HOW TO MAKE MY RECIPE FOR PARSLEY SOUP


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If you love making home made soups, but get a bit disappointed with the flavour sometimes – then you are going to love this one. I never intended to use this site for recipes but this soup is soooo full of flavour I just had to publish it.
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If I kept it to myself I would be almost doing the entire world a dis-favour. I say almost because you need to be in a climate where you can grow plenty of parsley. If you are buying parsley from the supermarket, the quantity required can make this soup quite expensive - especially if you make it as often as I do! Even so it will be worth it.
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If I am being honest, I have eaten almost every batch of parsley soup entirely by myself - the very same day! Worse still, one time I didn’t tell the family I made it so that I could scoff the lot. I am so bad, but so is this soup - in a Michael Jackson way of course.

However, my addiction to parsley soup might be due to a peculiar palette. Either way - I LOVE THIS SOUP!

.SERVES 6 - OR JUST ME!

.INGREDIENTS
25g (1 oz) unsalted butter
1 large onion
1 clove of garlic – not absolutely necessary but it does make a difference, plus it’s good for the heart!
3 celery sticks
150g (6 oz) fresh parsley (don't be fooled by the weight - this is a lot of parsley)
4tsp plain flour (for thickening)
900ml (1 1/2 pints) vegetable or chicken stock
Salt and pepper
A heaped tablespoon of double cream
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PREPARATION
Finely chop the onion and garlic and then slice the celery. Chop the parsley roughly, discarding any long or thick stalks.

Gently melt the butter in a large saucepan and as soon as it starts to simmer add the onion, garlic, celery and parsley. Cook until the ingredients have softened, then stir in the flour.

Cook for a further minute or two – stirring the mix at all times - before adding the stock.
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Simmer for 25 minutes, then allow to cool slightly before you purée the mixture with a blender.
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Reheat, add salt and pepper as required, then add the cream before serving in a heated bowl with a sprig of parsley.

Taste test first, then decide whether you should tell anyone else you made it. I hope that you enjoy this recipe for Parsley soup as much as I do.
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For related articles click onto:
Asparagus Soup
Chicken Soup
Chocolate Cookies
Christmas Cookie Recipe
How to Grow Basil
How to Grow Garlic
How to Grow Garlic in Pots and Containers
How to Grow Onions From Seed
How to Grow Onions from Onion Sets
How to Grow Parsley from Seed in Outdoor Beds
How to Grow Parsley from Seed Indoors
How to make Plum Chutney
How to Make Spicy Pumpkin Soup
How to Make my Recipe for English Onion Soup
How to Make old Fashioned Fruit Chutney
How to Make Spicy Pumpkin Soup
My Recipe for Globe Artichoke with Dijon Mustard
Recipe for Blood Red Halloween Soup
Leftover Turkey Recipe - Turkey and Mayonnaise
How to Make Stock from Chicken Bones
How to Make Stock from Turkey Bones
Leftover Turkey Recipe - Turkey and Broccoli Bake
Onion Soup
Parsley Soup
Recipe for Asparagus Quiche
Recipe for Cherry Pie
Peanut Butter Cookies
Recipe for Chocolate Cookies
Recipe for Christmas Pudding
Recipe for Strawberry Cheesecake
Recipe for Spicy Pumpkin Soup
Recipe for Tagines
Recipe for Tangy Tomato Soup
Scotch Broth
The Peanut
Tomato Soup
Turkey Soup
Roman Bread
Why Don't we Value our Food Any More?
Photograph cortesy of Plumpest Peach
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IS GARLIC GOOD FOR THE HEART?


CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN WEBSITE' AND SEED SHOP
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The healing properties of garlic have for centuries been the stuff of legend.
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Considered to be a 'herbal wonder drug', it has been used for warding off evil spirits, and the occasional suitor if eaten in the right quantity. It has also been attributed to being a cure for the common cold, influenza and even the plague!

Unfortunately - up until now - the health benefits of eating garlic haven’t been much more than supposition wrapped in an old wives tale, but things are about to change.

Researchers from the University of Alabama at Birmingham have recently discovered that eating garlic really does help to keep the heart healthy. It's all down to the chemical allicin – the same chemical responsible for creating the sulphur compounds which makes your breath smell.
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In low concentrations, allicin will react with red blood cells to produce tiny amounts of hydrogen sulphide within the blood vessels. The Hydrogen sulphide then stimulates the cells that form the lining of the blood vessels causing the vessels to dilate. This in turn reduces blood pressure allowing the blood to carry more oxygen to essential organs, and reducing pressure on the heart.
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In addition, low concentrations of allcin also play a vital role in helping cells to communicate with each other.

Lead researcher Dr David Kraus had this to say on the matter:

‘…Our results suggest garlic in the diet is a very good thing. Certainly in areas where garlic consumption is high, such as the Mediterranean and the Far East, there is a low incidence of cardiovascular disease…’

Judy O'Sullivan, a cardiac nurse at the British Heart Foundation, added:

‘…This interesting study suggests that garlic may provide some heart health benefits. It is important to note that large amounts in supplement form may interact with blood thinning drugs and could increase the risk of bleeding...’
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WARNING. Of course, raw garlic is very strong and eating significant amounts can produce health problems. Too much, and you can risk causing irritation - or even worse - damage to the digestive tract. There are also a minority of people who are allergic to garlic. Symptoms of a garlic allergy include skin rash, temperature and headaches.
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DISCOVERED - NEW SPECIES OF UK BAT


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A species of bat that has never been seen before in the United Kingdom has been found in caves in Yorkshire and Sussex - although they are now believed to be present in other parts of the country.

Identified by researches from Leeds and Sheffield universities as part of a recent Europe wide bat survey, this new species - known as the Alcathoe's bat - had probably managed to escaped detection because of its size. Its tiny - even for a bat - no more than the size of the end of your thumb.

Surprisingly, the Alcathoe bat was first discovered in Greece in 2001 and is considered to be a native of continental Europe. The reason why this new species has only recently come to light is because its appearance is so similar to other species. In fact it was only a few years ago that the UK’s most common bat - the pipistrelle - was actually found to be made up of two different species.
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Previously thought to be too small and weak to have crossed the Channel, the survey suggests that the British population may be quite large. The bats were trapped as they flew into underground swarming sites where thousands of bats from many species mate before hibernating for winter.

This discovery now takes the number of bat species established in the UK from 16 to 17.
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HOW DO HIGH NITRATE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?


CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN WEBSITE' AND SEED SHOP

Fish which are kept by enthusiasts are usually held in a closed body of water such as a garden pond or fish tank.
.
Unfortunately, these relatively small volumes can create something of an ‘un-natural’ environment – often unsustainable without human intervention. This is because toxins from the fish, uneaten fish food and pollution from the general environment can – over time - build up in concentrations which are harmful to your fish’s health. In an open system of water such as the ocean or a river, levels of toxicity can be diluted but the introduction of new or fresh water or they can be absorbed safely by aquatic plants, algae and bacteria as part of their normal metabolic processes.

One of the more problematical toxins that are found within a closed system is nitrate. To be sure whether nitrate levels are toxic to your fish you will need to purchase a nitrate testing kit from your local aquatic specialist. You may need to research the appropriate nitrate level tolerable for your specific fish. Most popular fish will be happy in nitrate levels less than 100 ppm, however more sensitive species will require a lower level otherwise they may succumb to nitrate poisoning - particularly if levels remain high. The resulting stress will leaves fish more susceptible to disease and inhibits their ability to reproduce. For all intents and purposes levels it best that levels stay below the 50ppm mark.
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SYMPTOMS
Fish with nitrate poisoning will often appear very sluggish. Their gills will be opening and closing rapidly and they will often be found swimming at the surface of the tank ‘gasping’ for air. Occasionally you will be able to notice brown or yellowish discolorations of the gills.
.Higher or prolonged exposure to high levels of nitrate will show signs of loss of appetite, fish resting on the bottom, a bent or curled positioning of the body, crooked spine, uncontrolled swimming or swimming in circles, spasms or twitching. Usually at this point the fish is unlikely to survive!

HOW TO REDUCE HIGH NITRATE LEVELS
The first and perhaps the easiest way to reduce nitrate levels is to perform a partial water change of no more than 25%. Make sure that the temperature of the new water is as approximate to the contaminated water as possible and add a suitable dechlorinator if your new water is obtained directly from the mains water supply. It is advisable as part of your normal maintenance to perform partial water changes once every 2 – 4 weeks..With an aquarium you could consider using a siphon gravel cleaner to perform your water changes as you will be able to remove any natural waste products - uneaten food, fish poo, rotting vegetation – that could be responsible for high nitrate levels from the bottom of the tank at the same time.
.
Look at the amount of food that you are feeding your fish. Overfeeding is an easy and quick way to spoil your water quality. Always use a good quality food and feed no more than you fish will eat within 60 seconds. If any food is left after feeding – remove it!
.
Keep your filters in tip top condition by following the manufactures maintenance instructions.Consider adding live plants to your pond/aquarium as a natural way to remove nitrites form the water. However, sickly or dying plants will be contributing to the problem so make sure that they are removed on sight.
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For related articles click onto:
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HOW TO SOW AND GROW SPRING ONIONS FROM SEED



When growing spring onions from seed, the secret is in the preparation. To begin with you need a sunny site with good drainage but the key is to grow them in a permanent bed in order to build up the soil fertility. There is a down side to this however as you can also encourage the build up of diseases. With that in mind it's advisable to periodically rotate your onion bed with the rest of the vegetable garden.
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If you can, start preparing your spring onion bed in the autumn by digging in plenty of well-rotted farm manure. This will give the ground a chance to settle over the winter period and allow frosts to break down the soil clods. If you soil is too acidic – below pH 5.5 – you will need to add lime to it according to manufactures recommendations. In general, onions prefer a pH of between 6 and 7.5.
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It's possible to grow good spring onions on heavy soil, but you must improve the drainage first before planting. Add plenty of horticultural grit and bulky organic matter to the soil and then create a ridges of soil 4 inches high to further reduce soil moisture.
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You can sow spring onion seeds as soon as your soil will allow which can be any time from late February until the end of July, but you can steal a march here by picking a dry day a few weeks before sowing time and raking the soil to a fine tilth.
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Spring onions like a firm bed so tread over the area you have just raked. Try adding a general fertiliser like growmore for extra fertility, and for an even earlier crop you can sow spring onion seed under glass or cloches in January..
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Choose a dry day to sow spring onion seed when the soil is moist but not too wet, then plant the seed very thinly into drills ½ inch deep. If you are planting more than one row then each row should be at least 4 inches apart. Carefully cover the spring onion seed with soil and gently water in.
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Germination should then take approximately 21 days to occur. Once the new seedlings have began to push through the soil they can be thinned out to between 1 and 2 inches apart. Remember to clear away all of your discarded thinning so as not to attract onion fly.
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You will need to keep a particular eye on the newly sprouting onion shoots as these will often attract the attention of inquisitive birds – particularly pigeons and black birds - who will lift your juvenile crops straight out of the seed beds for nothing more than a little mischievous fun. If you don't have some kind of protection in place you can end up loosing almost an entire crop!
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Onions are not very good at supressing weed growth, and if regular weeding is neglected they will easily be out competed for nutrients resulting in your crop becoming stunted. Try to leave enough space between the rows to get your hoe in for weeding, but always hand-weed any weeds close to your spring onions as they can be easily damaged by garden tools.
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For further information click onto:
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WHICH VEGETABLE SEEDS CAN BE SOWN AND GROWN IN APRIL?


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April is the last month when you can make an early start on germinating most of the popular vegetables from seed. Although the days are often warm and sunny, it is easy to forget that overnight temperatures can plummet. Without adequate protection, new growth and tender plants can easily become affected by cold damage wasting valuable production time and money.
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The key advantage to growing vegetables from seed at this time of year is to have seedlings of a suitable size for planting outside once the threat of late frosts are over. Keeping and maturing these crops under protection will dramatically bring forward their harvesting period enabling you to pick fully ripen produce months before you would normally expect!
.Below is a list of the most popular vegetable and salad crops for sowing indoors or outside under protection in April.

Aubergines
Click on the link below for more information:

Beetroot
Click on the link below for more information:

Broad Beans
Click on the link below for more information:

Cabbage

Calabrese

Cauliflower

Courgettes

Cucumbers
Click on the link below for more information:

Brussel Sprouts

Lettuce
Click on the link below for more information:

Marrows

Parsnips

Peas
Click on the link below for more information:

Peppers
Click on the links below for more information:

Pumpkins
Click on the link below for more information:

Radish
Click on the link below for more information:

Salad Leaves
Click on the link below for more information:

Spring Onions

Tomatoes
Click on the links below for more information:
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For more information on the seasonal planting of seeds click onto:
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HOW TO GROW CHINESE SPINACH FROM SEED


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Chinese spinach - otherwise known as the edible amaranth - is an ancient food plant native to South America. So revered was it in ancient Inca and Aztec cultures that it was considered to be a sacred plant.
.Leaves of the Chinese spinach are high in protein and although nutritionally similar to beets, Swiss chard and spinach, they are actually far superior. For example, Chinese spinach leaves contain three times the amount of both calcium and niacin (vitamin B3) compared to regular spinach leaves.

Because of their sub-tropical origins, Chinese spinach will do particularly well in warm climates, so much so, that it if you are growing it using the ‘cut-and-grow-again method’ it can be harvested a mere 30 days after sowing.
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When planting directly into the ground, Chinese spinach seeds will germinate more successfully if they are sown into a finely prepared seed bed that receives adequate moisture. This can be done anytime from April onwards so long as the threat of late frosts are over. However, it is more important to make sure that soil temperatures are averaging above 16 degrees Celsius - you will be able to sow them earlier if they can be given the protection of a small poly-tunnel. Of course, once the weather stays consistently warm the cover can be removed.
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Thinly sow the seed into rows 12 inches apart with each row spaced up to two feet apart. Cover with a 1/4 inch of soil, firm gently, and keep moist and weed free. When they are large enough, thin the seedlings out to approximately 1 plant for every 3 inches when using Chinese spinach for baby leaf, or 8 inches apart for producing mature plants. If you wish, any thinnings collected can be eaten as you would do with baby leaf salad or they can be added as part of a stir fry.

Some Chinese spinach varieties can get quite tall and may need the support of canes. Check the height of you crop before you sow so that you can place your canes before the plants are of a size that the roots can become damaged by their insertion.

In northern European climates, you should be able to harvest your first Chinese spinach crop from June up until October.

If you are using the crop for baby leaves, only pick a few leaves per plant. For mature plants, harvest leaves and stem from the top to encourage further side shoots. Remove any flowers as soon as their buds appear otherwise leaf production will come to an end.

For more information click onto:
How to Collect and Prepare Butternut Squash Seeds for propagation
How to Collect and Prepare French and Runner Beans for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Lettuce seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Melon and Cucumber Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Hardy Passion Flower Seed for Sowing
How to Collect and Prepare Pea Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Pumpkin Seeds for Germination
How to Collect and Prepare Strawberry Seed for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Sweet and Chilli Pepper Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect and Prepare Tomato Seeds for Propagation
How to Collect, Prepare, and Save Okra Seed for Germination
How to Germinate and Grow Cucumbers from Seed
How to Germinate and Grow Melon Plants from Seed
How to Germinate and Grow Okra from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Artichokes from Seed
How to Grow Asparagus from Seed
How to Grow Aubergines From Seed
How to Grow Autumn Sowings of Sweet Peas
How to Grow Basil from Seed
How to Grow Basil from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Beetroot from Seed
How to Grow Broad Beans from Seed
How to Grow Brussels Sprouts from Seed
How to Grow Butternut Squash from Seed
How to Grow Cabbage from Seed
How to Grow Citrus from Seed
How to Grow Eggplants from Seed
How to Grow Greenhouse Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Jalapeno Peppers from Seed
How to Grow a Lemon Tree from Seed
How to Grow Lettuce From Seed
How to Grow Okra from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow an Orange Tree from Seed
How to Grow Oregano from Seed
How to Grow Outdoor Tomato Plants from Seed
How to Grow Parsley from Seed Indoors
How to Grow Peppadew Peppers from Seed
How to Grow Pumpkins from Seed
How to Grow the Pyrethrum Daisy from Seed
How to Grow Radish from Seed
How to Grow Red Kidney Beans from Dried Seed
How to Grow Spinach from Seed
How to Grow Strawberries from Seed
How to Grow Sweet Corn from Seed
How to Grow Tomatoes?
How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed
How to Grow the Autumn Broad Bean 'Aquadulce Claudia'
How to Grow the Autumn Fava Bean 'Aquadulce Claudia'
How to Grow Watercress from Seed
How to Grow Winter Lettuce from Seed
How to Plant and Grow Artichokes
How to Grow Autumn Sowings of Broad Beans
How to Propagate and Grow Sweet Peppers from Seed
How to Propagate and Grow the Bell Pepper from Seed
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PRIVACY POLICY for www.gardenofeaden.com

At Eaden Horticulture we are committed to protecting and preserving the privacy of our visitors when visiting our site or communicating electronically with us. Our Privacy Policy has been provided and approved by the online solicitors at LegalCentre.co.uk.

This Privacy Policy contains an explanation of what happens to personal data that you choose to provide to us, or that we collect from you whilst you visit this site. Our Privacy Policy should be read in conjunction with our terms of website use.

We do occasionally update this Policy so please do return and review this Policy from time to time.

Information We Collect
In running and operating this website we may collect and process certain data and information relating to you and your use of this site. This data and information is detailed below:
i. Details of visits to our website and the pages and resources that are accessed, including, but not limited to, traffic data, location data and other communication data that may assist us in understanding how visitors use this website.
ii. Information that visitors provide to us as a result of filling in forms on our website, such as when a visitor registers for information or makes a purchase. .
iii. Information provided to us when our visitors communicate with us electronically for any reason.

Use of Cookies
Cookies are sometimes used to improve the website experience of a visitor to a website. We may sometimes use cookies on this website to record aggregate statistical information about the visitors to our site and the use that our visitors make of the website. When collected this information is used by us to improve our website and further enhance the visitor experience and, may be shared with advertisers. Pease note that no personally identifiable information is recorded.

We may also use the cookies to gather information about your general internet use to further assist us in developing or website. Where used, these cookies are downloaded to your computer automatically. This cookie file is stored on the hard drive of your computer. Cookies contain information that is transferred to your computer's hard drive and then stored there and transferred to us where appropriate to help us to improve our website and the service that we provide to you.

All computers have the ability to decline cookies. You can easily decline or remove cookies from your computer using the settings within the Internet Options section in your computer control panel.

Our advertisers may also use cookies on their website. We have no control over this and you should review the privacy policy of any advertiser that you visit as a result of an advert or link on this website.

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The information we collect is used for our own use in developing our website and also occasionally by advertisers on this site. In addition, we may use the information for the following purposes:

i. To provide you with information relating to our website, products or our services that you request from us.
ii. To provide you with information on other products that we feel may be of interest to you.
iii. To meet our contractual obligations to you.
iv. To notify you about any changes to our website, including improvements, and service or product changes that may affect our website.

If you are an existing customer, we may contact you with information about goods and services similar to those that you have expressed an interest in previously via our website.

Finally, we may use your data, or allow carefully selected third parties to use your data, so that you can be provided with information about unrelated goods and services which we consider are likely to be of interest to you. We or they may contact you about these goods and services by any of the methods that you consented to at the time your information was collected.

If you are a new customer, we will only contact you or allow third parties to contact you only when you have provided consent and, only by those means you provided consent for.

If you do not want us to use your data for our or third parties use then you wil always have the option to object to such use.

Storing Your Personal Data
Information that we collect may on occasion be transferred and stored outside of the European Union for the purpose of supplying our goods or services to you. By submitting your personal data, you agree to this transfer, storing or processing. We will always take all reasonable precautions to make sure that your data remains secure and is handled in accordance with this Privacy Policy.

Data that is provided to us is stored on our secure servers. Details relating to any transactions entered into on our site will be encrypted to ensure its safety.

The transmission of information via the internet is not completely secure and therefore we cannot guarantee the security of data sent to us electronically and transmission of such data is therefore entirely at your own risk. Where we have given you (or where you have chosen) a password so that you can access certain parts of our site, you are responsible for keeping this password confidential.

Disclosing Your Information
Where applicable, we may disclose your personal information to any member of our group. This includes, where applicable, our subsidiaries, our holding company and its other subsidiaries (if any).

We may also disclose your personal information to third parties:
i. Where we sell any or all of our business and/or our assets to a third party.
ii. Where we are legally required to disclose your information.
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You mind find links to third party websites on our website. These websites should have their own privacy policies which you should check. We do not accept any responsibility or liability for their policies whatsoever as we have no control over them.

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The Data Protection Act 1998 gives all individuals the right to access personal information that is held about them. You can request a copy of any information that we hold about you. Please note that any request for this information may be subject to payment of £10 which covers our administrative costs. Please contact us if you wish to make such a request.

Contacting Us
If you have any questions or queries relating to this Privacy Policy then please contact us at gardenofeaden@googlemail.com
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HOW DO HIGH NITRITE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?


CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN WEBSITE' AND SEED SHOP

Fish which are kept by enthusiasts are usually held in a closed body of water such as a garden pond or fish tank.
.
Unfortunately, these relatively small volumes can create something of an ‘un-natural’ environment – often unsustainable without human intervention. This is because toxins from the fish, uneaten fish food and pollution from the general environment can – over time - build up in concentrations which are harmful to your fishes health. In an open system of water such as the ocean or a river, levels of toxicity can be diluted but the introduction of new or fresh water or they can be absorbed safely by aquatic plants, algae and bacteria as part of their normal metabolic processes.

One of the more problematical toxins that are found within a closed system is nitrite. To be sure whether nitrite levels are toxic to your fish you will need to purchase a nitrite testing kit from your local aquatic specialist. You may need to research the appropriate nitrite level tolerable for your specific fish. Most popular fish will be happy in nitrite levels less than 20 ppm, however more sensitive species will require a lower level otherwise they may succumb to nitrite poisoning.

NITRITE – N02
Nitrite is formed when Nitrosomonas sp. bacteria oxidise ammonia. Although it is less toxic than ammonia, elevated levels will still present a threat to fish health. Prolonged exposure at low levels can lead to stress and is often associated with stress-related disease such as bacterial ulcers and fin-rot. At high levels, skin and gill epithelia can be damaged and opportunistic bacteria and parasites may take advantage of stressed fish. The main danger is from nitrite being actively transported across the gills and into the fish’s bloodstream where it oxidises normal haemoglobin into methemoglobin. Normal haemoglobin picks up oxygen at the gills and transports it to the body tissues where it is exchanged for carbon dioxide. Methemoglobin cannot transport oxygen and therefore - in acute cases - fish will be effectively asphyxiated.
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At low levels of NitrIte concentrations you may find fish rubbing against solid objects. As levels increase fish will become lethargic, but may still swim up to feed. If the fish is suffering from nitrite poisoning, the gills will change from a healthy pinkish/red to a pale tan to dark brown in colour. The fish may also show signs of respiratory distress, i.e gasping at the water surface or hanging around water inlets.

HOW TO REDUCE HIGH NITRITE LEVELSThe first and perhaps the easiest way to reduce nitrite levels is to perform a partial water change of no more than 25%. Make sure that the temperature of the new water is as approximate to the contaminated water as possible and add a suitable dechlorinator if your new water is obtained directly from the mains water supply. It is advisable as part of your normal maintenance to perform partial water changes once every 2 – 4 weeks.
.
With an aquarium you could consider using a siphon gravel cleaner to perform your water changes as you will be able to remove any natural waste products - uneaten food, fish poo, rotting vegetation – that could be responsible for high nitrite levels from the bottom of the tank at the same time.

Look at the amount of food that you are feeding your fish. Overfeeding is an easy and quick way to spoil your water quality. Always use a good quality food and feed no more than you fish will eat within 60 seconds. If any food is left after feeding – remove it!

Keep your filters in tip top condition by following the manufactures maintenance instructions.

Consider adding live plants to your pond/aquarium as a natural way to remove nitrites form the water. However, sickly or dying plants will be contributing to the problem so make sure that they are removed on sight.

For related articles click onto:
How to Maintain and Look after Biological Pond Filters
How to Grow Watercress from Seed
How to Make a Wildlife Pond
Native Pond Plants
Non-Native Invasive Species - The American Signal Crayfish
Pests and Diseases of Watercress
Tips For Maintaining and Looking after a Healthy Pond
Watercress - Nasturtium officinaleWatercress - The New Superfood
What Causes Pond Water Problems and How to Avoid Them
What Causes Pond Water to go Frothy?
Why Shark Fin Soup is Devastating World Shark Populations
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DISCOVERED - GIANT MONITOR LIZARD



A previously unknown species of monitor lizard has been discovered in a mountainous region of the Philippines.
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Although familiar to the resident Agta and Ilongot tribes people, scientists were unaware of its existence until an international team of colleagues from the US, Philippines and The Netherlands surveyed a series of lizard specimens in museums both within the US and Philippines.

The 2m-long reptile – which has been described as spectacular by the scientists who found it - has bright yellow, blue and green skin, and survives on a diet of just fruit. It also has unique claws which allow the monitor to spend most of its time in the treetops so it to reach its favorite fruits.
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This is significant as it makes this new animal one of just three species of fruit-eating monitor lizards in the world that are known to science. Unfortunately all of these specialist fruit eating lizards have seen their numbers drop significantly due to habitat destruction, and trapping for the pet trade.

Dr Rafe Brown, one of the scientists who described the new lizard in the journal 'Biology Letters' has called this new monitor ‘… an incredible animal…’, even so, it has still been given the relatively dry name of Varanus bitatawa.

How this particularly large lizard has managed to remain undiscovered by scientists until now is somewhat of a mystery, especially as there has been a significant number of research teams working in the northern Philippines in recent years.

The research team themselves say it may be because the lizard is highly secretive in nature and is rarely seen outside the forest or crosses open country. This is probably in no small part due to the fact that it is meat is highly prized by the local tribe’s people who hunt it for food. Whatever the reason, this significant new find shows the importance of protecting a diminishing, natural environment as we are clearly at risk of losing species to extinction before they are even discovered.

For related articles click onto:
Why Should we Protect the Rainforest?

Photograph courtesy of nydailynews.com
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HOW TO SOW AND GROW WATERMELON FROM SEED INDOORS



Watermelons have been grown for their deliciously sweet flesh for over 3000 years.
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Believed to have originated in southern Africa, the popularity of this fruit has seen it spread across the globe.
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History tells us that by the 10th century AD, watermelons were being cultivated in China, which today is the world's single largest watermelon producer. By the 13th century, Moorish invaders had introduced the fruit to Europe; and, according to John Mariani's The Dictionary of American Food and Drink, 'watermelon' made its first appearance in an English dictionary in 1615.
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Direct sowing into the ground is the best way to grow watermelons from seed but for those of us who live in cooler, northern European climates, you will need to start your melon seed off indoors. This gives the resulting seedlings a fighting chance to produce and ripen their fruit in a much shorter growing period.
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Sowing Seed Indoors
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Sow the seeds indoors around the middle of March into either 2-3 inch pots or large, modular seed trays. Use good quality loam based compost such as John Innes ‘seed and potting’, and avoid the temptation of using standard seed trays because you will want to disturb the root system as little as possible. You may wish to add a little extra horticultural grit or perlite to you compost mix as this will help with the drainage.

Melon seedlings will require plenty of water to ‘fuel’ their vigorous growth, but you don’t want to attract fungal infections through overwatering. The extra drainage will help to reduce this.

.Fill the pots/modules to between half and three quarters full, then using a dibber - or something similar - make a hole in the compost about 1 inch deep – one hole in each container. Now place 2 - 3 melon seeds in each hole, cover with compost and gently water in. To help with germination they will need to be moved to a warm sunny windowsill, preferably above a radiator. Allow the soil to become almost dry before further watering.

After a couple of weeks the seed will begin to show signs of germination. As mentioned before, young melon plants will require plenty of water and nutrition to grow, so feed them regularly with a 50% strength liquid fertilizer. Just make sure that they are never left waterlogged otherwise root damage and fungal infections can occur. At this time you can remove the weakest seedling so that only the strongest remains.

Once the threat of late frosts are over the melon seedlings can be planted outside into their final position but they will need to be hardened off for at least a week or two before hand. They will do best in a sunny, protected position with a slightly acid soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5.

Remember that because of their origins Melons are cold-sensitive so keep an eye on both air and soil temperatures before planting out. They will prefer growing temperatures of between 70° and 80° F, but if cold weather does threaten the young melon plants would do well to have some kind of protection such as a mini poly-tunnel or cloche. If practical, they would benefit from being planted into a temporary cold-frame which could be removed during the heat of the summer.
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