Wednesday, 6 April 2011

HOW TO GROW TOMATOES FROM SEED


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Tomatoes are the mainstay of sandwich fillers, healthy salads and the starting point for many popular dishes. The trouble is that the tomatoes you buy in the supermarkets are grown to a set of standards - none of which include flavour! So don't be surprised when you cut open your shop bought tomato and find that it is watery and tastless! You don't think so? Then try eating a naturaly produced tomato that has been grown in soil rather than scientifically produced in inert rockwool and fed on drip irrigation!

The fact is that tomatoes are one of the easiest crops to produce, and so as long as you have a place outside that gets some sun then there is no reason why you can't grow your own.

Tomatoes are grown as tender annual plants in most regions, but they are actually classed as short lived perennials in the tropics of south America - their native environment.  To get the most out of you tomato crop they will require high light intensity and a temperature of 21 - 24C, however they will lose vigour if kept above 27C or below 16C . Just remember that tomato plants will not tolerate frost.

Sowing the Seed
Tomato seed is quite easy to handle and is best germinated using a standard seed tray filled with John Innes 'Seed and Cutting' compost. Space the seed evenly and then cover with about 1.5mm of compost. Tomato seedlings will ususally germinate in about 7 to 14 days at a temperature of around 21C . For the best sowing times, see the recommendations listed in 'greenhouse' or 'outdoor' cultivation below. Pot tomato seedlings on when they are large enough to handle without the need to touch the stem.

Just by handling the leaves, transplant them carefully into 3inch pots using John Innes No.1 potting compost. If only a few plants are required, sow two seeds into a 3 inch pot and after germination remove the smaller plant. Take care not to let the plant and seedlings get cold as frost, cold winds and draughts will cause the plants to turn bluish and in most cases die. If you live in a cold area wait a few extra weeks until the air temperature has risen. Check the compost at all stages for dryness. This is vital in the intitial stages of germination as drought can cause poor germination or failure to germinate at all. If this is the case, add a little clean water from below, being careful not to over water. Too much water can kill seedlings just as easily, as it can spread water borne fungal diseases such as 'damping off'

Greenhouse Cultivation
For greenhouse tomatoes first pick a recommended variety such as 'Santa', 'Matador', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Supersteak' and sow as directed on the individual seed packet. This will generally be from late December/early January onwards and straight into 3 inch pots.

Plant the young plants when they are about 6-8 inches tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open. If you are planting into your greenhouse border make sure you have dug in plenty of organic compost during the winter.

If you have used the border before for tomatoes, it is better to change the soil or sterilise it before using it for tomatoes again. This will help avoid soil pests and root diseases becoming a problem. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot just remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more then two plants per bag.

Outdoor Cultivation
For growing tomatoes outside, first pick a recommended variety such as 'Gardeners Delight', 'Sungold', 'Money Maker' or 'Sweet 100' or try 'Tumbler' in a flower pouch or hanging basket.

Wait until approximately 6-8 weeks before the last frost is forecast and sow as directed on the individual seed packet in 7.5cm (3in) pots.

When all risk of frost has past and when the plants are about 15-20cm (6-8in) tall and the flowers of the first truss are just beginning to open, you can plant them out. If you are planting into your border make sure you have dug in plenty of garden compost or peat during the winter. Just before planting, rake in a general purpose fertiliser. If you are going to use a growbag or pot remember they will require a lot more watering and care. Plant approximately 45cm (18 in) between the plants and 75cm (30in) between the rows. In a growbag, generally plant no more than two plants per bag

Training Plants
How to train or when to pick your fruit will depend on the varieties and types of tomatoes grown. Cordon (indeterminate) varieties will need their side shoots removed, determinate varieties may stop flower production after several trusses, but upward growth can be carried on by training up the topmost side shoot.

Bush varieties will remain low and will not need their side shoots removal. Tomatoes require a lot of water and feed to get the best fruit. Water little and often for the best results. Feed with a general liquid feed until the first truss is formed then alternate with a high potash feed. This will encourage more flowers and fruit.

For more information click onto:
Blight Resistant Tomatoes
Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes
Common Tomato Pests and Diseases
Detox you Body with Fresh Fruit
Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Grey Mould on Tomatoes
How to Avoid E.Coli when Preparing Salads
How to Catch Crayfish
How to Collect and Prepare Tomato Seeds for Propagation
How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Greenhouse Whitefly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Leaf Miner on Tomato Plants
How to Control Mosaic Virus on Tomato Plants
How to Germinate and Grow Cucumbers from Seed
How to Germinate and Grow Melon Plants from Seed
How to Germinate and Grow Okra from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Aloe vera from Seed
How to Grow Aubergines From Seed
How to Grow Avocado from Seed
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How to Grow the Angel's Trumpet from Seed
How to Grow Basil from Seed Indoors
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How to Grow Cabbage from Seed
How to Grow Carrots from Seed
How to Grow Celery from Seed
How to Grow Chinese Spinach from Seed
How to Grow Cucumbers from Seed
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How to Grow Giant Onions
How to Grow Greenhouse Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Marrows from Seed
How to Grow Okra from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow Outdoor Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Peppers from Seed
How to Grow Red Kidney Beans from Dried Seed
How to Grow Rocket from Seed
How to Grow Spinach from Seed
How to Grow Sweet Corn from Seed
How to Grow Sweet Potatoes
How to Grow Sweet Potatoes in Pots or Containers
How to Grow Tomatoes - Growbags or Soil?
How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed
How to Propagate and Grow Chili Peppers from Seed
How to Propagate and Grow Sweet Peppers from Seed
How to Propagate and Grow the Bell Pepper from Seed
How to Sow and Grow Courgettes from Seed Indoors
How to Sow and Grow Courgettes from Seed Outdoors
How to Sow and Grow Spring Onions from Seed
How to Take Cuttings from Sweet Potatoes
Organic Control of Grey Mould on Tomato Plants
Recipe for Tangy Tomato Soup
Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants
Salad Crops for Late Summer/Autumn Planting
The 'Garden of Eaden' Seed Shop
Tomato Plants from Seed
Tomato Soup
What is Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes?
What is Damping Off Disease?
What is Tomato Blight?
Which Salad Crop Seeds can be sown in August?
Which Vegetable Seeds can be Sown in January?
Why haven't my Seeds Germinated?

Article courtesy of Thompson and Morgan

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