The Garden of Eaden: July 2009

GARDENOFEADEN.COM ARTICLES

HOW TO GROW JALAPENO PEPPERS FROM SEED

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This fantastic, spicy South American food crop has never been more popular and by growing your own from seed you can really create those truly authentic dishes inspired by traditional Mexican dishes and regional cuisines now found throughout the United States.

These thick-walled 3 inch long peppers are often harvested green and used in many Mexican dishes. They are best grown in a greenhouse but if you start them off indoors early enough they can also be grown outdoors in the ground without protection.

Sow indoors around January for if you want them to establish quickly for outdoor planting or sow anytime up to the end of March for greenhouse growing.

WHAT ARE THE NATURAL, NATIVE PREDATORS OF VINE WEEVILS

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As garden pests go, the hatred that gardeners have for vine weevils is right up there along with slugs and aphids. But it’s not just the amount damage they cause that is the problem, it is the sneaky way they go about it. The adult vine weevil – in between making a significant number of unsightly, irregular notches in the sides of your plants leaves - lays their eggs in the soil at the base of their preferred plants so that the larvae can munch their way through the root system - completely unnoticed - until your plant topples over in a unrecoverable heap. Unfortunately, not only is often the first symptom you will come across, it is usually far too late to do anything about it.

Although there are a number of effective chemical treatments available, they are all non-specific, able to kill off beneficial pollinating insects such as lacewings, bumble and honey bees just as easily as the vine weevil. You could try leaving the comfort of your home once the sun goes down and traipse about the garden collecting adults with a torch and bag, but there is a far easier way.

In this country however, there are a number of native predators that will make short work of both adult and larval vine weevils, it is just a matter of encouraging them into your garden. The easiest way is to provide a wildlife pond and or log piles. This will attract a number of very useful mammals, amphibians and predatory insects in to the garden which will feed on vine weevils, but it doesn’t stop there as they will also devour other garden pests such as slugs and snails.

Below is a list of the most commonly found native animals which – among other garden pests – will also eat vine weevils.

COMMON FROG

This is perhaps the easiest vine weevil predator to encourage into your garden and all you need is a small pond. Although it’s the most widespread and commonly seen amphibian in the UK, it too is slowly coming under threat from many householders filling in their ponds for safety reasons. Surprisingly, roughly only 5 out of every 2000 eggs manage to survive until adulthood. The reason behind these heavy fatalities is down to their extreme vulnerability during the tadpole and froglet stage as many are eaten by fish, birds and grass snakes. Unfortunately they also have a large number of predators when they are adults including seagulls, stoats, crows, foxes, and cats. To increase their survival rate in your new pond all you need to do is exclude fish, while out the pond they will also need plenty of good cover such as dense foliage or log piles.

COMMON SHREW

For feeding, these busy creatures require plenty of cover, especially long, rough grass. If you suspect that they are nesting in the area its best to just leave them alone because any disturbance near their site - be it a hole or small burrow in the ground - may be enough to cause them to abandon it.

COMMON TOAD

Although spending much more of their time on land, the common toad - like the common frog - will need a body of water in which to breed.

HEDGEHOGS

These fascinating creatures are a great help in the garden eating large numbers of slugs, small snails and weevils. They do however eat beneficial garden beetles but on balance they do more good than harm. It’s important that they have good hibernation sites in which to overwinter, so undisturbed piles of leaves, log piles, brushwood or hibernation boxes under sheds are all fantastic ways in which to encourage them to stay. If you do come across them in the garden, resist the temptation to provide a dish of bread and milk as this can harm their digestion. Instead, plate up a small amount of dog food but don't feed them to much though as they will get lazy and stop foraging for slugs - preferring to wait for their next easy meal.

GROUND BEETLES

These tiny creatures have huge appetites and can eat their way through a surprising amount of slugs when given the chance. Introducing log piles into the garden is a great way to encourage them to stay as the logs are not only ideal for summer nesting sites but also make perfect homes for overwintering.

For more information click on the headings below:

How to Make a Wildlife Pond

How to Recognise Vine Weevil Damage on Plants

Organic Control of Vine Weevils

The Importance of Log Piles to Native Wildlife

HOW TO RECOGNISE VINE WEEVIL DAMAGE ON PLANTS

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As garden pests go, the hatred that gardeners have for vine weevils is right up there along with slugs and aphids. But it’s not just the amount damage they cause that is the problem, it's the sneaky way they go about it. The adult vine weevil – in between making a significant number of unsightly, irregular notches in the sides of your plants leaves - lays their eggs in the soil at the base of their preferred plants. That way, the newly hatched larvae can munch their way through the root system - completely unnoticed - until your plant topples over in an unrecoverable heap. Unfortunately, not only is this often the first symptom you'll come across, it is usually far too late to do anything about it.

If that wasn't enough to worry about, vine weevil larvae will also bore into the tubers, and succulent stem bases of herbaceous plants and - if left uncontrolled - can cause absolute devastation through beloved herbaceous borders.

Vine weevils are not able to survive the cold temperatures of our winters yet every year brings a new infestation, brought into the country on infected container stock. Although one or two weevils by themselves are unable to do much damage, when you consider that all vine weevils are female and each one can produce as many as 1000 larvae over the summer, you can see how quickly a localised infestation can occur.

They are also notoriously difficult to find - even if you do find characteristic bite marks on leaf margins - because the adults are nocturnal, only feeding at night. With container grown stock you can search for their stout, creamy white with brown head larvae by removing rootballs from their pots for inspection. But just because you didn’t see any of these grubs one week, it doesn’t mean that they won’t be there the next.

TYPICAL SYMPTOMS

Clearly, different plants will show slightly different symptoms. Annuals and perennials will often turn yellow and wilt while with hardy nursery stock, the base of the stems will become loose in the ground, although this is usually a more serious problem with pot grown stock. In almost all cases the plants will show at least some of the characteristic notching in the leaf margins.

PLANTS COMMONLY AFFECTED

Bergenia species
Cyclamen
Epimedium species
Euonymous – evergreen species
Heuchera species
Hydrangea species
Photinia species

For more information click onto:
Organic Control of Vine Weevils
What are the Natural, Native Predators of Vine Weevils

NECTAR RICH AMERICAN WILDFLOWERS FOR ATTRACTING NATIVE BUMBLE BEES

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Bees have had a rough time of it over the past few years although with most of the news hitting the headlines is to do with naturalised honey bees and the terrible problems with CCD (Colony Collapse Disorder). However, our native bumblebees have also been suffering population declines and no more so than the specialist, long-tongued bumble bees.

Unlike the honey bee, bumble bee colonies only store enough pollen and honey to last them a few days should poor weather – or even a temporary lack of suitable nectar rich flowering plants - prevent them from foraging for food. This makes them so much more vulnerable than honey bees to food shortages and therefore it’s vitally important for them to secure nesting sites which can provide constant access to nectar-rich plants throughout the spring, summer and autumn.

In order to help develop local populations of bumble bees in your area it is essential to provide a succession of early flowering nectar-rich plants. This is a particularly important resource as it provides food for the queen bumblebees as they emerge in March from their over-winter hibernation. From this point on, the queen must then single-handedly find enough food to mature her eggs, establish a nest, and rear the first batch of workers.

Once the worker bees have matured, they take on the role of searching for nectar and pollen which, is in turn, used to help rear more workers. Towards the end of the season, the queen begins to stop the production of worker bee eggs, and instead eggs are laid to produce male bees and new queens. These new queens will then found their own colonies the following year, but if they are unable to find a nesting site that is able to provide a season long succession of nectar-rich flowers then the colony will fail and the bumble bees will die.

The single most important thing required for the success of a healthy bumble bee colony is this succession of suitable plants that will provide energy rich pollen and nectar for the whole season – it simply cannot be over stated enough. With the continual loss of habitat combined with the over use of systemic insecticides - which kill off both pest insects as well as beneficial pollinating insects - it has now come down to those of us who have a passion for the environment to repair the damage and provide the natural resources that modern farming and gardening practices have taken away from our native bees.

Below is a list of just a few of the pollen rich plants – and their succession flowering times - that could make all the difference to saving declining native bee populations.

SPRING FLOWERING

Arabis blepharophylla. Originating from California, this sweet scented, alpine-like plant has purple-pink flowers ½ inch across which open from March to May. Although hardy across most of America, severe winters can kill it off so it is advisable to give it some protection depending on where you live.

Aquiligia species. There are a number of plants from this family that have their origins in the United States. A. scopulorum - an alpine species - is native to the Rocky Mountains while the border species such as; A. canadensis is from Canada, A. longissima from Mexico and A. caerulea which is more wide ranging throughout the states. Aquiligia flowers will appear any time from May to July.

Lonicera involucrate. A native of Canada and western United States, this deciduous shrubby honeysuckle will produce yellow flowers surrounded by prominent green bracts from May to July. It has an open habit and is suitable for informal hedging with a height and spread of around 6-8ft if kept untrimmed.

Ribes – ornamental or edible fruiting currents – The family of flowering currants provides plenty of reliable performers for the spring garden, blooming every year without any special care needed or to be given. Perhaps the most ornamental variety is 'King Edward VII' which makes a compact, upright plant that drips with dark red flowers. Ribes will thrive in most ordinary, well drained soils in either full sun or light shade. Plants can be left un-pruned, but for the best performance it is worth cutting the branches that have flowered back to a strong pair of buds just after they have bloomed. For best results, top dress with well-rotted farm manure in April. Look out for Ribes aureaum - alternatively known as R. tenuiflorum – which is a native to North America and commonly known as the golden or buffalo current.

SUMMER FLOWERING

Agastache. This is a large family of perennial herbs which – apart from ‘A. rugosa’ - originate from North America. Most species are very upright, 0.5–3 m tall, with stiff, angular stems clothed in toothed-edged, lance shaped leaves ranging from 1–15 cm long and 0.5–11 cm broad depending on the species. Upright spikes of tubular, two-lipped flowers develop at the stem tips in summer. The flowers - which will appear between from June to September - are usually white, pink, mauve, or purple, with the bracts that back the flowers being of the same or a slightly contrasting colour.

Clarkia elegans and pulchella. Both of these varieties are native to the United States preferring a light acid soil in a sunny position. C. elegans is a popular plant from California growing up to 2 ft in height. It will produce flowers approximately 2 inches across from July to September. C. pulchella is erect branching in habit growing to about 18 inches in height. It has lavender semi-double flowers, 1 ½ inches across that are produce don flower spike unto 9 inches long appearing from July to September.

Cosmos. There are two species within this family of annuals which make fantastic plants, both of which are native to Mexico. The first is Cosmos bipinnatus which grows to 3ft in height and can show a range of colours from white to pink through to crimson. The second example is Cosmos sulphurous growing taller at an average height of 3ft. Its leaves are of a darker green while its flowers are borne yellow on long stems. Both plants prefer a light and rather poor soil and will usually need staking once the flower stems reach full height. However this will not be necessary if they are grown in an established mixed boarder. Both species will flower from August until September.

Delphinium cardinale. A native to California, this hardy perennial with its deeply dissected mid green leaves makes a stunning show in any garden. With its, bright red, cupped shaped flowers that appear on loose racemes in July to August it almost looks tropical in nature.
Eschscholzia species. More commonly known as the Californian poppy, this hardy annual is already a popular addition in many gardens. A native of Western America, Eschscholzia has blue/green, finely cut leaves which act as a fantastic backdrop to the striking burned orange flowers which appear in profusion from June to October. Eschscholzia are easy to grow, and excellent for use as an informal edging plant or within a rockery.

Helianthus – sunflower. The popular sunflower is indigenous throughout the United States. Although we are more familiar today with the tall growing giants, most of the native plants will only grow between 1 ½-3ft. They are easy to grow preferring a sunny position and have flowering times between July and October

Liatris species. There are a number of forms all native to the United States, but the commonly available are L. callilepis. L graminifolia and L. spicata. They are all hardy perennials which grow to around 2-3ft in height. These prefer a sunny position and will tolerate a range of soils. L. spicata will prefer damp, boggy soils while L graminifolia likes to kept on the dry side. They will provide pink flower spikes up to 12 inches long any time between July and September.

Lonicera sempervirens. This evergreen/semi-evergreen – depending on how cold it gets - is a vigorous climbing shrub that can reach up to 20ft or more. Commonly known as the ‘Trumpet Honeysuckle’ this native to the southern United States will produce 2-3 inch long flowers that are scarlet on the outside and an orange/yellow on the inside in June and August.

Monarda species – so popular are plants from this family with bees that its common name is known as Bee Balm. This native of North America has very distinctive flower-heads with each one consists of a large number of curving tubular flowers growing out from a central point. As the flowers mature they create a shaggy and characteristic dome of petals. The plant has a long flowering season, from early summer to early autumn, and blooms almost continuously if deadheaded periodically. It prefers a free-draining yet moist soil in full sun although it can tolerate semi shade.

Polemonium carneum – Western United States: P. Foliosissimum – the Rocky Mountains: P.reptans – North America. Commonly known as ‘Jacobs Ladder’ Polemonium species will tolerate most garden soils in a sunny or partially shaded position. Polemonium carneum will grow up to about 2ft, flowering blue or white on racemes from April to July. P. foliosissimum is a taller species growing around 3ft in height and produced mauve-blue flowers from early June to September. P.reptans is the smallest in the group growing 18-24 inches in height, producing wide, bright blue flowers from May to June.

Rubus odoratus. A native to eastern North America, this vigorous deciduous shrub has a spread of 4-5 ft and a height of between 6-8ft. If has these wonderful, velvety, vine-shaped leaves and will produce fragrant, purple/rose flowers from June until August. Rubus will prefer any ordinary, well-drained soil in sun or partial shade.

Salvia species. There are a number of species within this family that are native to North America. The most common of these will be S. farinacae – Texas, although there are a number from South America such as Salvia splendens, and the popular Salvia spathulifolium – western United States. Salvia farinacae will grow to a height of 2ft bearing white flowers in July and August. They will grow in most soils, preferably in an open, sunny site.

Sidalcea malvifolia. A native of the western United States, Sidalcea malvifolia is a popular species which has now been superseded by many more colourful variations. It will grow to a height of between 12-18 inches, and will produce pink, funnel-shaped flowers from June to September. Sidalcea malvifolia will grow in any ordinary, free-draining soil preferably in an open, sunny site.

Verbena bonarienses. This native to South America can grow to a height of up to 4-5ft. It is already a popular perennial which can even flower in its first season if the seeds are sown early enough. Its tall branched stems bear tight clusters of rose-lavender flower heads which are produced from June to October.

Zinnia elegans. A native to Mexico, this brightly coloured daisy like flower grows to about 2 ½ ft in height. This species plant has showy purple flowers 2 ½ inches across which appear from July to September however there is a wide range of different coloured hybrids also available.

AUTUMN FLOWERING

Aster ericoides. This is one of the few native North American asters out of a very large family. Although the wild species will flower white, or white tinged with pink there are some cultivated varieties such as ‘Blue Star- pale blue and ‘Ringdove’ – pale rose-mauve. Aster ericoides will flower between September and October.

Aster novae–angliae (Michealmas daisy). This is a very popular flowering aster originating from North America although the original species has been superseded by numerous cultivated varieties. They can come in single, semi-double and double forms with a wide range of hues from pink to blue and red to purple. The flowers can be as large as 2 inches across appearing from September to October.

Helenium autumnale. This hardy perennial is a native to Canada. It will grow to a height of up to 4-5ft and will provide bold yellow flowers from August until October. For best results, plant pot-grown specimens between October and April, and preferably in a sunny position. They are perfectly happy growing in any ordinary soil but may they need support in an exposed position unless they are growing within an established herbaceous border.

Rudbekia species. There are around 25 hardy annuals and herbaceous perennials within this genus found throughout most of the American continent. Ranging in height from 2-6ft most will produce flowers within the yellow to deep orange spectrum which will appear anytime from July to October. Rudbeckias will grow in any ordinary, free-draining soil preferably in an open, sunny site.

Solidago species. This genus of hardy, herbaceous perennials is native to eastern Canada and eastern United States. Depending on the species they will grow between 6 inches and 3ft in height producing yellow flowers between August and October. They will tolerate any ordinary soil, in full sun to semi shade. The taller varieties may require staking, but only to half the plants full height.

For more information click onto:

Bees and Biodiversity

British Birds of Paradise

Bumble Bees and the American Farmer

Can you Keep Honey Bees in the Garden?

Edible Crop Pollination and the Decline of Bees

Fall in Bee Populations Linked to Decline in Plant Biodiversity

How to Attract Bumblebees to the Suburban Garden

How to Make a Wildlife Pond

Light Pollution and the Decline of Native Insects

Nectar Rich Plants for Attracting Long-Tongued Bumble Bees

Pesticides Toxic to Honey Bees

Plants for Autumn Colour

Seed Bearing Plants for Attracting Wild Finches

What can we do to Help Save the Rainforests

What is 'Slash and Burn' Farming and How does it Affect the Rainforests?

Which Plants can Attract Bats into the Garden?

Why are Tropical Rainforests so Important?

Why Should we Protect the Rainforest?

ORGANIC CONTROL OF GREY MOULD ON TOMATO PLANTS

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Grey mould is a common fungal disease that can affect many plants; however it can become quite a serious problem on tomato plants especially if they are grown under protected conditions environment such as those provide by a greenhouse. Once established in a protected environment, grey mould can be difficult to bring under control and it may in fact remain present within the environment all year round. If left uncontrolled, grey mould will eventually kill off the plants.

Cause: Initial contamination is usually from wind carried fungal spores which infect the host tomato plant through a point of damage such as insect damage, decaying plant tissue or pruning wounds. Grey mould prefers cool and humid conditions. Unfortunately these conditions will also stress the tomato plants, making them further susceptible to the disease.

Symptoms: The most characteristic symptom of a grey mould infection is a grey-brown furry mould, usually first noticed on shrivelled buds and flowers. The infection can spread rapidly – especially under damp/humid conditions and when shaken, clouds of spores are released from these infected areas. The infected areas can expand rapidly covering whole stems, leaves or petals. If left to their own devices these stem infections can ‘ring’ the whole stem and cause the plants above the infected area to wilt and die. More importantly, fungus growing on infected petals may transfer onto the fruit, leaving it inedible.

Treatment: Control of Grey Mould is all about maintaining healthy growing conditions and that means a dry, well ventilated environment. To begin with you will need to reduce the risk of spreading the disease on to other plants and so to start with, increase ventilation as best as you can and only water the plants in the mornings, and as you do so, try to stop water from touching the foliage. This will reduce humidity through the day slowing the spread and growth of new spores. Prune lower, lateral stems regularly and remove any old or dense foliage leaves as this will also improve air movement through the plants. Spray with a sulphur based fungicide for chemical control which may need to be re-applied every 7 days. However if the growing conditions are not suitably improved the infection will inevitably return.

For an organic cultural control of ‘Grey Mould’ take the following steps:

1.Cut out and remove any parts of the plant showing signs of infection.

2.Remove all plant debris from the previous crop – as this is an obvious carrier for dormant 'Grey mould’ spores that can infect the following crop. This debris should be either burned or disposed of well away from other similar crops.

3.Cover the ground below your tomatoes with either plastic sheeting or some other non-porous substitute. This will act as an effective barrier for re-infection by preventing the grey mould fungal spores from surviving in the soil and become a source of infection for the next crop.

4.If you are growing your tomatoes under protection, such as a greenhouse, wash down the walls and floors after each crop.

5.Make sure that you have adequate ventilation. If you do not, consider using fans to help move air within the greenhouse.

6.Reduce your planting density and remove the older, lower leaves from the tomato plants once the first fruits have started to swell as this will allow good air movement between the plants preventing the high humidity needed for infection.

7.Try to avoid wetting the main bulk of the plant when watering and certainly never spray your crops in the afternoon or at any time when the weather is such that the plants will be unable to properly dry out.

For more information click onto:

Blight Resistant Tomatoes

Clubroot on Brassicas

Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes

Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants

How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants

How to Control Greenhouse Whitefly on Tomato Plants

How to Control Leaf Miner on Tomato Plants
How to Grow Tomatoes
How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed

How to Grow Tomato Seed
How to Grow Tomatoes

Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants

What is Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes?

How to Control Mosaic Virus on Tomato Plants

Organic and Wildlife Gardening

Organic Control of Codling Moth
Tomato Blight
Tomato Plants from Seed
What is Damping Off Disease?

WHAT CAUSES BLUE HYDRANGEAS TO TURN PINK?

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Out of all the hydrangeas available today perhaps the most popular with English gardeners are the macrophylla cultivars. Although they come in a variety of colours from rose-pink to white and even to a deep red, it is the almost cobalt-blue flowering forms that really capture the imagination.

Unfortunately there can be a catch with these glorious blue specimens because if you soil isn’t right, the stunning blue colouration – the very reason why you bought this plant - can slowly fade away, eventually to be replaced by a rather ordinary pink.This can be a common problem and it is all down to the acidity or to be more accurate - the alkalinity of the soil. If your soil is alkaline in nature then almost all the blue varieties will turn pink or even a reddish-purple colour. However it will also work the other way round because on acid -or even neutral soils - the pink forms can turn blue or purple.

The easiest way to prevent this colour change from happening to your blue hydrangeas is to plant them directly into an ericaceous compost mix and then - if you are watering them in a hard water area - feed with an acidic food such as Miracid or Sequestrien.

In alkaline soils, plants from the Ericaceae family – of which the hydrangea is not a member - have difficulties in taking up iron and magnesium from the soil through the roots. This is typified by characteristic interveinal yellowing - known as chlorosis - as both iron and manganese are vital for the formation of chlorophyll pigments within the leaves. This characteristic patterning shown by chlorosis is because the chlorophyll pigment found in the vascular bundles – the leaf veins – will remain unaffected for longer periods than chlorophyll pigment found in the cells between the vascular bundles. Also, because of the low mobility of iron within the plant and relatively higher concentrations within older leaves due to the formation of iron binding proteins, leaf discolouration is far more prevalent in the new, juvenile leaves found near to the growing points. This will also be experienced in hydrangeas growing in alkaline soil and in extreme cases newly formed leaves can grow through almost pure white in colour.

Although the modern gardener has various products with which they can help acidify the soil around the root ball to relieve this problem is was a different matter going back a century or so to the Victorian gardener. During the latter end of the 19th Century it was common practice for Victorian gardeners to plant their hydrangeas with a healthy mix of rusty nails or old horse shoes. Both of which were made from iron an essential ingredient for the soils nutritional balance. So rather than fix the acidity problem, they instead over loaded the soil with the nutrients that the plants were struggling with.

Today, pink – but originally blue - hydrangeas can be treated by spraying the leaves with soluble iron foliar feeds every 2 -4 weeks or by lowering the soil pH. This is achieved by applying chelates, ferrous sulphate, aluminum sulphate, or sulfur to the soil surface and allowing them to dissolve into the soil by watering and rainfall. At the very least, use soluble, acidic plant fertilisers such as Miracid or Seqestrian as a weekly liquid feed. Be aware though that it will take weeks and not days for the effects to show through.

For further reading click onto:

What are Mycorrhizal Fungi?

What are Plant Macronutrients and Micronutrients?

What are Plant Nutrients?

What is Chlorosis?

WHAT IS CHLOROSIS?

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Chlorosis is a common term used to describe symptoms of uniform yellowing of leaves. It may be caused by any number of stresses and although it can affect many plant families is is most commonly seen in acid loving plants - generally known as ericaceous but this is not strictly accurate - such as Rhododendrons, camelias Pieris, and Liquidamber.

In alkaline soils, plants from the Ericaceae family have difficulties in taking up iron and magnesium from the substrate through the roots. This is typified by the characteristic inter-veinal yellowing - known as chlorosis - as both iron and manganese are vital for the formation of chlorophyll pigments within the leaves.

This characteristic patterning is a direct response to these specific nutrient deficiencies and occurs because the chlorophyll pigment found in the vascular bundles – the leaf veins – will remain unaffected for longer periods than chlorophyll pigment found in the cells between the vascular bundles.

Also, because of the low mobility of iron within the plant and relatively higher concentrations within older leaves due to the formation of iron binding proteins, leaf discolouration is far more prevalent in the new, juvenile leaves found near to the growing points. In extreme cases newly formed leaves can grow through almost pure white in colour.

Chorosis can be treated by spraying the leaves with soluble iron foliar feeds every 2 -4 weeks or by lowering the soil pH. This is achieved by applying chelates, ferrous sulphate, aluminum sulphate, or sulfur to the soil surface and allowing them to dissolve into the soil by watering and rainfall. At the very least, use soluble, acidic plant fertilisers such as Miracid or Seqestrian as a weekly liquid feed. Be aware that it will take weeks and not days for the effects to show through.

For more information click onto:

How do I find out my Soil Type?
How to Grow Comfrey

How to Harden Off Seedlings

How to Make Liquid Fertilizer from Comfrey

How to Use Comfrey as an Organic Fertilizer

What are Plant Macronutrients and Micronutrients?

What are Plant Nutrients?

What Causes Blue Hydrangeas to Turn Pink?

What is an Epiphyte?
What is Cork Made of?
What is Fibre?
What is Frankincense?
What is Gluten?
What is Homeostasis?
What is Horticulture?
What is Poison Oak?
What is Pricking out?
What is a Prune?
What is Seed Dormancy?

WHAT ARE THE NATURAL PREDATORS OF PLANT LICE?

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Aphids are probably the most successful - and as such perhaps the most hated - of all the garden pests. Commonly known as ‘plant lice’ or green/black and whitefly in the United Kingdom, aphids can rapidly colonise the soft tissue parts of many ornamental and edible plants reducing their vigour, and productivity. Aphids can also act as a host for transferring viral and bacterial disease.

With many plant pests you can usually get away with a 'live and let live' attitude as the affect plant - so long as it was reasonably healthy in the first place - will usually grow through any low level damage with no long term effect. Unfortunately when it comes to aphids, if they left to their own devices, the colonised part of the plants will become stunted and withered, and in extreme cases the whole plant may die.

For those wishing to garden organically there are a number of ‘natural sprays’ that you can either ‘buy off the shelf’ or concoct yourself, but there is always the risk of killing off beneficial insects in the process. The truly 'organic way is to call to your plants defences those naturally occurring, native predators who would like nothing more than to get their pincer-like mandibles into a plump, and juicy aphid. The three most commonly occurring native predators are listed below.

LADYBIRDS

Ladybirds - also known as ‘ladybugs’ – are one of the more easily identifiable aphid predators and can eat over 5000 aphids (or other soft body insects) during their lifetime which is usually about a year. Surprisingly there are about 42 species found in the UK, and although most have the common red and black colouration you will find there are other combinations such as yellow with black spots, and white with black spots.

It is not just the adult ladybird that seems to have an almost insatiable appetite for aphids their larvae will also forage aggressively for aphids.

Adult Ladybirds lay up to 50 yellow Ladybird eggs per day on the undersides of leaves. This equates to up to 1500 eggs in their lifetime although some of the eggs are infertile, thought to be used as a food source for juvenile ladybird larvae.

Most ladybird varieties are excellent predators of pest insects and can usually be found in the garden from March to October.

LACEWINGS

Lacewings are common insects in British gardens and are easy to recognise by their transparent lace-like wings, which are nearly twice as long as the abdomen. Although adult lacewings feed only on pollen and nectar, their larvae will voraciously attack almost any prey they can fit in their mouths although they seem to have a preference for aphids, other soft-bodied insects and their eggs. In fact the adults will seek out areas of honey dew - the sugary solution excreted by aphids - in order to find suitable places for laying their eggs.

Lacewing larvae have unusual sucking mouthparts made up of a pair of extremely long, slender and conspicuous mandibles – jaws - that curve forward from the front of the head. These mandibles are tubular in structure, like a pair of hypodermic needles, and are sunk into their preys body and then used to suck out the bodily fluids.

Lacewings can be encouraged to remain in your garden by providing homes for their winter hibernation. That way they will be ready to lay their eggs and help to control your aphids when they emerge from hibernation in the spring.

HOVERFLIES

Hoverflies are easily recognised by their generally bright colours and hovering ability. They use bright colours so as to mimic wasp colouration to avoid attack by birds and other predators. While the adult hoverflies will spend much of their life on flowers, feeding on pollen and nectar, their well camouflaged larvae will go largely unnoticed as they crawl over foliage in search of their aphid prey.

Over 250 species have been recorded in the UK, and in fact more than 85 species have been found in a single garden. You can expect to see adult hoverflies between March and early November.

For further information click onto:

How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants
How to get rid of Aphids on Roses

How to Make a Natural and Organic Insecticide for Aphids

How to Make your Own Organic Pyrethrum Insecticide

Organic and Wildlife Gardening

Organic Control of Aphids on Roses

Which Plants Attract Aphid Predators to the Garden?

APHIDS AND THEIR NATURAL PREDATORS

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LADYBIRDS

It is not just the adult ladybird that seems to have an almost insatiable appetite for aphids their larvae will also forage aggressively for aphids.

Most ladybird varieties are excellent predators of pest insects and can usually be found in the garden from March to October.

LACEWINGS

HOVERFLIES

Over 250 species have been recorded in the UK, and in fact more than 85 species have been found in a single garden. You can expect to see adult hoverflies between March and early November.

For further information click onto:

How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants

How to Make a Natural and Organic Insecticide for Aphids
How to Make your Own Organic Pyrethrum Insecticide

Organic and Wildlife Gardening

Organic Control of Aphids on Roses
What are the Natural Predators of Plant Lice?

Which Plants Attract Aphid Predators to the Garden?

HOW TO CONTROL BLACKFLY ON TOMATO PLANTS

CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP

Because of its origins in South America, the tomato plant has very few natural pests here in Great Britain, although it will suffer the scourge of common glasshouse pests if they are grown under protection. In fact, you are far more likely to experience problems when growing under glass or in a grow bag than you will ever get when growing directly into well prepared soil.

Blackfly belong to the aphid family and if left to their own devices can turn into a severe infestation stunting the growth of you plants and reducing your tomato crops yield.

Cause: Blackfly are a well known pest insect that can quickly colonise the soft tissue parts of your plant. They damage and weaken the plant by sucking the sap out of pressurised parenchyma cells just below the leave cuticle.

Symptoms: Clusters of these small insects are readily identifiable, normally at the plants tips or on the underside of their leaves. In severe cases, the infected parts can begin to wither due to the quantity of sap being removed from that area. The foliage can become sticky and may show signs of a harmless, black mould called sooty mould.

Treatment: There are many chemical treatments available including a number of organic, but all of these must be applied at the first signs of infection to achieve the best results. Try applying contact insecticides such as pyrethrum, derris or soft soap solutions as these are the best option for organic gardeners. Alternatively you can try planting 'companion plants' to help draw in natural aphid preditors.

For more information click onto:
Aphids and their Natural Preditors
Blight Resistant Tomatoes
Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes
Common Tomato Pests and Diseases
Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Grey Mould on Tomatoes
How to Control Mosaic Virus on Tomato Plants
How to Grow the Pyrethrum Daisy from Seed
How to Grow Tomatoes?
How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed
How to Grow Tomato Seed
How to get rid of Flies?
Organic Control of Grey Mould on Tomato Plants
Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants
Tomato Soup
What are the Natural Predators of Plant Lice?
What is Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes?
Which Plants Attract Aphid Predators to the Garden?

HOW TO CONTROL GREENHOUSE WHITEFLY ON TOMATO PLANTS

CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP

Because of its origins in South America, the tomato plant has very few natural pests here in Great Britain although it will suffer the scourge of common glasshouse pests if they are grown under protection. In fact, you are far more likely to experience problems when growing under glass or in a grow bag than you will ever get when growing directly into well prepared soil.

Whitefly are a well known pest of protected crops and if left to their own devices can smother and eventually kill off the host plants.

Cause: Greenhouse whiteflies are a well known pest insect on protected crops and can quickly colonise the soft tissue parts of your plant. They damage and weaken the plant by sucking the sap out of pressurised parenchyma cells just below the leave cuticle.

Symptoms: Like aphids, whiteflies have piercing-sucking mouthparts so the damage caused is very similar to that of aphids. Direct damage to tomato plants can cause deformed new growth and wilting, chlorotic leaves. Whiteflies can also transmit some plant viruses, so if your plant becomes infected, immediately remove and destroy. Also like aphids, whiteflies secrete honeydew, upon which an unsightly - yet harmless - sooty mould will grow on. Feeding by whiteflies can also cause deformed fruit and discoloration of your tomatoes.

Treatment: There are many chemical treatments available including a number of organic, but all of these must be applied at the first signs of infection to achieve the best results. Try applying contact insecticides such as pyrethrum, derris or soft soap solutions as these are the best option for organic gardeners.

Perhaps the most commonly used organic method is the biological control of whitefly by its natural predator Encarsia formosa. This parasitic wasp attacks the whitefly by depositing an egg within the host body then, after about 10 days, the parasitized host will turn brown as wasp pupation occurs. After another 10 days the emerging adult wasp will appear and will, in turn, parasitize more whiteflies.

For further information click onto:
Aphids and their Natural Preditors
Blight Resistant Tomatoes
Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes
Common Tomato Pests and Diseases
Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Grey Mould on Tomatoes
How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Mosaic Virus on Tomato Plants
How to get rid of Aphids on Roses
How can you get Rid of the Red Lily Beetle?
How to get rid of Flies?
How to Grow Tomatoes?
How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed
How to Grow Tomato Seed
Organic Control of Grey Mould on Tomato Plants
Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants
Tomato Blight
Tomato Plants from Seed
Tomato Soup
What are the Natural Predators of Plant Lice?
What is Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes?
Which Plants Attract Aphid Predators to the Garden?

ORGANIC SEEDS WITH THE ROYAL CONNECTION

CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP

Organic gardening as a concept has never been more popular or more widely understood, and with the dramatic changes in the way that our food has been produced over the past 60 years - such as the used of indiscriminate insecticides and genetic modification – it’s no wonder that more and more people are looking at growing their own fresh produce. Together with a spate of recent food scares - combined with increases in population obesity - the importance of safe, good quality food has become a priority for anyone who has a passion for what they eat.

Although the convenience of packet seeds can be found throughout the world, the practices used in their production are generally unknown and sometimes questionable, so how can you guarantee that the seeds you are using to provide food for your family and loved ones are not only completely safe but are also grown and packaged using organic and sustainable practices.

Here in the United Kingdom, His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales is a well known lover of plants and holder of the Royal Horticultural Societies most prestigious award, the ‘Victoria Medal of Honour’. It was down to his belief in the advantages of organic farming - which also helps in the regeneration and protection of the countryside and wildlife - that motivated Charles, Prince of Wales into creating the Duchy Originals company in 1990 - named after the Duchy of Cornwall estates that are held in trust by the Prince of Wales – in order to promote the highest quality of organic food products.

The 'Duchy Originals' company has now released an exclusive range of organic vegetable and herb seeds for the discerning organic gardener. Certified organic by the Soil Association and guaranteed by the Thompson and Morgan Seed Company (Established in 1855), this new seed range comprising of 42 vegetables and herb seeds as well as 9 peas and beans is of the highest quality and a must for any gardener who values the safe history of their food. Featuring many of traditional English kitchen garden varieties, the Duchy Originals ‘Organic Seed Collection’ also has many examples suitable to challenge the more seasoned, knowledgeable gardener.

'Duchy Originals' also donates all profits from the sales of its products to 'The Prince’s Charities Foundation'.

“Soil is primeval, and a living organism – we must treasure it. At Highgrove, I have always practised the art of feeding the soil rather than the plant.”

HRH The Prince of Wales

For more information click onto:

Organic and Wildlife Gardening

HOW TO CONTROL LEAF MINER ON TOMATO PLANTS

CLICK HERE FOR THE NEW 'GARDEN OF EADEN' WEBSITE AND SEED SHOP

Because of its origins in South America, the tomato plant has very few natural pests here in Great Britain although it will suffer the scourge of common glasshouse pests if they are grown under protection. In fact, you are far more likely to experience problems when growing under glass or in a grow bag than you will ever get when growing directly into well prepared soil.

The leaf miner adult - and more specifically the larvae - is one of those pests that can be quite difficult to control on tomatoes irrespective of whether they are grown under protection or not and its all down to their unusual life-cycle.

Cause: Leaf miners are small larvae which burrow in-between the leaf layers. You may also come across small puncture marks on new leaves caused by the adult females during the feeding and oviposition processes. Sometimes this can also result in a stippled appearance on foliage.

Symptoms: Typically the first signs you will come across are white ‘wiggle’ marks in the leaves which is the major form of damage by the larvae, and will result in the destruction of the internal leaf mesophyll. The mine becomes noticeable after about three or four days after oviposition and becomes larger in size as the larva matures. Both leaf mining and the stippling caused by the female adult can greatly reduce the leafs ability to photosynthesise. Extensive mining can also cause premature leaf drop.

Control: Leaf miner are difficult to control using a contact insecticides as they are pretty much out of reach, protected by the leaf membrane. They can be controlled though by a systemic insecticide but then you probably wouldn’t want to risk eating the crop afterwards. This is one of those cases where it may be best to leave them alone - other than picking off and destroying the worst affected parts of the plant. In fact, your tomato plants can have as much as 60% of its foliage affected with leaf miner without affecting the fruit or its growth. After harvesting your crop, you can try double digging the soil where the tomatoes grew as the adult leaf miners experience difficulty in emerging if they are buried. You can try repeating this several times over the winter before re-planting your crops in the late spring.

For further information click onto:
Blight Resistant Tomatoes
Common Insect Pests on Tomatoes
Common Tomato Pests and Diseases
Flea Beetles on Tomato Plants
Grey Mould on Tomatoes
How to Control Blackfly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Greenhouse Whitefly on Tomato Plants
How to Control Mosaic Virus on Tomato Plants
How to Grow Tomatoes
How to Grow Tomatoes
How to Grow Tomatoes
How to get rid of Flies?
Organic Control of Grey Mould on Tomato Plants
How to Grow Tomatoes from Seed
Red Spider Mite on Tomatoes Plants
How to Grow Tomatoes?
Tomato Blight
Tomato Plants from Seed
Tomato Soup
What is Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes?
What is Tomacco?

NECTAR RICH PLANTS FOR ATTRACTING LONG TONGUED BUMBLE BEES

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Want to buy nectar rich plant seeds for attracting bees? Click here to view seed shop.
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Bees have had a rough time of it over the past few years although with most of the news hitting the headlines is to do with naturalised honey bees and the terrible problems with CCD (Colony Collapse Disorder). However, our native bumblebees have also been suffering population declines and no more so than the specialist, long-tongued bumble bees.

Unlike the honey bee, bumble bee colonies only store enough pollen and honey to last them a few days should poor weather – or even a temporary lack of suitable nectar rich flowering plants - prevent them from foraging for food. This makes them so much more vulnerable than honey bees to food shortages and therefore it’s vitally important for them to secure nesting sites which can provide constant access to nectar-rich plants throughout the spring, summer and autumn.

In order to help develop local populations of bumble bees in your area it is essential to provide a succession of early flowering nectar-rich plants. This is a particularly important resource as it provides food for the queen bumblebees as they emerge in March from their over-winter hibernation. From this point on, the queen must then single-handedly find enough food to mature her eggs, establish a nest, and rear the first batch of workers.

Once the worker bees have matured, they take on the role of searching for nectar and pollen which, is in turn, used to help rear more workers. Towards the end of the season, the queen begins to stop the production of worker bee eggs, and instead eggs are laid to produce male bees and new queens. These new queens will then found their own colonies the following year, but if they are unable to find a nesting site that is able to provide a season long succession of nectar-rich flowers then the colony will fail and the bumble bees will die.

The single most important thing required for the success of a healthy bumble bee colony is this succession of suitable plants that will provide energy rich pollen and nectar for the whole season – it simply cannot be over stated enough. With the continual loss of habitat combined with the over use of systemic insecticides - which kill off both pest insects as well as beneficial pollinating insects - it has now come down to those of us who have a passion for the environment to repair the damage and provide the natural resources that modern farming and gardening practises have taken away from our native bees.

Below is a list of just a few of the pollen rich plants – and their succession flowering times - that could make all the difference to saving declining native bee populations.

SPRING

Chives – This hardy perennial herb is an easy to grow and increases rapidly. Given a warm spring, chives can come into flower as early as the end of April and can last well into June – a time when there are few suitable plants are in flower. Chives will produce these wonderful ornamental flower heads which burst out into spherical clusters of small deep flowers with superb rich nectar – particularly favoured by early bumble bees – making it an extremely valuable, early source of food. Chives thrive in a medium, loamy soil in either full sun or semi shade. Not only will they grow well in most well drained garden soil, they will also do surprisingly well in window boxes should you be short of space or without a garden!

Ajuga –‘Catlans Giant’ – This hardy herbaceous perennial is as tough as old boots and can be planted any time provided the soil isn’t frozen or waterlogged. They are generally trouble free with flowering spikes of deep blue flowers ideal for long tongued specialist bees.

White dead-nettle – Lamium species. Although this is a rather rare native plant to the British Isles, it is under commercial production so availability should be good from most plant retailers. As its name suggests it is similar in look to the common stinging nettle though fortunately, the leaves of this species are soft and not stinging. Its flowers are white, consisting of two lips with a wide-open "mouth" between them, and again are ideal for native long-tongued bees. They will happily survive in poor to medium soils and are suitable in a shaded position. Look out for other plants from the Lamium family as many of them are suitable as nectar rich plants for attracting bees.

Ribes – ornamental or edible fruiting currents – The family of flowering currants provides plenty of reliable performers for the spring garden, blooming every year without any special care needed or to be given. Perhaps the most ornamental variety is 'King Edward VII' which makes a compact, upright plant that drips with dark red flowers. Ribes will thrive in most ordinary, well drained soils in either full sun or light shade. Plants can be left un-pruned, but for the best performance it is worth cutting the branches that have flowered back to a strong pair of buds just after they have bloomed. For best results, top dress with a well-rotted farm manure in April. Look out for Ribes aureaum - alternatively known as R. tenuiflorum – which is a native to North America and commonly known as the golden or buffalo current.

SUMMER

Agastache – another member of the lamium family, this fragrant plant produces upright spikes of tubular, two-lipped flowers develop at the stem tips in summer. The flowers are usually white, pink, mauve, or purple, with the bracts that back the flowers being of the same or a slightly contrasting colour.

Foxgloves - This native European woodland plant is now readily available in many cultivated forms, all of which are attractive to native bees. It is a popular biennial for shaded places, perennial if the flower stems are cut back promptly to prevent self-seeding. They are happy in most good soils but will require a healthy dose of well-rotted farm manure to get the most out of them. With some of the new varieties looking absolute spectacular in flower, they are a must for the ornamental garden, just make sure that they are watered well in dry weather.

.Honeysuckle – This native European climber is an old favourite when it come to pollinating insects, and their rings of curved, almost tubular shaped individual flowers are ideal for long-tongued bees. Plant so the roots are in shade but the stems and flowers can grow out into the sun.

LATE SUMMER – EARLY AUTUMN

Monarda species – so popular are plants from this family with bees that its common name is known as Bee Balm. This native of North America has very distinctive flower-heads with each one consists of a large number of curving tubular flowers growing out from a central point. As the flowers mature they create a shaggy and characteristic dome of petals. The plant has a long flowering season, from early summer to early autumn, and blooms almost continuously if dead-headed periodically. It prefers a free-draining yet moist oil in full sun although it can tolerate semi shade.

Delphiniums - Delphiniums are one of the classic flowers of the traditional summer garden but keep away from the double flowering types are these produce little nectar and are unsuitable for bumble bees and other pollinating insects. Their tall upright spikes laden with intensely-coloured flowers are a feature of herbaceous borders, where they are best grown near the back to add height and drama. Although the flowering season can be relatively short, delphiniums can often be coaxed into producing a few later flowers if the flower spikes are cut down as soon as the blooms are over.
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For more information click onto:
Bees and Biodiversity
British Birds of Paradise
Bumble Bees and the American Farmer
Can you Keep Honey Bees in the Garden?
Edible Crop Pollination and the Decline of Bees
Hardy Exotic Plants for that Tropical Garden Effect
How to Attract Bumblebees to the Suburban Garden
Light Pollution and the Decline of Native Insects
Nectar Rich American Wildflowers for Attracting Native Bumble Bees
Pesticides Toxic to Honey Bees
Seed Bearing Plants for Attracting Wild Finches
Organic and Wildlife Gardening
The Bumble Bee
What can we do to Help Save the Rainforests
What causes Global Warming?
What is Acid Rain?
What is 'Slash and Burn' Farming and How does it Affect the Rainforests?
Why are Tropical Rainforests so Important?
Why Should we Protect the Rainforest?

The Garden of Eaden

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ORGANIC CONTROL OF GREY MOULD ON TOMATO PLANTS

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WHAT IS CHLOROSIS?

WHAT ARE THE NATURAL PREDATORS OF PLANT LICE?

APHIDS AND THEIR NATURAL PREDATORS

HOW TO CONTROL BLACKFLY ON TOMATO PLANTS

HOW TO CONTROL GREENHOUSE WHITEFLY ON TOMATO PLANTS

ORGANIC SEEDS WITH THE ROYAL CONNECTION

HOW TO CONTROL LEAF MINER ON TOMATO PLANTS

NECTAR RICH PLANTS FOR ATTRACTING LONG TONGUED BUMBLE BEES

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