the best out of your more exotic species, plant them into in porous troughs or pots, or even purpose built raised beds – in fact anywhere provided the plants are suitably raised above ground level to allow water to drain away freely.

Succulents
Few succulents can tolerate excess moisture and even the truly hardy species require good drainage to perform their best. Among the hardiest to consider are the many species and cultivars of Sedums, Semperviviums (houseleeks), along with members of both the Crassula and Umblicus family.

However, don’t over look the striking purple leaved Aeonium arboretum ‘Schwarzkopf’, and – if you can source it – the hardy Maihunia poeppigii.

Cacti
With excellent drainage and a good baking in the summer, a number of desert cacti - particularly some Lampranthus and Optuntia species – will withstand surprisingly low temperatures, although not a combination of cold and wet! Perhaps the best of these is the hardy Opuntia humifusa

If you live in milder areas which experience only a few frosts this range of exotic plants can be extended to include the spectacular rosettes of Agave americana cultivars. With a little winter protection you can also consider Agave filifera, Beschorneria yuccoides.

Half hardy species will need a freely draining site with the shelter of a warm, sunny wall for additional protection. Where temperatures are unlikely to fall much below 7-10 degrees Celsius, such as the Mediterranean or southern and south-western USA, there are few restrictions when choosing succulents for outdoors.

Hardy Bromiliads
Although neither a cacti nor succulent, the hardy bromeliad is more than able to hold its own amongst its desert dwelling brothers. The best two varieties for availability and that will cope with the cold are Puya chilensis and Puya berteroniana.



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Hardy Exotic Plants for that Tropical Garden Effect
How to Grow Aloe vera from Seed
Schlumbergera Species - The Christmas Cacti
What has the Christmas cactus got to do with Christmas?

HOW TO OVER WINTER LILY BULBS


CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP
.
By and large, the majority of ornamental lilies are a pretty tough bunch and able to cope with most of what the winter weather has to throw at it. However, they can be prone to losses in cold wet conditions, especially those varieties that originate from mountainous regions, but with a little thought - and minimum of intervention – overwintering ornamental lilies is fairly straightforward.

Winterising can easily coincide with propagation. Species such as Lilum lancifolium, L. tigrinum and L.bulbiferum, and their hybrids, will produce stem bulbils (baby corms) in the leaf axils or bulblets at the base of the old flowering stem. Once the stems have died back it is a perfect time to lift the parent corm at which point the bulbils or bulblets can be picked off and the parent bulb replanted. However, make sure that the parent bulb is planted in free draining ground otherwise it can easily rot off over the winter period if left dormant in waterlogged conditions.
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If you are planting lily corms into damp conditions or you live in an area prone to heavy rainfall over the winter period, it will be worth trying to improve the drainage of the soil by digging in plenty of horticultural grit, perlite or bulky organic matter. It may even be worth creating a low mound to plant your corms into to help keep them away from a high water table. You can even consider protecting the area around the bulb from heavy rainfall by covering them with a large cloche or ‘makeshift’ plastic tent.

Species Lilies such as the Nepalese lily are particularly prone to this and are best potted on and brought in to a protected cold environment where there is no chance of water reaching the bulb. Strangely they will tolerate temperatures down to about minus 12 degrees Celsius, but in it native environment and water would be frozen, effectively creating a ‘dry’ environment!

Lily varieties and cultivars that are not able to survive the freezing temperatures of an exposed mountain environment can be given the added protection of a good autumn mulch

Although bulbous in character, i.e. the plant is produced from a swollen underground storage organ known as a corm, it is not a true bulb. Instead it is tight, concentric ring of succulent scales which are attached at their lower end to a basal plate.
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Lily bulbs never really go dormant, and do best when out of the ground for as short a time as possible. If you've got the space, I would recommend potting the bulbs up right away. You can cram them in, bulb to bulb, you're just trying to keep the root system fresh and growing. You can store the pots in an unheated garage or cool basement until spring, then tease the roots apart and plant again.


If you can't pot them up right away, get some moss peat, wet it and squeeze out as much of the water as you can. Dust the bulbs with a fungicide, then store the bulbs in the moss peat in an open container (which you will need to mist periodically to keep it barely moist) and store in the basement or garage until you can plant in the spring.

Planting BulbilsIt is possible to collect bulbils throughout late summer but only once the bulbils have naturally loosened from the parent stem. Collect them from the leaf axils of the lily stems by carefully picking them off.

Insert the bulbils into pans of moist, loam based compost - such as John Innes ‘Seed and Potting’ compost – pressing them gently into the surface. Cover with grit and don’t forget to label the variety before placing in a cold frame until the young bulbs develop.

Planting Bulblets
After flowering, lift the corm and dead stem – replanting the parent corm. Alternatively, leave the parent bulb in the ground and cut the stem directly above it to remove the bulblets.

Plant the bulblets at twice their own depth into 13cm pots of moist, loam-based potting compost. Cover with a layer of grit before placing in a cold frame until the spring. Don’t forget to label the variety.
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For related articles click onto:
Dracunculus vulgaris - The Dragon Lily
How do you Harden off Seedlings?
Can You Over-winter Citrus Outside?
How and Why does Over-watering Kill Plants?
How to Over-Winter Brugmansia
How to Over-Winter Dahlia Tubers
How to Over-Winter Geraniums
How to Over-Winter the Glory Lily
How to Over-Winter Rare and Species Tulips
How to Over-Winter Roses
How to Protect and Over-Winter Bananas
How to Protect Tree Ferns Over Winter
How to Save and Recover an Over-watered Plant
How to Winterize Dahlias
How to Winterize Geraniums
How to Winterize Lilies

THE HISTORY OF THE ALLOTMENT


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The practical need to grow food is part of our common history, and as such we have always required small areas of land for food production. Unfortunately the history of allotments will show that this has resulted in an ongoing struggle between those who own the land and those who need the land.

The Saxons were able to clear land and hold it for common usage, but after the Norman conquests, land ownership was chiefly in the hands of the crown, nobility and the church. With various enclosure acts coming into place, problems with getting hold of land became increasingly acute. The first mentioned of allotted land arrived late in the reign of Elizabeth I when allotments of land were attached to tenant cottages in compensation for the repossession of common land.

In 1649, a certain Gerrard Winstanley led a group of hungry men to take over common land in St. George’s Hill in Surrey. This was done in protest of the common people being robbed of their land by the Normans. At this time, food prices were at an all time high and scandalously, Winstanley’s men began to cultivate it. He claimed that all men had the ‘right to dig’ and argued that if the common people of England formed themselves into self-supporting communities there would be no place in society for the ruling class. Although Winstanley’s stand captured the common mans imagination, the protest was eventually subdued by the authorities. However the spirit of ‘right to dig’ is still with many of us today.


During the Industrial revolution, thousands abandoned the subsistence way of life and relocated to the cities to work in the factories. Unfortunately poor pay and conditions meant that many families were facing starvation with no land to grow food on. However there was change in the air with the General Enclosure Act of 1845 which recognised that provision should be made for the landless poor in the form of field gardens. These were to be limited in size of no more that ¼ of an acre, but in reality little land was made available, and any land that was converted into field gardens was largely confined to the rural areas – no use at all to the starving city folk. Nevertheless, this act marks the beginning of the Allotment movement.

In 1887, the Allotments and Cottage Gardens Compensation for crops Act forced local authorities to provide land for allotments so long as there was a demand for them. The Small Holding and Allotments Act of 1908 further imposed responsibilities on the parish and local councils to provide land - if required – a principle that still holds true to this day!

Significantly, the Victorians introduced a small levy to be charged annually to allotment holders to avoid the stigma that such land was only for the poor The popular view was that allotments were to be encouraged: not only did they prevent starvation, they kept people bust and out of the ale houses!


Food shortages during World War I saw the demand for allotments increase. Councils were finally made to make proper land provision where none previously existed. The railway companies – who held small pockets of wasteland alongside their trackside’s, allotted this to railway workers so that it could be put to productive use. Many still remain – a legacy of those years, when the number of working plots increased from 600,000 to 1,500,000. After the Great War the demand for allotments fell and many of these parcels of land were clawed back and used for housing.

This pattern was to be repeated during the Second World War when German blockades effectively hit food imports. The Dig for Victory campaign encouraged everyone to turn their gardens over to food production – no matter how small. Once again council allotments became fully utilised and - for a while – even public parks were turned over for use in food production! The nation rose to the challenge and it was estimated that 1.4 million allotments were being used to produce 1.3 tonnes of produce per years – one fifth of the nation’s food!

Demand for land after the war resulted in the Allotment Act of 1950 which recommended a provision of 4 acres of land per 1000 head of population. Food rationing continued until 1954 which ensured that allotments remained a valued resource but after this time there was a decline in interest which continued to decline until the mid 1990’s.

Today, demand for allotments have never been higher – a combination of rising food priced, a genuine concern for food quality and a reduction in the availability of plots. However, throughout the history of allotments one thing has never changed, and that is the continuing struggle between those who own the land and those who need the land.

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HOW TO GROW YOUR OWN GARLIC IN THE GARDEN



CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE
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Want to buy onion seed? Click here to view seed shop.

Written by featured author, Margaret Robinson
Planting takes place October to February, generally the earlier the better in a well-drained soil. Light soils will usually produce brighter whiter bulbs. Heavier soils grow good Garlic but there may be some staining of the outer skin.

Divide the bulbs into their cloves taking care not to damage them. Each garlic bulb should produce 10-15 cloves. Plant immediately after dividing in well cultivated fertile ground in rows approx. 50cms apart. Push each clove into the soil base first so that the pointed end is about 2 or 3cms under the ground. Cloves should be 15cms apart. A dressing of sulphate of potash during growth 2oz to the square meter will be beneficial.

The crop should be ready for harvesting in July/August. As soon as the tops begin to fall the garlic is ready for lifting. At this stage the garlic is very tender; take care not to bruise the bulbs. Once lifted dry the garlic bulbs indoors taking care not to over dry the garlic bulbs. The outer skins should be dry whilst remaining firm, plump and tight to the touch.

Elephant garlic is grown in the same way but given a wider spacing of 25cm between cloves. Elephant garlic often runs to seed during growth, break the seed stalk off at least three weeks prior to harvest.

Margaret Robinson is one of the directors of W. Robinson and Son who specialise in large-sized vegetables.

For related articles click onto:
Garlic
Garlic - a Cure for Cancer?
Garlic - a Cure for High Blood Pressure?
Growing Garlic in Containers
How do you Plant Out Onion Seedlings?
How to Grow Amaranth from Seed
How to Grow Artichokes from Seed
How to Grow Asparagus Plants
How to Grow Asparagus from Seed
How to Grow Aubergines From Seed
How to Grow Autumn Sowings of Broad Beans
How to Grow Bananas Outside in the UK
How to Grow Basil from Seed
How to Grow Basil from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Beetroot from Seed
How to Grow Butternut Squash from Seed
How to Grow Butternut Squash in Pots or Containers
How to Grow Broad Beans from Seed
How to Grow Carrots from Seed
How to Grow Chinese Spinach from Seed
How to Grow Citrus from Seed
How to Grow Eggplants from Seed
How to Grow Garlic
How to Grow Garlic in Pots and Containers
How to Grow Garlic in the Garden
How to Grow Giant Onions
How to Grow Greenhouse Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Jalapeno Peppers from Seed
How to Grow a Lemon Tree from Seed
How to Grow Lettuce From Seed
How to Grow Melons in a Greenhouse
How to Grow Melon Plants from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow Okra from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow Onions From Seed
How to Grow Onions from Onion Sets
How to Plant Garlic
How to Plant Garlic in Containers
How do you Harden off Seedlings?
How to Sow and Grow Spring Onions from Seed
How to Make and Prepare an Asparagus Bed
How to Make and Prepare an Onion Bed
How to Make my Recipe for English Onion Soup

HOW TO GROW GINGER



Written by featured author, Emily smith - experienced gardener

Now I must admit ginger is not the easiest crop to grow well, but then the sense of achievement is all the greater. The foliage has wide grass like leaves angled on verdant thick rush like green stems, somewhat resembling a rare lily, and reaching a couple of feet or even a metre in height. But it’s the underground part that’s most interesting; it’s the spice of commerce. And as ginger is not grown from seed the simplest way to start is with a fresh shop bought hand.

Choose one with plump buds showing - choose carefully; to give a longer shelf life these are sometimes abraded off. Wash the hand well to remove any anti-sprouting compounds and cut off buds with a hazelnut sized piece of the flesh from behind at a convenient position - more is better. You can even plant the whole hand if you wish but this is no great advantage. Let the cut-off budded pieces dry for a day or two in a warm sunny place to help heal their wounds. Then pot each in gritty sterile compost and preferably root in a propagator with some bottom heat, though they will usually take on a warm sunny windowsill.

Fat white roots delve deep as the buds start to grow so keep the plants regularly potted up, tall narrow pots are most suitable. Mild bottom heat is not essential but if continued throughout the season will result in a much larger crop. Although needing plenty of light the plants do best in diffused or dappled light, as with Gardenias, so are better grown in amongst other plants rather than on their own. By midsummer the plants need to be in quite large pots if they are doing well, even small buckets. By autumn the base of each stem will have grown to a golf ball sized swelling - this is known as stem ginger. Peeled then boiled in sugar syrup, cooled and re-boiled several times this makes the well known delicious sweet. It can be eaten whilst wet with syrup or candied further and coated in sugar crystals.

The surplus syrup can be used for ginger flavouring. Or if you wait longer the foliage dies down, falls off and you have a new hand or more of root ginger - which keeps longest when cool and dry. You could peel and slice this, dry it out completely and reduce it to ginger powder to store for even longer. Whichever - but don’t forget to save some plump buds for the following years crop.

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HOW TO MAKE OLD FASHIONED FRUIT CHUTNEY


CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE

I love old fashion English fruit chutney, it was something my grandmother used to make and nowadays - whenever I tasted someones homemade recipe - the memories of childhood always flooded back. I can't get enough of the stuff which is fine in itself but I am addicted to eating it with a slab of cheese which is not so good

This recipe will make 900 grams / 2 lb of preserve.

450g / 1lb of pears, peeled, cored and chopped
450g / 1lb of cooking apples, peeled, cored and chopped.
2 x onions - chopped
600ml / 1 pint of vinegar
225g / 8 oz of dates - chopped
15ml / 1 tbsp of salt
450g/1lb of golden syrup (light corn)
A pinch of ground ginger
15ml / 1tbsp of mustard powder

Put the pears, apples, onions and vinegar in to a pan and bring to the boil and simmer for about 15 minutes until the mix is tender. Stir in the remaining ingredients and boil for about 20 minutes until thick and golden. Stir well, then pour into warmed jars and leave to cool. Then seal and lable.
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How easy is that?
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HOW TO MAKE PLUM CHUTNEY




I came across this recipe by accident, and it was all down to have plums stolen off my tree last year. This year I decided that it wasn't going to happen - so as soon as the fruit was ripe I stipped the entire crop and brought it home. Two plum crumbles later - superb, I can now make them the way my grandmother used to - I needed a plan to clear the rest of the fruit. Luckily a good friend of mine had lent me a cook book for its simnel cake recipe and in it I found this traditional, simple English recipe for plum chutney. It is gorgous, but the only reason I have listed the recipe on this site is because I have had to give the book back. Now of course the recipe is easy to hand when ever I need it.

I hope you like it - it is gorgous!

This recipe will make approximately 3lb / 1.5 kg of preserve

900g /2lb plums - stoned and pitted and cut into quarters
450g /1lb of carrots - grated
600ml / 1pint of malt vinegar
350g / 12 oz of raisins
450g / 1 lb of light brown sugar
1 garlic clove - crushed
5ml / 1 tsp of chilli powder
15ml / 1 tbsp of ground ginger - or a knuckle worth of finely chopped fresh ginger
30ml / 2 tbsp of salt

Mix together the plums, carrots and vinegar, bring to the boil and then simmer for about 10 minutes until the mix is tender. Stir in all the remaining ingredients and simmer for about 20 minutes until the mixture is thick. Stir well, then spoon into heat sterilised jars and leave to cool. Seal and label.

How easy is that?
.
For related articles click onto:
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How to Grow Artichokes from Seed
How to Grow your own Garlic in the Garden
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How to Make my Recipe for English Onion Soup
How to Make my Recipe for Parsley Soup
How to Make old Fashioned Fruit Chutney
Which Part of an Artichoke can you eat?

Further reading:
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Detox you Body with Fresh Fruit
Easy to Grow Plants that can Help to Fight Cancer
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Watercress - The New Superfood
Which Fruits and Nuts are Tolerant of Growing in the Shade?
Why Don't we Value our Food Any More?
Why is Fresh Fruit so Good for You?
Images care ofhttp://annie-ayearinthelifeof.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/plums.html

THE ANGEL OF THE AMAZON - Sister Dorothy Stang

Warning! This video clip contains disturbing images.


I was in church last weekend when the priest happened to talk about Sister Dorothy Stang - otherwise known as the Angel of the Amazon. Why? Because earlier that week her story had been covered in one of the weekly christian magazines. It was an incredible account of one womans faith and her defiant stand in protecting the Amazon rainforest and the people whose lives depend upon its existence. Although her violent death occured several years ago it was the first I had heard of her story which is why I am sharing it with you today.

Sister Dorothy was originally from Dayton, Ohio, where she attended Julienne High School. It was while she was a student that she decided to become a nun and when she left the school she joined the convent of the Sisters of Notre Dame de Namur in Cincinnati. The order, founded in France in the early 18th century, is a proponent of liberation theology and social justice. Its mission statement dedicates the order to "take our stand with poor people especially women and children, in the most abandoned places".

Her beliefs took her to Brazil in the 1960s and it was there - in the vast Para region, which encompasses large tracts of rainforest - that she found her calling, despite the obvious dangers she faced. The stakes could not have been higher. Greenpeace estimates that 90 per cent of the timber in Para is illegally logged and the danger of speaking out against such exploitation could barely have been greater.

And yet this fight appeared to energise the sprightly 74-year-old. Samuel Clements - a student film-maker from Britain who spent the summer of 2003 filming Sister Dorothy's work - said she seemed to become a different, more animated person once she travelled into the jungle to meet with the small farmers and peasants. In addition to fighting to preserve the rainforest she was helping encourage small-scale, sustainable agriculture.

In a recent letter to Mr Clements, she wrote: "Our forest is being overtaken by the others daily ... together we can make a difference."

Mr Clements also believed Sister Dorothy may have had a premonition of the fate that awaited her and yet she still looked for the best in people. "She said once 'Humanity is like a fruit bowl, with all the different fruit - black, white and yellow - so different and yet all part of it'. She had incredible energy even though she was fighting incredible battles," he said.

Sister Dorothy Stang lived among those who wanted her dead and was in the Boa Esperanca settlement when they finally came for her. She faced the hired assassins as she was walking to a meeting to discuss a recent spate of house burnings by ranchers meant to intimidate poor farmers into abandoning their land. “You men are armed," she said. “I am not. The only defense I carry is the Word of God." She began to read from scripture, “Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven." The two gunmen listened for a moment, took a few steps back, and fired. The 74-year-old Stang died quickly from six shots to the head and chest. Her body was found face down in the mud, blood staining the back of her white blouse.

The two men travelling with her escaped unhurt.

The murder of Sister Dorothy triggered waves of outrage among environmental and human rights activists who say she dedicated her life to helping the area's poor, landless peasants and confronting the businesses that see the rainforest only as a resource to be plundered and which have already destroyed 20 per cent of its 1.6 million square miles.

Sister Dorothy's supporters say there is little doubt as to who was responsible. While the local people called her Dora or "the angel of the Trans-Amazonian", loggers and other opponents called her a "terrorist" and accused of supplying guns to the peasants. The Pastoral Land Commission of the Roman Catholic Church, which she worked for, said in a statement: "The hatred of ranchers and loggers respects nothing. The reprehensible murder of our sister brings back to us memories of a past that we had thought was closed."

From those who worked with the nun, there were promises that the effort she had undertaken would continue despite her death. Mariana Silva, president of Brazil's National Institute for Settlement and Agrarian Reform said: "We won't step back even one millimetre from our projects in Para because of this. They want to intimidate us but they won't succeed."

We pray that her death was not in vain.

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