ORGANIC CONTROL OF AHPIDS ON ROSES



Is there anything more perfectly English than the unblemished blooms of a traditional Tea rose? The fact that their roots (historical that is) originate far on the other side of the world is neither here nor there as without their quintessential show and fragrance how you can possibly make an Englishman’s home his garden?

Beneath the surface of its skin deep beauty, a secret struggle of chemical and biological warfare rages, and much like any other arms race the stakes just keep getting higher.

As more of our garden pests become resistance to insecticidal chemicals we are force to develop newer and more effective replacements, but at what cost? If this cycle of resistance and development isn’t broken then it’s the environment that pays while big chemical manufacturers line their pockets by feeding off our weakness for perfection.

There are numerous enemies that we must defend our beloved blooms from, but one rises above all the others to give us our greatest threat. Stealthily they attack, confusing us with their many faces, but we will name them one by one, Blackfly, greenfly, and whitefly.

Camouflaged by colour, they cannot hide the truth that they are all related to that same heinous family - the aphids! Their destructive hypodermic mouth parts drain the plants of their strength as well as disfiguring soft new shoots. Even more sinister is that they too trade in biological warfare by transferring viruses from plant to plant in their saliva. This is the plant world’s despicable equivalent to sharing dirty needles.

Perhaps we should look to Ghandi for inspiration and try to find a more a peaceful solution that doesn’t involve the wholesale and indiscriminate destruction of other beneficial insects. We could use ‘organic’ insecticides such as pyrethrum derivatives or fatty acid sprays (but please avoid the flowers), but that’s just what they would expect us to do. There is another way, a two pronged attack using companion planting and natural predators.

COMPANION PLANTING

This can work in two ways.

The companion plant itself can discourage your rose pests. Planting garlic - or catmint in among your rose displays is a tried and tested method of deterring aphids.

It’s believed that essentials oils released from the companion plants help to mask the Roses own fragrance making it difficult for aphids to identify their host plants, but don’t worry as your nose won’t be sensitive enough to tell the difference, unless you crush the leaves first! Click here to learn How to Grow Garlic.

Using the right companion plants can positively encourage aphid predators. These include marigolds, cosmos, sunflowers, fennel, dill, and yarrow. These will attract deadly battle groups of damselfly, hoverflies, lacewings, ladybirds, whitefly and parasitic wasps to your defence. With the exception of cosmos it will also provide you with a nice selection of home grown, dig for victory, herbs.

NATURAL PREDITORS

Without understanding the life cycles of these natural predators you can never expect to get the best out of them. By creating the right habitats in our garden, we can help to promote and encourage each of their life cycles.

This can be achieved by providing log piles that, when allowed to rot naturally, will create a fantastic haven for them in the garden. Although not normally regarded as an aspirational want, the common nettle is also a fantastic plant for encouraging insects into the garden, supporting over 40 species of insect including some of our most beautiful butterflies.

LADYBIRDS

Ladybirds - also known as ‘ladybugs’ – are one of the more easily identifiable aphid predators and can eat over 5000 aphids (or other soft body insects) during their lifetime which is usually about a year. Surprisingly there are about 42 species found in the UK, and although most have the common red and black colouration you will find there are other combinations such as yellow with black spots, and white with black spots.

It is not just the adult ladybird that seems to have an almost insatiable appetite for aphids their larvae will also forage aggressively for aphids.

Adult Ladybirds lay up to 50 yellow Ladybird eggs per day on the undersides of leaves. This equates to up to 1500 eggs in their lifetime although some of the eggs are infertile, thought to be used as a food source for juvenile ladybird larvae.

Most ladybird varieties are excellent predators of pest insects and can usually be found in the garden from March to October.

LACEWINGS

Lacewings are common insects in British gardens and are easy to recognise by their transparent lace-like wings, which are nearly twice as long as the abdomen. Although adult lacewings feed only on pollen and nectar, their larvae will voraciously attack almost any prey they can fit in their mouths although they seem to have a preference for aphids, other soft-bodied insects and their eggs. In fact the adults will seek out areas of honey dew - the sugary solution excreted by aphids - in order to find suitable places for laying their eggs.

Lacewing larvae have unusual sucking mouthparts made up of a pair of extremely long, slender and conspicuous mandibles – jaws - that curve forward from the front of the head. These mandibles are tubular in structure, like a pair of hypodermic needles, and are sunk into their preys body and then used to suck out the bodily fluids.

Lacewings can be encouraged to remain in your garden by providing homes for their winter hibernation. That way they will be ready to lay their eggs and help to control your aphids when they emerge from hibernation in the spring.

HOVERFLIES

Hoverflies are easily recognised by their generally bright colours and hovering ability. They use bright colours so as to mimic wasp colouration to avoid attack by birds and other predators. While the adult hoverflies will spend much of their life on flowers, feeding on pollen and nectar, their well camouflaged larvae will go largely unnoticed as they crawl over foliage in search of their aphid prey.

Over 250 species have been recorded in the UK, and in fact more than 85 species have been found in a single garden. You can expect to see adult hoverflies between March and early November.

Now that the battle plans are in place we can look towards the new rose planting season with a brave new hope. Good luck and we hope to see you on the other side.
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For further information click onto:

HOW CAN YOU GET RID OF THE RED LILY BEETLE?

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So how do you kill the scarlet lily beetle? This is quite possibly the best question I have asked this summer. Why, because my prized Nepalese lilies are covered in them and I have already spent over an hour this morning popping and squishing both the red adults and their evil looking larval children. My first recommendation is to wear gloves when commencing this course of action but unfortunately I saw red (how appropriate) as I cast my eyes over the ravaged mess that was once luxuriant foliage.

The problem with lily beetles is that when they are disturbed, they have this irritating habit of dropping to the ground and lying motionless on their backs. This makes it the devils own job to try and find them if your lilies are growing in the ground. Furthermore, if left unchecked, lily beetles will couple frantically and lay their eggs hidden from view on the underside of the lilies leaves.

In a further attempt to avoid discovery, the dull orange larvae will first hatch, then cover themselves with excreta to deter predators allowing themselves to feast on both the lily leaves and flowers with impunity! Once they have had their fill they will drop to the floor and bury themselves in the soil beneath your plants in order to pupate before hatching out in their scarlet adult form. In this manner they are more than capable of producing multiple generations in a single year. This is why it is important to regularly check your lily plants late in the season, even when there are no longer any flowers. You really cannot take your eye of the ball with regards to this.

Control

Because of the juveniles effective camouflage and the adults capacity to hid and drop out of site, squashing lily beetles as a control method may not be particularly practical, although it can me extremely satisfying. As a far more effective measures go - and particularly with heavy infestations - you may need to apply a systemic insecticidal spray.

While this may not be an environmentally ethical method of controlling lily beetle, at least it will work, but I will advise that you do not apply this group of chemicals to you plants while they are in flower, otherwise beneficial pollinating insects can be seriously affected.

Alternatively, use a contact insecticide such as Permethrin, one of the Pyrethroid insecticides. Just be aware that you will need to apply Permethrin on a regular basis and it will only kill what it touches. As mentioned before, do not spray the flowers as again, it will kill beneficial pollinating insects.

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Pests and Diseases of Box Hedging Plants
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Pests and Diseases of Watercress
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Primrose and Cowslip Pests and Diseases
Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants
Sacrificial Planting
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Strawberry Plant Pests and Diseases
Tulip Diseases
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What are the Safe Organic Alternative to Slug Pellets
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What is Chlorosis?
What is Damping Off Disease?
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Based on an article by http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/6169622/Pests-how-to-get-rid-of-lily-beetles.html
Photo care of http://www.ashdongardeningclub.co.uk/ and http://www.rainydaymagazine.com/RDM2005/RDMHomeMay2005.htm

ORGANIC CONTROL OF CARROT FLY


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Carrot fly is a small black-bodied fly whose larvae feed on the roots of carrots and related plants. In fact carrot fly is the most problematic pest of carrots, able to make the large proportion of your carrot crop inedible!

What are the symptoms of carrot fly?

You can generally spot carrot fly from rusty brown scars that ring the tap roots. This makes the carrot inedible, and susceptible to secondary rots.

When the roots are cut through, you will see that small tunnels are revealed, often inhabited by slender creamy-yellow maggots up to 9mm long.

Organic control

1. Sow your carrot seed sparsely to avoid thinning the seedlings out later on.

2. Female carrot flies searching for egg-laying opportunities are attracted by the smell released when surplus carrot seedlings are removed. With that in mind, never leave your thinnings on the ground - always remove and destroy.

3. Late sown carrots (after mid-May) avoid the first generation of this pest; similarly carrots harvested before late August avoid the second generation.

4. Protect vulnerable crops by surrounding them with 2ft) high barriers made of clear polythene to exclude the low-flying female flies. Alternatively, cover the plants with horticultural fleece. It is essential to practise crop rotation when growing carrots, otherwise adult carrot flies may emerge within the protected crop from overwintered pupae in the soil.

5. Choose carrot cultivars that are less susceptible to carrot fly, such as 'Fly Away', 'Maestro', 'Resistafly' and 'Sytan'. Be aware however that there is no such thing as a carrot fly proof variety, only carrot fly resistant.

6. A mixture of pathogenic nematodes, can be watered into the soil to control the young larvae. This is available by mail order from biological control suppliers.

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Are Slug Pellets Poisoning Our Wildlife
Blight Resistant Tomatoes
Carrot Fly Resistant Carrot Varieties
Clubroot in Brassicas
Clubroot Resistant Brassicas
Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes
Common Tomato Pests and Diseases
Dahlia Pests and Diseases
Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Grey Mould on Tomatoes
How and Why does Over-watering Kill Plants?
How can you get Rid of the Red Lily Beetle?
How do you Control Codling Moth on Apples
How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Flea Beetles on Lettuce
How to Control Greenhouse Whitefly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Leaf Miner on Tomato Plants
How to Control Mosaic Virus on Tomato Plants
How to Control Slug Damage on Potato Tubers
How to get rid of Aphids on Roses
How to Make a Natural and Organic Insecticide for Aphids
How to Make your Own Organic Pyrethrum Insecticide
How to Recognise Potato Blight
How to Recognise Vine Weevil Damage on Plants
How to Save and Recover an Over-watered Plant
Organic and Cultural Control of Potato Blight
Organic Control of Aphids on Lettuce
Organic Control of Aphids on Roses
Organic Control of Codling Moth
Organic Control of Grey Mould on Tomato Plants
Organic Control of Vine Weevils
Pests and Diseases of Box Hedging Plants
Pests and Diseases of Hellebores
Pests and Diseases of Watercress
Poinsettia Pests and Diseases
Primrose and Cowslip Pests and Diseases
Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants
Sacrificial Planting
Slug and Blight Resistant Potato Varieties
Strawberry Plant Pests and Diseases
Tulip Diseases
What are the Natural Predators of Plant Lice?
What are the Safe Organic Alternative to Slug Pellets
What is Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes?
What is Chlorosis?
What is Damping Off Disease?
What is the Tulip Breaking Virus?
What is Tomato Blight?
Which Native Animals Eat Slugs and Snails
Which Plants Attract Aphid Predators to the Garden?

Based on an article by http://apps.rhs.org.uk/advicesearch/profile.aspx?pid=485
Photo care of http://gardentherapy.ca/tag/carrot-rust-fly/ and http://www.self-sufficient.co.uk/Carrot-Fly.htm and http://www.dgsgardening.btinternet.co.uk/carrotrf.htm

BUY ANGEL'S TRUMPET SEED


If you are looking to buy angels trumpet seed, you are in luck. The 'Garden of Eaden' seed shop now has angels trumpet seed in stock as part of its standard range. Just click on the links to be directed to the new and improved seed shop.

‘Angels Trumpet’ is the common name associated with plants from either the Datura or the Brugmansia family and for good reason to – both of these spectacular natives of South America will make a stunning addition to any tropical effect garden.

Often confused with its close relation the Datura, the Brugmansia is distinctly different in that it can grow as large into a small tree whereas Datura's are annuals and will only attain the size of a small bush. In addition, the majority of Brugmansia will display their dramatic flowers pointing downwards while those of a Datura will point upwards.

As a generalisation, the Angel's Trumpet, is a large, shrub-like, fragrant flowering plant that behaves like an annual in colder climates, although it can survive winters as far north as zone 5. However, young seedlings will fare better if they don't face a late spring frost. Start seeds indoors, and transplant them after the last expected spring frost date.

Sow Angels Trumpet seed from February to March. To help with germination, soak Angels Trumpet seed in warm water for 24 hours before sowing.

Place seed on the surface of lightly firmed, moist seed compost in pots or trays and cover with a fine sprinkling of compost or vermiculite. Gently water, then seal container inside a polythene bag and keep at a temperature of between 15-20ÂșC. After sowing, do not exclude light as this helps germination. Try to keep the surface of the compost moist but not waterlogged. The seed should germinate within 14-30 days.


When large enough to handle, transplant seedlings into 3in pots or trays. Plant out once plants are well grown approximately 5ft apart or transplant into 10in containers. For best results, provide a moist, well-drained soil in full sun. Do not feed the plants at this point, but water well.

Provide a minimum winter temperature of 7C  (they may need to be brought in under protection to achieve this) and reduce watering over the winter. Angel's Trumpet plants require minimal pruning, and the removal of old flower heads - although plants can be cut back to base during spring to rejuvenate every few years.

For more information click onto:
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Photo care of http://www.jaxshells.org/datura.htm and http://www.garden.ie/whatsnew.aspx?id=77&archive=1002 and http://lucidconsciousness.com/psychotropia/?attachment_id=202 and http://explorepharma.wordpress.com/2010/09/27/datura-stramonium/

ROME: Villa Adriana - Tivoli



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The ancient remains found at Villa Adriana are part of a site covering an area of at least 80 hectares. Constructed at Tibur (modern-day Tivoli) in 117 A.D, Villa Adriana began its existence as an imperial palace far away from the city of Rome. It remains one of the most remarkable examples of imperial and dynastic palace and has been recognised as such by being appointed as a Human Heritage Monument by UNESCO.

Little is left of the magnificent decoration of the Villa - the result of treasure hunting excavations and the consistent theft of its brick and marble. Through out the centuries it had been common practice to remove marble so that it could be burned to make lime. Because so few marble fragments survive, most of today's visitors to Villa Adriana have no idea that this place was almost entirely paved with luxury marble pavements. Further more, the walls were completely covered from top to bottom with marble panels.

Rumour has it that the Emperor Hadrian disliked his imperial palace on the Palatine Hill so much that during the later years of his reign, he actually governed the Roman Empire from his villa at Tibur. How did he achieve this? By creating a dedicated postal service that ran from Villa Adriana to Rome 18 miles away to the west.

After Hadrian’s death, the villa remained in use by his various successors, but during the decline of the Roman Empire, Villa Adriana fell into disuse and was partially ruined. But it didn’t all go to waste. In the 16th century Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este - son of Lucretia Borgia – was granted the position of Governor of Tivoli. In this position of considerable power he had much of the marble and statues found at Hadrian's villa removed and used to decorate his own Villa - Villa D'Este - which was located nearby.


Even if they are almost two thousand years old, the ruins at Villa Adriana remain imposing, and have fascinated architects and artists throughout the ages. Visiting the site in search of inspiration, they copied the shapes of the domes and tried to uncover, and then master, their technical building secrets. By walking around the grounds of Villa Adriana, you are treading in the footsteps of Master as this place was visited and studied by the likes of Raphael, Michelangelo, and Borromini.

One of the most striking and best preserved features of the Villa are a pool and an artificial grotto which were named Canopus and Serapeum, respectively. Canopus was an Egyptian city which housed a temple was dedicated to the god Serapis – hence the name Serapeum. However, the architecture is Greek influenced as can be seen in the Corinthian columns and copies of famous Greek statues that surround the pool. One story involves the Serapeum and its peculiarly-shaped dome. A prominent architect of the day, Apollodorus of Damascus, dismisses Hadrian's designs, comparing the dome on Serapeum to a pumpkin! Apparantly, Aplooldorus was quoted as saying "Go away and draw your pumpkins. You know nothing about these [architectural] matters." Once Hadrian became emperor, Apollodorus was exiled and later put to death.

Another interesting structure in the Villa is the so-called "Maritime Theatre’ which consists of a round portico with a barrel vault supported by pillars. Inside the portico was a ring-shaped pool with a central island. During the ancient times the island was connected to the portico by two drawbridges. On the island sits a small Roman house complete with an atrium, a library, a triclinium and small baths. The area was probably used by the emperor as a retreat from the busy life at the court.

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Villa d'Este
Photographs of Villa Adriana by me, if you want to use some for your own stuff then email me. You will find it under my profile.

HOW FAST IS A SNAIL?


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How fast is a snail? A more relevant question is perhaps '...how slow is a snail..?'

The answer is very slow indeed. In fact, someone when to the effort of recording the speed of a snail in 1970 and it turned out to be 0.00758 miles - equal to 40 feet or 12.2 meters - per hour.

However the information doesn't stop there! The fastest moving species of land snail - which is probably the common garden snail (Helix aspersa) - can travel at a rate of 0.03 miles (158.5 feet or 48.3 meters) per hour.

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Photo care of http://askville.amazon.com/Ole-Woolys-strange-useless-knowledge/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=56717881

WHAT ARE FRANKINCENSE AND MYRRH?


Most of us have heard of Frankincense Myrrh, even if it is only within the context of the Nativity. As you will no doubt remember, Frankincense and Myrrh were two of the trinity of gifts given to Mary and Joseph by the wise men in celebration of the birth of Jesus Christ.

However, what are Frankincense and Myrrh and where do they come from?

Myrrh

Myrrh is the dried oleo gum resin of a number of trees from the Commiphora or Dhidin species of trees. The Myrrh trees are found as either small or low thorny shrubs that grow in rocky terrain. Like frankincense, myrrh resin it is produced by the tree as a reaction to a wound that has broken through the bark and into the sapwood. The trees are bled in this way on a regular basis.

When left on the tree, myrrh is waxy and brittle, but after the resin is collected into large bales it becomes a dry, hard and glossy substance that can be clear or opaque, and vary in colour. Depending on aging, this colour can range from yellowish to almost black, with white streaks.

The principal species is Commiphora myrrha, which is native to Yemen, Somalia, and the eastern parts of Ethiopia. Another important species is C. momol. The related Commiphora gileadensis, native to Eastern Mediterranean and particularly the Arabian Peninsula, is the biblically referenced Balm of Gilead. Furthermore, there are still several other tree species that yield bdellium, and Indian myrrh.

Myrrh the 'bitter' Facts

The term is derived from the Aramaic ÜĄÜȘܝÜȘܐ (murr), meaning "bitter". Its name entered the English language from the Hebrew Bible where it is called mor, ŚžŚ•Śš, and later as a Semitic loan word was used in the Greek myth of Myrrha, and later in the Septuagint; in the Greek language, the related word ÎŒÏÏÎżÎœ became a general term for perfume.

So valuable has it been at times in ancient history that it has been equal in weight value to gold. During times of scarcity its value rose even higher than that.

Myrrh has been used throughout history as a perfume, incense and medicine.

Frankincense

Frankincense begins its journey by being tapped from the very scraggly but hardy Boswellia tree. This is achieved by slashing the bark and allowing the exuded resins to bleed out and harden. These hardened resins are known as tears. There are numerous species and varieties of frankincense trees, each producing a slightly different type of resin. Differences in the soil and local climate will create even more diversity of the resin, even within the same species.

Frankincense trees are also considered unusual for their ability to grow in environments so unforgiving that they sometimes grow directly out of solid rock. The means of initial attachment to the stone is not known but is accomplished by a bulbous disk-like swelling of the trunk. This disk-like growth at the base of the tree prevents it from being torn away from the rock during the violent storms that frequent the region they grow in. This feature is slight or absent in trees grown in rocky soil or gravel. The tears from these hardier survivors are considered superior for their more fragrant aroma.

The trees will begin to produce their resin when they are about 8 to 10 years old. Tapping the tree for resin is done 2 to 3 times a year with the final taps producing the best tears due to their higher aromatic terpene, sesquiterpene and diterpene content. Generally speaking, the more opaque resins are the best quality. Dhofari frankincense (from Boswellia sacra) is said to be the best in the world, although fine resin is also produced more extensively in Yemen and along the northern coast of Somalia, from which the Roman Catholic Church draws its supplies.

Recent studies have indicated that frankincense tree populations are declining due to over-exploitation. Heavily tapped trees have been found to produce seeds that germinate at only 16% while seeds of trees that had not been tapped germinate at more than 80%.

Frankincense begins its journey by being tapped from the very scraggly but hardy Boswellia tree. This is achieved by slashing the bark and allowing the exuded resins to bleed out and harden. These hardened resins are known as tears. There are numerous species and varieties of frankincense trees, each producing a slightly different type of resin. Differences in the soil and local climate will create even more diversity of the resin, even within the same species.

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Based on the article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myrrh
Photo care of http://adkaromatherapy.blogspot.com/ and http://www.biolandes.com/en-natural-essential-oils.php?lg=en&huile=o&pays=&id=&voyage= and http://erikastern.blogspot.com/

Photos care of http://www.dgaryyoung.com/blog/2010/12/ and http://www.scientificamerican.com/
Based on an article by http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frankincense

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A FRUIT AND A VEGETABLE?


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On deciding on whether something is either a fruit or a vegetable you have two choices.

1. What is its true botanical description , while the other is...

2. What it is commonly considered to be?

The botanical definition of a fruit is the often fleshy part of a plant that surrounds the seeds. By this definition apples, pumpkins, eggplants, peppers, squashes, rose hips, peppers, beans, and corn kernels are all fruits. All other edible plant parts are considered vegetables. Lettuce, carrots, onions, rhubarb, potatoes and spinach for example are all vegetables.

The vegetable group can be sub divided further in to:

1. Roots
2. Tubers
3. Bulbs
4. Stems
5. Legumes
6. Aqueous
7. Leaves
8. Flower Heads
9. Fungi

The popular definitions of fruit and vegetable are somewhat different from the technical definitions. Most people will categorize 'vegetables' as foods that are eaten as part of a meal's main course and 'fruits' as foods that are eaten for dessert or as a snack.

So my question to you is this:

Is a tomato a fruit or a vegetable - (you can't use 'salad' as an answer)

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Pictures care of me and http://feelgoodstyle.com/category/winter/
Based on an article by http://www.enotes.com/science-fact-finder/food-nutrition/what-difference-between-fruit-vegetable

HOW TO GROW HOLLY FROM SEED


Holly berries ripen in the late autumn, usually in November or December, which is why they make such great Christmas decoration. They sometimes remain on the tree throughout the winter, so could possibly be collected as late as April the following year. Berries are stripped from the trees by hand.

The collected berries should be separated from any twigs and ‘de-bunched’. They can be left in buckets or baskets for a week or two, provided they are stored in a cool, dry place.

You have a choice now. Do you want nature take its course or do you want to pre-treat the seed - stratification - to speed up germination?

Natures way

Mix the seeds with equal parts horticultural sand or a sand/compost mixture. Use 50% leafmould or peat-free compost and 50% horticultural sand. For each handful of seeds add two or three handfuls of mixture. Select a pot that has enough room for this seed/sand mixture (and a bit more) and put a layer of stones in the bottom. Cover the stones with sand. Place the seed/sand mixture on top of this and cover this with 2-3cm sand. Label the pot and stand in a shady spot outdoors.

The pot needs to remain outside for eighteen months. This is where patience is required! Water the pots if they show signs of drying out and protect from birds and mice if they discover your seeds. We will be sowing the seeds the second spring following collection. Holly seed has a very hard outer seedcoat that needs a full summer (warm temperatures) to break down, allowing oxygen and water to reach the embryo tree inside.

Stratification

You will need to stratify holly seeds in order to break the dormancy period. To achieve this, place a 1-inch layer of damp moss peat over the bottom of a zip top plastic bag. Place the holly seeds onto the moss peat and cover them with secondary 1-inch layer of damp moss peat.

Seal the zip top bag and store it at about 3 - 4 degrees Celsius for four to five months. The salad drawer in the bottom of your refrigerator will work well for this.

Remove the seeds from their chilled area in the spring or early summer as they will now be ready for sowing.

How to sow Holly Seeds

Plant the holly seeds out in a nursery bed in the garden. An area that has deep, loamy soil and full to part shade is ideal. Avoid areas that are prone to periods of standing water during the year.

Plant holly seeds ¾ to 1 inch deep and cover with soil. Keep the area damp with frequent, light water applications.

Place a tomato cage or other wire structure over the seedlings when they emerge to protect the young holly plants from being trampled.

Spread a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost over the seedbed to add nutrients to the soil and encourage strong seedling development. Keep the compost back 2 inches from the young holly plants to avoid smothering them.

Transplant the holly seedlings into their permanent position when they are 12 inches tall. Dig down 12 to 18 inches when transplanting to avoid damaging the taproot. Dig out the root ball 24 inches in diameter.

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Based on an article by http://www.ehow.com/how_8143594_grow-holly-bushes-seeds.html and http://treegrowing.btcv.org.uk/grow/tree-recipes/holly

Photo care of http://www.rampantscotland.com/colour/supplement051203.htm