HOW TO MAKE MY RECIPE FOR PARSLEY SOUP






If you love making home made soups, but get a bit disappointed with the flavour sometimes – then you are going to love this one. I never intended to use this site for recipes but this soup is soooo full of flavour I just had to publish it.
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If I kept it to myself I would be almost doing the entire world a dis-favour. I say almost because you need to be in a climate where you can grow plenty of parsley. If you are buying parsley from the supermarket, the quantity required can make this soup quite expensive - especially if you make it as often as I do! Even so it will be worth it.
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If I am being honest, I have eaten almost every batch of parsley soup entirely by myself - the very same day! Worse still, one time I didn’t tell the family I made it so that I could scoff the lot. I am so bad, but so is this soup - in a Michael Jackson way of course.

However, my addiction to parsley soup might be due to a peculiar palette. Either way - I LOVE THIS SOUP!

.SERVES 6 - OR JUST ME!

.INGREDIENTS

25g (1 oz) unsalted butter
1 large onion
1 clove of garlic – not absolutely necessary but it does make a difference, plus it’s good for the heart!
3 celery sticks
150g (6 oz) fresh parsley (don't be fooled by the weight - this is a lot of parsley)
4tsp plain flour (for thickening)
900ml (1 1/2 pints) vegetable or chicken stock
Salt and pepper
A heaped tablespoon of double cream
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PREPARATION


Finely chop the onion and garlic and then slice the celery. Chop the parsley roughly, discarding any long or thick stalks.

Gently melt the butter in a large saucepan and as soon as it starts to simmer add the onion, garlic, celery and parsley. Cook until the ingredients have softened, then stir in the flour.

Cook for a further minute or two – stirring the mix at all times - before adding the stock.
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Simmer for 25 minutes, then allow to cool slightly before you purée the mixture with a blender.
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Reheat, add salt and pepper as required, then add the cream before serving in a heated bowl with a sprig of parsley.

Taste test first, then decide whether you should tell anyone else you made it. I hope that you enjoy this recipe for Parsley soup as much as I do.
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For related articles click onto:
Asparagus Soup
Chicken Soup
Chocolate Cookies
Christmas Cookie Recipe
Gardenofeaden
How to Grow Basil
How to Grow Basil from Seed Outdoors
How to Grow Garlic
How to Grow Garlic in Pots and Containers
How to Grow Onions From Seed
How to Grow Onions from Onion Sets
How to Grow Parsley from Seed in Outdoor Beds
How to Grow Parsley from Seed Indoors
How to make Plum Chutney
How to Make Spicy Pumpkin Soup
How to Make my Recipe for English Onion Soup
How to Make old Fashioned Fruit Chutney
How to Make Spicy Pumpkin Soup
My Recipe for Globe Artichoke with Dijon Mustard
Recipe for Blood Red Halloween Soup
Leftover Turkey Recipe - Turkey and Mayonnaise
How to Make Stock from Chicken Bones
How to Make Stock from Turkey Bones
Leftover Turkey Recipe - Turkey and Broccoli Bake
Onion Soup
Parsley Soup
Recipe for Asparagus Quiche
Recipe for Cherry Pie
Peanut Butter Cookies
Recipe for Chocolate Cookies
Recipe for Christmas Pudding
Recipe for Crumble
Recipe for Strawberry Cheesecake
Recipe for Spicy Pumpkin Soup
Recipe for Tagines
Recipe for Tangy Tomato Soup
Rhubarb Crumble
Scotch Broth
The Peanut
Tomato Soup
Turkey Soup
Roman Bread
Why Don't we Value our Food Any More?
Photograph cortesy of Plumpest Peach

HOW DO HIGH NITRATE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?




Fish which are kept by enthusiasts are usually held in a closed body of water such as a garden pond or fish tank.

Unfortunately, these relatively small volumes can create something of an ‘un-natural’ environment – often unsustainable without human intervention. This is because toxins from the fish, uneaten fish food and pollution from the general environment can – over time - build up in concentrations which are harmful to your fish’s health. In an open system of water such as the ocean or a river, levels of toxicity can be diluted but the introduction of new or fresh water or they can be absorbed safely by aquatic plants, algae and bacteria as part of their normal metabolic processes.

One of the more problematical toxins that are found within a closed system is nitrate. To be sure whether nitrate levels are toxic to your fish you will need to purchase a nitrate testing kit from your local aquatic specialist. You may need to research the appropriate nitrate level tolerable for your specific fish.

Most popular fish will be happy in nitrate levels less than 100 ppm, however more sensitive species will require a lower level otherwise they may succumb to nitrate poisoning - particularly if levels remain high. The resulting stress will leaves fish more susceptible to disease and inhibits their ability to reproduce. For all intents and purposes levels it best that levels stay below the 50ppm mark.
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SYMPTOMS

Fish with nitrate poisoning will often appear very sluggish. Their gills will be opening and closing rapidly and they will often be found swimming at the surface of the tank ‘gasping’ for air. Occasionally you will be able to notice brown or yellowish discolorations of the gills.
Higher or prolonged exposure to high levels of nitrate will show signs of loss of appetite, fish resting on the bottom, a bent or curled positioning of the body, crooked spine, uncontrolled swimming or swimming in circles, spasms or twitching. Usually at this point the fish is unlikely to survive!

HOW TO REDUCE HIGH NITRATE LEVELS

The first and perhaps the easiest way to reduce nitrate levels is to perform a partial water change of no more than 25%. Make sure that the temperature of the new water is as approximate to the contaminated water as possible and add a suitable dechlorinator if your new water is obtained directly from the mains water supply.

It is advisable as part of your normal maintenance to perform partial water changes once every 2 – 4 weeks..With an aquarium you could consider using a siphon gravel cleaner to perform your water changes as you will be able to remove any natural waste products - uneaten food, fish poop, rotting vegetation – that could be responsible for high nitrate levels from the bottom of the tank at the same time.

Look at the amount of food that you are feeding your fish. Overfeeding is an easy and quick way to spoil your water quality. Always use a good quality food and feed no more than you fish will eat within 60 seconds. If any food is left after feeding – remove it!

Keep your filters in tip top condition by following the manufactures maintenance instructions.Consider adding live plants to your pond/aquarium as a natural way to remove nitrites form the water. However, sickly or dying plants will be contributing to the problem so make sure that they are removed on sight.

HOW TO SOW AND GROW SPRING ONIONS FROM SEED





When growing spring onions from seed, the secret is in the preparation. To begin with you need a sunny site with good drainage but the key is to grow them in a permanent bed in order to build up the soil fertility. There is a down side to this however as you can also encourage the build up of diseases. With that in mind it's advisable to periodically rotate your onion bed with the rest of the vegetable garden.
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If you can, start preparing your spring onion bed in the autumn by digging in plenty of well-rotted farm manure. This will give the ground a chance to settle over the winter period and allow frosts to break down the soil clods. If you soil is too acidic – below pH 5.5 – you will need to add lime to it according to manufactures recommendations. In general, onions prefer a pH of between 6 and 7.5.
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It's possible to grow good spring onions on heavy soil, but you must improve the drainage first before planting. Add plenty of horticultural grit and bulky organic matter to the soil and then create a ridges of soil 4 inches high to further reduce soil moisture.
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You can sow spring onion seeds as soon as your soil will allow which can be any time from late February until the end of July, but you can steal a march here by picking a dry day a few weeks before sowing time and raking the soil to a fine tilth.
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Spring onions like a firm bed so tread over the area you have just raked. Try adding a general fertiliser like growmore for extra fertility, and for an even earlier crop you can sow spring onion seed under glass or cloches in January..
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Choose a dry day to sow spring onion seed when the soil is moist but not too wet, then plant the seed very thinly into drills ½ inch deep. If you are planting more than one row then each row should be at least 4 inches apart. Carefully cover the spring onion seed with soil and gently water in.
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Germination should then take approximately 21 days to occur. Once the new seedlings have began to push through the soil they can be thinned out to between 1 and 2 inches apart. Remember to clear away all of your discarded thinning so as not to attract onion fly.
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You will need to keep a particular eye on the newly sprouting onion shoots as these will often attract the attention of inquisitive birds – particularly pigeons and black birds - who will lift your juvenile crops straight out of the seed beds for nothing more than a little mischievous fun. If you don't have some kind of protection in place you can end up loosing almost an entire crop!
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Onions are not very good at supressing weed growth, and if regular weeding is neglected they will easily be out competed for nutrients resulting in your crop becoming stunted. Try to leave enough space between the rows to get your hoe in for weeding, but always hand-weed any weeds close to your spring onions as they can be easily damaged by garden tools.
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For further information click onto:

WHICH VEGETABLE SEEDS CAN BE SOWN AND GROWN IN APRIL?





April is the last month when you can make an early start on germinating most of the popular vegetables from seed. Although the days are often warm and sunny, it is easy to forget that overnight temperatures can plummet. Without adequate protection, new growth and tender plants can easily become affected by cold damage wasting valuable production time and money.
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The key advantage to growing vegetables from seed at this time of year is to have seedlings of a suitable size for planting outside once the threat of late frosts are over. Keeping and maturing these crops under protection will dramatically bring forward their harvesting period enabling you to pick fully ripen produce months before you would normally expect!
.Below is a list of the most popular vegetable and salad crops for sowing indoors or outside under protection in April.

Aubergines
Click on the link below for more information:

Beetroot
Click on the link below for more information:

Broad Beans
Click on the link below for more information:

Cabbage

Calabrese

Cauliflower

Courgettes

Cucumbers
Click on the link below for more information:

Brussel Sprouts

Lettuce
Click on the link below for more information:

Marrows

Parsnips

Peas
Click on the link below for more information:

Peppers
Click on the links below for more information:

Pumpkins
Click on the link below for more information:

Radish
Click on the link below for more information:

Salad Leaves
Click on the link below for more information:

Spring Onions

Tomatoes
Click on the links below for more information:
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For more information on the seasonal planting of seeds click onto:

PRIVACY POLICY for www.gardenofeaden.com

At Eaden Horticulture we are committed to protecting and preserving the privacy of our visitors when visiting our site or communicating electronically with us. Our Privacy Policy has been provided and approved by the online solicitors at LegalCentre.co.uk.

This Privacy Policy contains an explanation of what happens to personal data that you choose to provide to us, or that we collect from you whilst you visit this site. Our Privacy Policy should be read in conjunction with our terms of website use.

We do occasionally update this Policy so please do return and review this Policy from time to time.

Information We Collect
In running and operating this website we may collect and process certain data and information relating to you and your use of this site. This data and information is detailed below:
i. Details of visits to our website and the pages and resources that are accessed, including, but not limited to, traffic data, location data and other communication data that may assist us in understanding how visitors use this website.
ii. Information that visitors provide to us as a result of filling in forms on our website, such as when a visitor registers for information or makes a purchase. .
iii. Information provided to us when our visitors communicate with us electronically for any reason.

Use of Cookies
Cookies are sometimes used to improve the website experience of a visitor to a website. We may sometimes use cookies on this website to record aggregate statistical information about the visitors to our site and the use that our visitors make of the website. When collected this information is used by us to improve our website and further enhance the visitor experience and, may be shared with advertisers. Pease note that no personally identifiable information is recorded.

We may also use the cookies to gather information about your general internet use to further assist us in developing or website. Where used, these cookies are downloaded to your computer automatically. This cookie file is stored on the hard drive of your computer. Cookies contain information that is transferred to your computer's hard drive and then stored there and transferred to us where appropriate to help us to improve our website and the service that we provide to you.

All computers have the ability to decline cookies. You can easily decline or remove cookies from your computer using the settings within the Internet Options section in your computer control panel.

Our advertisers may also use cookies on their website. We have no control over this and you should review the privacy policy of any advertiser that you visit as a result of an advert or link on this website.

Use of Your Information
The information we collect is used for our own use in developing our website and also occasionally by advertisers on this site. In addition, we may use the information for the following purposes:

i. To provide you with information relating to our website, products or our services that you request from us.
ii. To provide you with information on other products that we feel may be of interest to you.
iii. To meet our contractual obligations to you.
iv. To notify you about any changes to our website, including improvements, and service or product changes that may affect our website.

If you are an existing customer, we may contact you with information about goods and services similar to those that you have expressed an interest in previously via our website.

Finally, we may use your data, or allow carefully selected third parties to use your data, so that you can be provided with information about unrelated goods and services which we consider are likely to be of interest to you. We or they may contact you about these goods and services by any of the methods that you consented to at the time your information was collected.

If you are a new customer, we will only contact you or allow third parties to contact you only when you have provided consent and, only by those means you provided consent for.

If you do not want us to use your data for our or third parties use then you wil always have the option to object to such use.

Storing Your Personal Data
Information that we collect may on occasion be transferred and stored outside of the European Union for the purpose of supplying our goods or services to you. By submitting your personal data, you agree to this transfer, storing or processing. We will always take all reasonable precautions to make sure that your data remains secure and is handled in accordance with this Privacy Policy.

Data that is provided to us is stored on our secure servers. Details relating to any transactions entered into on our site will be encrypted to ensure its safety.

The transmission of information via the internet is not completely secure and therefore we cannot guarantee the security of data sent to us electronically and transmission of such data is therefore entirely at your own risk. Where we have given you (or where you have chosen) a password so that you can access certain parts of our site, you are responsible for keeping this password confidential.

Disclosing Your Information
Where applicable, we may disclose your personal information to any member of our group. This includes, where applicable, our subsidiaries, our holding company and its other subsidiaries (if any).

We may also disclose your personal information to third parties:
i. Where we sell any or all of our business and/or our assets to a third party.
ii. Where we are legally required to disclose your information.
iii. To assist fraud reduction and minimise credit risks.

Third Party Links
You mind find links to third party websites on our website. These websites should have their own privacy policies which you should check. We do not accept any responsibility or liability for their policies whatsoever as we have no control over them.

Access to Information
The Data Protection Act 1998 gives all individuals the right to access personal information that is held about them. You can request a copy of any information that we hold about you. Please note that any request for this information may be subject to payment of £10 which covers our administrative costs. Please contact us if you wish to make such a request.

Contacting Us
If you have any questions or queries relating to this Privacy Policy then please contact us at gardenofeaden@googlemail.com

HOW DO HIGH NITRITE LEVELS AFFECT FISH HEALTH?




Fish which are kept by enthusiasts are usually held in a closed body of water such as a garden pond or fish tank.

Unfortunately, these relatively small volumes can create something of an ‘un-natural’ environment – often unsustainable without human intervention. This is because toxins from the fish, uneaten fish food and pollution from the general environment can – over time - build up in concentrations which are harmful to your fishes health.

In an open system of water such as the ocean or a river, levels of toxicity can be diluted but the introduction of new or fresh water or they can be absorbed safely by aquatic plants, algae and bacteria as part of their normal metabolic processes.

One of the more problematical toxins that are found within a closed system is nitrite. To be sure whether nitrite levels are toxic to your fish you will need to purchase a nitrite testing kit from your local aquatic specialist.

You may need to research the appropriate nitrite level tolerable for your specific fish. Most popular fish will be happy in nitrite levels less than 20 ppm, however more sensitive species will require a lower level otherwise they may succumb to nitrite poisoning.

NITRITE – N02

Nitrite is formed when Nitrosomonas sp. bacteria oxidise ammonia. Although it is less toxic than ammonia, elevated levels will still present a threat to fish health. Prolonged exposure at low levels can lead to stress and is often associated with stress-related disease such as bacterial ulcers and fin-rot. At high levels, skin and gill epithelia can be damaged and opportunistic bacteria and parasites may take advantage of stressed fish.

The main danger is from nitrite being actively transported across the gills and into the fish’s bloodstream where it oxidises normal haemoglobin into methemoglobin. Normal haemoglobin picks up oxygen at the gills and transports it to the body tissues where it is exchanged for carbon dioxide. Methemoglobin cannot transport oxygen and therefore - in acute cases - fish will be effectively asphyxiated.
.
At low levels of Nitrite concentrations you may find fish rubbing against solid objects. As levels increase fish will become lethargic, but may still swim up to feed. If the fish is suffering from nitrite poisoning, the gills will change from a healthy pinkish/red to a pale tan to dark brown in colour. The fish may also show signs of respiratory distress, i.e gasping at the water surface or hanging around water inlets.

HOW TO REDUCE HIGH NITRITE LEVELS

The first and perhaps the easiest way to reduce nitrite levels is to perform a partial water change of no more than 25%. Make sure that the temperature of the new water is as approximate to the contaminated water as possible and add a suitable dechlorinator if your new water is obtained directly from the mains water supply. It is advisable as part of your normal maintenance to perform partial water changes once every 2 – 4 weeks.
.
With an aquarium you could consider using a siphon gravel cleaner to perform your water changes as you will be able to remove any natural waste products - uneaten food, fish poo, rotting vegetation – that could be responsible for high nitrite levels from the bottom of the tank at the same time.

Look at the amount of food that you are feeding your fish. Overfeeding is an easy and quick way to spoil your water quality. Always use a good quality food and feed no more than you fish will eat within 60 seconds. If any food is left after feeding – remove it!

Keep your filters in tip top condition by following the manufactures maintenance instructions.

Consider adding live plants to your pond/aquarium as a natural way to remove nitrites form the water. However, sickly or dying plants will be contributing to the problem so make sure that they are removed on sight.

For related articles click onto:
Biological Pond Filters
Gardenofeaden
How to Maintain and Look after Biological Pond Filters
How to Grow Watercress from Seed
How to Make a Wildlife Pond
Native Pond Plants
Non-Native Invasive Species - The American Signal Crayfish
Pests and Diseases of Watercress
Tips For Maintaining and Looking after a Healthy Pond
Watercress - Nasturtium officinaleWatercress - The New Superfood
What Causes Pond Water Problems and How to Avoid Them
What Causes Pond Water to go Frothy?
Why Shark Fin Soup is Devastating World Shark Populations

HOW TO SOW AND GROW WATERMELON FROM SEED INDOORS





Watermelons have been grown for their deliciously sweet flesh for over 3000 years.
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Believed to have originated in southern Africa, the popularity of this fruit has seen it spread across the globe.
History tells us that by the 10th century AD, watermelons were being cultivated in China, which today is the world's single largest watermelon producer. By the 13th century, Moorish invaders had introduced the fruit to Europe; and, according to John Mariani's The Dictionary of American Food and Drink, 'watermelon' made its first appearance in an English dictionary in 1615.

Direct sowing into the ground is the best way to grow watermelons from seed but for those of us who live in cooler, northern European climates, you will need to start your melon seed off indoors. This gives the resulting seedlings a fighting chance to produce and ripen their fruit in a much shorter growing period.

Sowing Seed Indoors

.Sow the seeds indoors around the middle of March into either 2-3 inch pots or large, modular seed trays. Use good quality loam based compost such as John Innes ‘seed and potting’, and avoid the temptation of using standard seed trays because you will want to disturb the root system as little as possible. You may wish to add a little extra horticultural grit or perlite to you compost mix as this will help with the drainage.

Melon seedlings will require plenty of water to ‘fuel’ their vigorous growth, but you don’t want to attract fungal infections through over-watering. The extra drainage will help to reduce this.

Fill the pots/modules to between half and three quarters full, then using a dibber - or something similar - make a hole in the compost about 1 inch deep – one hole in each container. Now place 2 - 3 melon seeds in each hole, cover with compost and gently water in. To help with germination they will need to be moved to a warm sunny windowsill, preferably above a radiator. Allow the soil to become almost dry before further watering.

After a couple of weeks the seed will begin to show signs of germination. As mentioned before, young melon plants will require plenty of water and nutrition to grow, so feed them regularly with a 50% strength liquid fertilizer. Just make sure that they are never left waterlogged otherwise root damage and fungal infections can occur. At this time you can remove the weakest seedling so that only the strongest remains.

Once the threat of late frosts are over the melon seedlings can be planted outside into their final position but they will need to be hardened off for at least a week or two before hand. They will do best in a sunny, protected position with a slightly acid soil with a pH of between 6.0 and 6.5.

Remember that because of their origins Melons are cold-sensitive so keep an eye on both air and soil temperatures before planting out. They will prefer growing temperatures of between 70° and 80° F, but if cold weather does threaten the young melon plants would do well to have some kind of protection such as a mini poly-tunnel or cloche. If practical, they would benefit from being planted into a temporary cold-frame which could be removed during the heat of the summer.

HOW TO GROW WATERMELON PLANTS FROM SEED OUTDOORS





Watermelons have been grown for their deliciously sweet flesh for over 3000 years. Believed to have originated in southern Africa, the popularity of this fruit has seen it spread across the globe.

History tells us that by the 10th century AD, watermelons were being cultivated in China, which is today the world's single largest watermelon producer. By the 13th century, Moorish invaders had introduced the fruit to Europe; and, according to John Mariani's The Dictionary of American Food and Drink, 'watermelon' made its first appearance in an English dictionary in 1615.

Direct sowing into the ground is the best way to grow watermelons from seed but for those of us how live in cooler, northern European climate you will need to start your watermelon seed off indoors. This gives the resulting seedlings a fighting chance to produce and ripen their fruit in a much shorter growing period.
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Direct Sowing Watermelon Seed Outdoors
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Unless you are prone to particularly cold winters, the most successful best way to grow watermelon plants from seed is to sow them into prepared seed beds where they will remain for the entire production of the crop.

Mound up a small area of rich, well-drained soil about a 12 – 18 inches diameter and plant three to five seeds in the middle of it, two inches apart and about one inch deep. Water in well and after a couple of weeks the seed should be showing signs of germination. Once the seedlings are showing two sets of true leaves, thin out the weaker ones, leaving the two strongest seedlings to continue growing.
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This is a perfect method for areas where the winters are mild but in cooler climates consider planting melon seed through a black plastic mulch. The dark plastic will absorb heat from the sun, warming the soil early. It will also help to conserve moisture during the growing season, controls weeds and makes harvesting a whole lot easier and cleaner.
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For related articles click onto:

WHAT CAUSES POND WATER TO GO FROTHY?




Froth or foam appearing on the surface of pond water will generally sound alarm bells in the heads of most fish keepers, and rightly so. Its unsightly, man-made quality is a clear sign that there is a water quality problem; even though the main body of water can remain clear and the fish appear perfectly healthy.

Even so, frothy or foamy water should always be regarded as a warning sign which – if left unresolved - can lead to a worsening water conditions which will eventually result in health problems for your fish!

Most ponds with a waterfall or fountain have some foam or froth from normal water agitation and this is perfectly natural. However, as soon as the foam begins to accumulate and spread across your pond, it is time to take action.

There are a number of reasons why this foam can form, but the most common is due to an excess of dissolved organic compounds and notably phosphates. These compounds can arrive from a number of sources including overfeeding, a build-up of fish waste, or decaying plant material. They are also likely to indicate rising levels of ammonia's, nitrates and nitrates which at critical levels can become deadly to your fish.
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Phosphates occur naturally in living and decaying plant and animal remains, and as mineralized compounds in soil, rocks, and sediments. Within a pond the most prominent sources of phosphates will be uneaten fish food, decomposing fish, animals and their faeces. In small amounts, phosphorous may not seem a bad thing as it can produce a boost in plankton and algae, enabling fish to grow larger and faster. However, in larger amounts, phosphorous can make aquatic systems so productive that they can choke themselves out!

While rising levels of phosphates may not be an immediate and serious problem in itself, they are usually closely linked to organic compounds which are. The clue is in it how the phosphates have entered the water which - as mentioned before – is through the breakdown of uneaten fish food, decomposing fish, animals and their faeces. This decomposition links directly to the nitrogen cycle where ammonia, nitrite and nitrates are produced, all of which can have a toxic effect on your fish.
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Ammonia
Ammonia is extremely toxic and even relatively low levels pose a threat to fish health. Ammonia is produced directly from the fish via its gills, decomposing fish food, fish waste and detritus, but in a natural environment - such as a lake or river - it would be immediately diluted to harmless levels. However, in the confines of a pond, ammonia levels can rapidly rise to dangerous levels unless it is constantly removed, usually by biological filtration.
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Nitrites
Nitrite (NO2-) is formed when Nitrosomonas sp. bacteria oxidise ammonia. Although it is less toxic than ammonia, elevated levels will still present a threat to fish health. Prolonged exposure at low levels can lead to stress and is often associated with stress-related disease such as bacterial ulcers and fin-rot. At high levels, skin and gill epithelia can be damaged and opportunistic bacteria and parasites may take advantage of stressed fish. The main danger is from nitrite being actively transported across the gills and into the fish’s bloodstream where it oxidises normal haemoglobin into methemoglobin. Normal haemoglobin picks up oxygen at the gills and transports it to the body tissues where it is exchanged for carbon dioxide. Methemoglobin cannot transport oxygen and therefore - in acute cases - fish will be effectively asphyxiated.
.
At low levels of Nitrate consentration you may find fish rubbing against solid objects. As levels increase fish will become lethargic, but may still swim up to feed. If the fish is suffering from nitrite poisoning, the gills will change from a healthy pinkish/red to a pale tan to dark brown in colour. The fish may also show signs of respiratory distress, i.e gasping at the water surface or hanging around water inlets.
.
Nitrates
Nitrate is considerably less toxic than nitrite, although nitrate levels should not exceed 50mg/litre.
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For related articles click onto:
Diagram courtesy of Outdoor Elements.